Cross Threaded Rear Caliper Sliding Pin

3618 Views 34 Replies 14 Participants Last post by D.T., 4 mo ago

Rustlr63

Discussion Starter · 5 mo ago

Well, the title says it all. I changed my pads and bled my system and in replacing the sliding pin, I seem to have cross threaded it into the caliper. As such, it does not seat flush, and the pads are askew on application. Is there a way to save this? I have no experience with a tap/die. I completely removed the caliper and tried to hand thread the pin in to chase out any imperfections but it binds up pretty quick and I fear it will damage more threads. I inspected the pin and unfortunately the thread damage is to the caliper, not the pin. If there is a way to save the caliper threads, and still have integrity in the system, I'm willing to give it a try. Otherwise I'm going to replace the whole caliper.

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richlandrick

· #2 · 5 mo ago (Edited)

Yes, this can be fixed. Either by "chasing the threads" with a tap or drilling the hole out and installing a thread repair insert.

The procedure will depend on which caliper bolt is stripped. The retaining bolt for the pads running across the upper back of the caliper, or the caliper mounting bolt at the lower front of the caliper.

Use the bolt to determine the thread size and pitch. Run the tap through the bolt hole from the backside. Be sure that the tap is perpendicular to the hole while starting it in the threads. The check fitment with the bolt. If it seems good use blue Loctite just to be sure.

If you judge the threads as too damaged after chasing the threads with a tap, buy a thread repair kit at an auto parts store. Again using the bolt to identify thread size and pitch.

A pic would be helpful.

There are videos on you-tube explaining how to use a thread insert kit.

If you are near Clover SC come on over and we can do it together. I have all the tools necessary.

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Big Boy

· #3 · 5 mo ago

Put out a call in a new post to the Strom Troopers for help. List your hometown in the post, along with what you need. Someone close by you could possibly volunteer to help. It's worth a try.

Good Luck!!!

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Reactions: 1

TinMan88

· #4 · 5 mo ago

Rustlr63 said:
Well, the title says it all. I changed my pads and bled my system and in replacing the sliding pin, I seem to have cross threaded it into the caliper. As such, it does not seat flush, and the pads are askew on application. Is there a way to save this? I have no experience with a tap/die. I completely removed the caliper and tried to hand thread the pin in to chase out any imperfections but it binds up pretty quick and I fear it will damage more threads. I inspected the pin and unfortunately the thread damage is to the caliper, not the pin. If there is a way to save the caliper threads, and still have integrity in the system, I'm willing to give it a try. Otherwise I'm going to replace the whole caliper.

Pick up the phone and buy a new caliper. It comes in a clean box.
See BigBoy above👆

Reactions: 1

Rustlr63

Discussion Starter · #5 · 5 mo ago

richlandrick said:
Yes, this can be fixed. Either by "chasing the threads" with a tap or drilling the hole out and installing a thread repair insert.

The procedure will depend on which caliper bolt is stripped. The retaining bolt for the pads running across the upper back of the caliper, or the caliper mounting bolt at the lower front of the caliper.

Use the bolt to determine the thread size and pitch. Run the tap through the bolt hole from the backside. Be sure that the tap is perpendicular to the hole while starting it in the threads. The check fitment with the bolt. If it seems good use blue Loctite just to be sure.

If you judge the threads as too damaged after chasing the threads with a tap, buy a thread repair kit at an auto parts store. Again using the bolt to identify thread size and pitch.

A pic would be helpful.

There are videos on you-tube explaining how to use a thread insert kit.

If you are near Clover SC come on over and we can do it together. I have all the tools necessary.

Thank you Rick, I wish I did live closer but I am in Virginia! It is the lower caliper mounting bolt, part number 5 in the diagram: 2017 Suzuki DL650XAL7 Rear Caliper | Babbitts Suzuki Parts House 2017 Suzuki DL650XAL7 Rear Caliper | Babbitts Suzuki Parts House

I'll try to ger a pic

richlandrick

· #6 · 5 mo ago

Should be an easy fix. And I think all you may need to do is chase the threads with a tap and use locktite. The threads just hold the pin in place while the forces work on it perpendicular to the bolt holes/threads.

It's going to be your judgment, but the fact that it doesn't go all the way in tells me some threads are undamaged.

Reactions: 3

STCorndog

· #7 · 5 mo ago

I would give Ricks recommendation a go. It’s going to be hard to get the tap started straight though.

richlandrick

· #8 · 5 mo ago

And starting the tap straight is critical. I suggest coming at the hole from the backside where the undamaged threads are located. If a bolt of the correct diameter and thread pitch will hand thread into from the back so will a tap.

Reactions: 4

TinMan88

· #9 · 5 mo ago

My position is this is a critical part. If I pooched my caliper, I would dispose of it. That's just me, but it's my life to protect.

Reactions: 1

Improperly Torqued

· #10 · 5 mo ago

TinMan88 said:
My position is this is a critical part. If I pooched my caliper, I would dispose of it. That's just me, but it's my life to protect.

I'd tend to agree, though I think a case can be made that due to the direction of the forces on this part, it might be ok to repair if (and only if) it torques up correctly after the repair. For me, it'd be more about the required skill and time. I'd just replace it and get back on the road.

Look at it this way: a new caliper is probably still cheaper than having paid someone else to replace your pads and bleed your brakes every time it needs doing.

Rustlr63

Discussion Starter · #11 · 5 mo ago

3

I think I’m going to try the chase method suggested. Here are the best photos I can get without removing the caliper completely:

Nothing wrong here

Pretty sure you can see the first couple threads damaged. Excuse the German Shepard hair.

About as far as I’m willing to crank it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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PeteW

· #12 · 5 mo ago

The good news is that the threads can still be seen which gives you good odds of repairing the threads. Even better it'll be relatively easy to throw a helicoil in. Possibly ask a bike shop if they'll do it if you have the bike serviced.

It's a very low stress part. All the thread does is hold that pin in place, there's no real force on the threads.

Reactions: 2

richlandrick

· #13 · 5 mo ago

Good photos.

Chase the threads with a tap, come in from the back where the threads are good if possible.

Running a die over the pin's threads wouldn't hurt.

All the threads do is hold the pin in place. Use Loctite, and you are good to go.

It''s OK.

Reactions: 3

Improperly Torqued

· #14 · 5 mo ago

richlandrick said:
Good photos.

Chase the threads with a tap, come in from the back where the threads are good if possible.

Running a die over the pin's threads wouldn't hurt.

All the threads do is hold the pin in place. Use Loctite, and you are good to go.

It''s OK.

And rest assured that this has nearly happened to me and probably many others. For some reason, that particular pin is very difficult to start straight.

Hans471

· #15 · 5 mo ago

Pictures worth a lot of words. That bolt and hole don't look bad at all. That is a guide pin and not a head bolt. The forces on it are sideways, not a pull. Use caution, take your time, use oil on your die and it should be a straight forward repair. If you put a thread sealer on it don't use RED! Use a medium (blue) or light (yellow).
Too bad you are far away. This would be a ten minute job in my (or other well equipped) shop. Its a pretty common fix.

Reactions: 5

dravnx

· #16 · 5 mo ago

The correct term is the load on the pin in is in shear and not torsion.
As Rick directs, clean the threads with a tap from the back side, chase the threads on the pin with a die. It should take all of 5 minutes.
If you're going to do your own maintenance, a small tap and die set in your tool box will save the day. Even pros bugger up a fastener once in a while.
Worry less and ride more.

Reactions: 2

TinMan88

· #17 · 5 mo ago

I concur that keeping the pin in place is the primary criteria in this application. You will need to determine the correct designation of the thread you are dealing with. It is not too damaged to make a repair if all goes well. You need to determine the cost of repair vs buy new. We here have approached this like you have a shop full of tools and skills on one hand and your being without recourse on the other.
Your GSD is sorry you did this to yourself and will give you a big wet kiss to make you feel better..

Reactions: 1

Marmora

· #18 · 5 mo ago

Boy you are right to stop when you did.Many people would try ,& try & then finally screw that thread up good. The right tap is relatively cheap at an industrial supply store.For your application don’t get a starting tap,nor a bottoming tap.Get a PLUG TAP. Most of my taps I’ve used a vice to crush a nut onto the square (drive) end of tap.Use a socket & ratchet to install tap.Easier (for me at least) to control .And you don’t need to buy a tap handle ! Use some oil to keep stuff clear of old filings.

You can do it! & prolly less tha $10.00.

Hans471

· #19 · 5 mo ago

There is likely not a human alive who had installed enough fasteners who has not at one time or another cross threaded something and wacked up a few threads. It happens. Now, I will likely be flamed for this but here is a dose of reality, something I taught my students about assembly things: If you damage the threads...its your own fault. (I know...In my life I have damaged my share!) But I learned a lesson long ago after fixing too many of my own mistakes. When screwing anything together, bolt, nut, screw or fitting (pipe, brake line, etc,) make sure it will easily screw together my hand before any tool is applied to it. If you start a bolt, line, screw, etc. by and and screw it together by hand you will NEVER strip a thread. Its just impossible unless your name is Clark Kent. If a fastener or fitting is too tight to start and screw at least part way in by hand then STOP. Take it apart and fix what is wrong. Most likely the threads are dirty/rusty or you just got it "started" crooked. Either way if you force it together something bad will happen.
You can buy inexpensive tap and die sets at Harbor Freight, Amazon, etc. (About $22 for a full metric set at HF, or $43 for a metric and US set). They are good enough to clean up threads and in this capacity will last you for years.Keep them clean, keep a light coat of oil on them and be sure to use some oil when using them. Turn them in a turn or two and them back them up a turn. This will help clean out the hole. Do the hole and the fastener. When you are done they should easily screw together by hand and you will likely never again suffer stripped threads.
Now....flame away.....

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Reactions: 2

D.T.

· #20 · 5 mo ago

Better that location than the oil drain plug.

Reactions: 2

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