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Discussion Starter #1
I have a low-mileage new-from-dealer 2009 DL1000. Both tank-attached fairings (Suzuki calls them cowlings) developed cracks at the rear attachment point, where there is a highly visible wide-head hex machine screw that screws into a tank stud. To me, it looked like something was out of spec since the screw was way off center in the molded-in depression in the fairing. That is, the tank seemed slightly too far back and too far down, which meant the fairing to be stretched back and down about an eighth of an inch to fit over the tank stud, and this constant pull caused the cracks. The shape of the cracks confirm this, as they radiated down and back away from the mounting point.

Suzuki didn't honor the warranty on the first panel that cracked, but when the second one cracked they did. However, the replacement cowling cracked on one side -- identical cracks. They then put a third cowling on, and it just cracked in the same manner.

Has anyone else had a similar problem with their V-Strom fairings, or any other Suzuki ABS plastic fairings? Any information would be helpful as I'm going to meet with the factory rep next week, and it would be nice to have confirmation that this isn't an isolated problem.
 

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Both sides cracked on my 650. It was past the one year point so I figured the extended warranty would cover it. Nope. They don't cover cosmetic damage! Eventually my local dealer convinced Suzuki to cover it and call it a good will gesture. They even gave me back the ones they took off.


SS
 

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Living the Stereotype
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It sounds like someone may have lost some hardware when servicing this bike. Allen-head screws, Phillips-head screws and plastic rivets are the only hardware used to attach the fairing/cowling. I don't think there should be any hex-head screws used.

Also some of the Allen- head screws have shoulders which prevent the head from pinching the plastic. Incorrect substitution will, over time, cause the plastics to crack.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Correction re: HEX HEAD

I should have said "hex socket screw". Aside from the little plastic replaceable rivets, its the same type of screw used to attach the plastic in most places on the bike. Yes, they vary slightly, but the heads are similar.
 

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I wonder of the front fairing was mounted too high or low. I noticed there is some adjustment. Moving it up or down changed the alignment of the holes with the tank.

It is hard to see the bracket between the forks and the top and bottom triple clams but the fairing bracket has slots.

 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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There is a slot and a tab to hold things in place to help get the bolts inserted. There really is no adjustment range as the bolts go through holes, not slots. Make sure both bolts are tight. Loose or missing bolts can cause a problem.
 

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There is a slot and a tab to hold things in place to help get the bolts inserted. There really is no adjustment range as the bolts go through holes, not slots. Make sure both bolts are tight. Loose or missing bolts can cause a problem.
I have had all the plastic off mine off twice and the first time I had to loosen and adjust the front so the rest of the plastic lined up. It is not much but when you get farther away fro the font it adds up. Also the headlight aim can move up or down.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Out of spec fairing frame

I think everyone is on the right track. It seems to me that the bracket, or frame, that holds the fairing on may be either slightly out of spec or somehow too far forward. The other possibility, as noted, is that the gas tank studs are slightly off. A little of both would cause the problem. One thing that chaps my rear is how thin the plastic is -- why the heck didn't Suzuki make the attachment points about 3 times thicker than they are? I don't get the engineering philosophy of "barely enough to do the job". This seems to be an Asian engineering outlook, as many Chinese products are similar. you can tell when you buy them where they're going to fail. I knew the first time I popped the fairing off when putting on a tank bra that there was too much tension in the flimsy plastic, too much pull on that tiny hole surface. And sure enough...

Still very interested in anyone else's experience with plastic cracking problems.
 
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