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Cross Threaded Rear Caliper Sliding Pin

5K views 34 replies 14 participants last post by  D.T. 
#1 ·
Well, the title says it all. I changed my pads and bled my system and in replacing the sliding pin, I seem to have cross threaded it into the caliper. As such, it does not seat flush, and the pads are askew on application. Is there a way to save this? I have no experience with a tap/die. I completely removed the caliper and tried to hand thread the pin in to chase out any imperfections but it binds up pretty quick and I fear it will damage more threads. I inspected the pin and unfortunately the thread damage is to the caliper, not the pin. If there is a way to save the caliper threads, and still have integrity in the system, I'm willing to give it a try. Otherwise I'm going to replace the whole caliper.
 
#2 · (Edited)
Yes, this can be fixed. Either by "chasing the threads" with a tap or drilling the hole out and installing a thread repair insert.

The procedure will depend on which caliper bolt is stripped. The retaining bolt for the pads running across the upper back of the caliper, or the caliper mounting bolt at the lower front of the caliper.

Use the bolt to determine the thread size and pitch. Run the tap through the bolt hole from the backside. Be sure that the tap is perpendicular to the hole while starting it in the threads. The check fitment with the bolt. If it seems good use blue Loctite just to be sure.

If you judge the threads as too damaged after chasing the threads with a tap, buy a thread repair kit at an auto parts store. Again using the bolt to identify thread size and pitch.

A pic would be helpful.

There are videos on you-tube explaining how to use a thread insert kit.

If you are near Clover SC come on over and we can do it together. I have all the tools necessary.
 
#5 ·
Yes, this can be fixed. Either by "chasing the threads" with a tap or drilling the hole out and installing a thread repair insert.

The procedure will depend on which caliper bolt is stripped. The retaining bolt for the pads running across the upper back of the caliper, or the caliper mounting bolt at the lower front of the caliper.

Use the bolt to determine the thread size and pitch. Run the tap through the bolt hole from the backside. Be sure that the tap is perpendicular to the hole while starting it in the threads. The check fitment with the bolt. If it seems good use blue Loctite just to be sure.

If you judge the threads as too damaged after chasing the threads with a tap, buy a thread repair kit at an auto parts store. Again using the bolt to identify thread size and pitch.

A pic would be helpful.

There are videos on you-tube explaining how to use a thread insert kit.

If you are near Clover SC come on over and we can do it together. I have all the tools necessary.
Thank you Rick, I wish I did live closer but I am in Virginia! It is the lower caliper mounting bolt, part number 5 in the diagram: 2017 Suzuki DL650XAL7 Rear Caliper | Babbitts Suzuki Parts House 2017 Suzuki DL650XAL7 Rear Caliper | Babbitts Suzuki Parts House

I'll try to ger a pic
 
#3 ·
Font Electric blue Art Circle Brand

Put out a call in a new post to the Strom Troopers for help. List your hometown in the post, along with what you need. Someone close by you could possibly volunteer to help. It's worth a try.

Good Luck!!!
 
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#6 ·
Should be an easy fix. And I think all you may need to do is chase the threads with a tap and use locktite. The threads just hold the pin in place while the forces work on it perpendicular to the bolt holes/threads.

It's going to be your judgment, but the fact that it doesn't go all the way in tells me some threads are undamaged.
 
#10 ·
I'd tend to agree, though I think a case can be made that due to the direction of the forces on this part, it might be ok to repair if (and only if) it torques up correctly after the repair. For me, it'd be more about the required skill and time. I'd just replace it and get back on the road.

Look at it this way: a new caliper is probably still cheaper than having paid someone else to replace your pads and bleed your brakes every time it needs doing.
 
#11 ·
I think I’m going to try the chase method suggested. Here are the best photos I can get without removing the caliper completely:


Nothing wrong here


Pretty sure you can see the first couple threads damaged. Excuse the German Shepard hair.

About as far as I’m willing to crank it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#12 ·
The good news is that the threads can still be seen which gives you good odds of repairing the threads. Even better it'll be relatively easy to throw a helicoil in. Possibly ask a bike shop if they'll do it if you have the bike serviced.

It's a very low stress part. All the thread does is hold that pin in place, there's no real force on the threads.
 
#14 ·
Good photos.

Chase the threads with a tap, come in from the back where the threads are good if possible.

Running a die over the pin's threads wouldn't hurt.

All the threads do is hold the pin in place. Use Loctite, and you are good to go.

It''s OK.
And rest assured that this has nearly happened to me and probably many others. For some reason, that particular pin is very difficult to start straight.
 
#15 ·
Pictures worth a lot of words. That bolt and hole don't look bad at all. That is a guide pin and not a head bolt. The forces on it are sideways, not a pull. Use caution, take your time, use oil on your die and it should be a straight forward repair. If you put a thread sealer on it don't use RED! Use a medium (blue) or light (yellow).
Too bad you are far away. This would be a ten minute job in my (or other well equipped) shop. Its a pretty common fix.
 
#16 ·
The correct term is the load on the pin in is in shear and not torsion.
As Rick directs, clean the threads with a tap from the back side, chase the threads on the pin with a die. It should take all of 5 minutes.
If you're going to do your own maintenance, a small tap and die set in your tool box will save the day. Even pros bugger up a fastener once in a while.
Worry less and ride more.
 
#17 ·
I concur that keeping the pin in place is the primary criteria in this application. You will need to determine the correct designation of the thread you are dealing with. It is not too damaged to make a repair if all goes well. You need to determine the cost of repair vs buy new. We here have approached this like you have a shop full of tools and skills on one hand and your being without recourse on the other.
Your GSD is sorry you did this to yourself and will give you a big wet kiss to make you feel better..:p
 
#18 ·
Boy you are right to stop when you did.Many people would try ,& try & then finally screw that thread up good. The right tap is relatively cheap at an industrial supply store.For your application don’t get a starting tap,nor a bottoming tap.Get a PLUG TAP. Most of my taps I’ve used a vice to crush a nut onto the square (drive) end of tap.Use a socket & ratchet to install tap.Easier (for me at least) to control .And you don’t need to buy a tap handle ! Use some oil to keep stuff clear of old filings.

You can do it! & prolly less tha $10.00.
 
#19 ·
There is likely not a human alive who had installed enough fasteners who has not at one time or another cross threaded something and wacked up a few threads. It happens. Now, I will likely be flamed for this but here is a dose of reality, something I taught my students about assembly things: If you damage the threads...its your own fault. (I know...In my life I have damaged my share!) But I learned a lesson long ago after fixing too many of my own mistakes. When screwing anything together, bolt, nut, screw or fitting (pipe, brake line, etc,) make sure it will easily screw together my hand before any tool is applied to it. If you start a bolt, line, screw, etc. by and and screw it together by hand you will NEVER strip a thread. Its just impossible unless your name is Clark Kent. If a fastener or fitting is too tight to start and screw at least part way in by hand then STOP. Take it apart and fix what is wrong. Most likely the threads are dirty/rusty or you just got it "started" crooked. Either way if you force it together something bad will happen.
You can buy inexpensive tap and die sets at Harbor Freight, Amazon, etc. (About $22 for a full metric set at HF, or $43 for a metric and US set). They are good enough to clean up threads and in this capacity will last you for years.Keep them clean, keep a light coat of oil on them and be sure to use some oil when using them. Turn them in a turn or two and them back them up a turn. This will help clean out the hole. Do the hole and the fastener. When you are done they should easily screw together by hand and you will likely never again suffer stripped threads.
Now....flame away.....
 
#26 ·
There is likely not a human alive who had installed enough fasteners who has not at one time or another cross threaded something and wacked up a few threads. It happens. Now, I will likely be flamed for this but here is a dose of reality, something I taught my students about assembly things: If you damage the threads...its your own fault. (I know...In my life I have damaged my share!) But I learned a lesson long ago after fixing too many of my own mistakes. When screwing anything together, bolt, nut, screw or fitting (pipe, brake line, etc,) make sure it will easily screw together my hand before any tool is applied to it. If you start a bolt, line, screw, etc. by and and screw it together by hand you will NEVER strip a thread. Its just impossible unless your name is Clark Kent. If a fastener or fitting is too tight to start and screw at least part way in by hand then STOP. Take it apart and fix what is wrong. Most likely the threads are dirty/rusty or you just got it "started" crooked. Either way if you force it together something bad will happen.
You can buy inexpensive tap and die sets at Harbor Freight, Amazon, etc. (About $22 for a full metric set at HF, or $43 for a metric and US set). They are good enough to clean up threads and in this capacity will last you for years.Keep them clean, keep a light coat of oil on them and be sure to use some oil when using them. Turn them in a turn or two and them back them up a turn. This will help clean out the hole. Do the hole and the fastener. When you are done they should easily screw together by hand and you will likely never again suffer stripped threads.
Now....flame away.....
Hans nailed it!! Well said!!
 
#25 ·
Just got the tap/die yesterday. Ran the die over the pin to clean up the threads and it looks good. The size and pitch is 12mm x 1.25 if anyone else needs to know. I bought a bolt and nut from the hardware store of same size for testing and the nut spun all the way to the base of the pin with no issue. I will be tackling the caliper tomorrow since I have the day off, and I'm leaning toward completely removing the caliper because I'm prone to be ham-fisted and its a tight squeeze in there with the stock muffler and the tire hugger I installed. Brake fluid is cheap enough and easy to flush.

Today is for football, GO BILLS!
 
#27 ·
Success! But I’m glad I removed the caliper completely to do this. I’m sure others would have had an easier time, but my abilities are limited. The threads run all the way through the caliper so the tap was easy to start from the rear. I used a TON of cutting fluid. Nice easy turns, backing it out every so often to remove debris, worked like a charm. According to a chart I found on the forum the pin should torque to 16.5 lb-ft, I set it to 15 while still on the bench just out of caution, no issues. Bumped it to just below 17 on my wrench, added loctite to the threads, tightened it up. Seems good to go. I will take some nice easy test rides around the neighborhood and use the rear as much as possible, then check the torque again. Thank you all for the help/suggestions.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#28 ·
My only comment. Locktite will lubricate the threads a little. Therefore, I recommend next time you remove this pin you drop the torque value 15% to 20% from spec when reinstalling.

It’s not worth it to correct now.

Good job!
 
#31 ·
Only a comment. The older DL 650's had a threaded plug sits on top of that pin. Those were a PITA because they'd rust in place and you'd tear up the slot in them getting them out.
I brought 20 small round neodymium magnets and drop them on top of the brake bolts now. They stay in place, stop dirt and water from getting in and making those bolts hard to remove.
AND confuse the hell out of dealer mechanics. (Win win right :))

Looks like the design changed at some point to avoid that problem but for those of us with older bikes it's a useful trick.
 
#33 ·
That plug and pin are still on the V3, it’s what holds the pads in place. It’s at the back of the caliper closest to the muffler. I was fortunate and didn’t screw that up! The bolt/pin I messed up is at the front of the caliper. If you go back to post #5 you’ll see the exploded view of the setup. You are referring to parts #s 7 & 8, I messed up part #5. But I like your idea, it took me a minute to realize I needed a flat blade screwdriver!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#32 ·
Good lesson learned here. So many of us have made the same type of mistake, its all too common. But, my grandma use to tell us: "Its only a bad thing if you don't learn from it". So its not so bad, is it? You got it fixed with just a little work and a small expense. That tap is a very common size and its likely you may well use it again in the future just to clean up a dirty bolt hole or something. Even if you never need it the cost of buying it and what you learned was a small price to pay to fix the bike and increase your knowledge and skills. Not to mention doing this yourself saved you a lot of money! Hopefully others who read this thread will also learn from the discussion and benefit from this experience.
Everyone wins!
 
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