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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Tudor A

I bought the Givi crash bars and got one side attached without too much trouble (once I broke free of the much-maligned locktitie holding the four bolts)

Now I'm on the kickstand side, and having removed the four bolts here, I'm having great difficulty aligning the bike's original V bar/bracket holes to the holes where the screws go into on the bike. I'm not succeeding at it, and that's WITHOUT the Givi bar - just trying to get it back to where it was, in other words!

I've tried placing a piece of wood under the attachement point and using the bike's weight to push the V bar up closer to the holes, which works vertically to align them, but then they don't line up left to right.

I read one post here with the same problem. He ultimately took the center bolt out of the engine, attached the bars and V bracket to the bike, and THEN put the center bolt back to the engine - I think. Open to that or other thoughts. If I do have to remove that center bolt, I have no idea the torque to be used. Do you know where I can find that info?
THANKS!
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I've never heard of that big a problem. A jack under the engine may help. The spec is 40lb-ft on the engine mounting bolt but I would put some anti seize on the threads and use 32lb-ft to account for the lubrication effect as both parts are stainless steel and like to gall. The 8mm bolts should be torqued to 16.5 lb-ft. The spec in the manual of 25.5lb-ft is just plain wrong.
 

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I had the same problem and GW is right on. I had to use a floor jack and a piece of wood to lift it back into place.
 

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I ran into the same problem with the Givi bars. I just backed off the engine bolt and had enough movement to install the upper bolts.

NOTE, BE VERY CAREFULL REINSTALLING THE UPPER BOLTS. IF THEY DON'T THREAD IN BY HAND STOP.

I would also add some of the Givi bolt threads were damaged on the ends. I ran a die over the bolts first. One of the bolts was slightly out-of-round not by much. This caused a problem installing, used it in the front where the two bars join.

Good luck and take your time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Jacked

Thanks greywolf and fishrman.

I tried the jack on the very bottom, small patch of the engine (with a 1" block of wood to avoid crushing the muffler.) The front end of the bike started to lift off, and the forward holes still didn't align. The back ones seem to now though.

fishrman: Should I attempt a more forward, higher position on the engine? Can I do that safely?

Thanks!!
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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You should be pushing on the engine casting, not the exhaust. If you can get a bolt in the back, do that before lifting any more. There is a hole in bottom of the castings that goes all the way through crosswise. If you can run a steel dowel through it, it might provide the leverage you need. Getting leverage under the V shaped engine hanger itself would be good.
 

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I panicked when this happened to me, as I thought I had really screwed something with the engine mounts!

I was able to just use a flathead screwdriver under that V bar and pry it up into position. I had a helper hold it up while I installed the Givi bars/bolts. No more Drama after that, other side was trouble free.
 

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I installed an SW Motech engine guard in about 15 min. with no issues.
I did have the bike vertical during the install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Finally solved this by mounting the bike and holding it straight up, (don't have a center stand yet) and lifting the "V" with my fingers. Then had the wife bolt in the first screw. From there the rest went pretty smooth. It had nothing to do with the Givi bars themselves, just the weight of the engine pulling the V mount down away from the screw holes once I had removed the OEM screws.

Thanks everyone.


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