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Discussion Starter #1
after installing the center stand it's now easier to get an accurate oil level rather than just a go / no indication.

where should the oil be in the fill window if you used the prescribed volume for an oil / filter change?

any possible harm from running it right on the top line?

why does the rear axle nut have notches on the outside if it's not a reverse thread? maybe I'm missing something but that's always been an indication of left handed threads.

chain tension specs seem a little tight to me at the bottom end. I adjusted it to the top end of the spec but was wondering if people run them a little looser?

i did try the search function but didnt find anything on these, thanks for any help
 

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I like to see a little space between the oil level, and the top of the sightglass, myself.

Give that chain a little slack, but if this bike is brand new it will loosen up a bit anyway.
 

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Greywolf used to always suggest that it looks more full than it actually is when filling on the centerstand because it raised the back a bit compared to the front. So yes fill it right to the top of the sight gauge if it is on the centerstand.

..Tom
 

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why does the rear axle nut have notches on the outside if it's not a reverse thread? maybe I'm missing something but that's always been an indication of left handed threads.

chain tension specs seem a little tight to me at the bottom end. I adjusted it to the top end of the spec but was wondering if people run them a little looser?
Castellated nuts ( the ones you put cotter keys through the cutouts in the outer portion of them ) are not exclusive to left hand threads. They are simply a way to positively secure a nut against loosening. Quite common on fasteners that need an extra measure of safety.

A chain a bit on the loose side is ALWAYS better than one that is any too tight! There can be tremendous forces transferred to the bike from a too tight chain. Something has to give!
 

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As long as you can see oil in the sight glass you are okay. Filling it to the top or just below the top of the sight glass give you no benefit. Shooting for the oil level to be in the 1/2 to 3/4 the way up the sight glass is ideal.


For the rear axle nut are you talking about a castle nut. Where the nut has cutouts and the axle has a whole in it to install a cotter pin to keep the nut from loosening and or tightening. For the record the axle nut is a standard right hand thread.

Chain tension should be checked at several places. Mark one link check the chain tension and take note. Rotate the wheel one turn and check the tension again and take note. Do this as many times as it takes to get the marked link back to where you started. Then adjust the tightest part of the chain to 1.25 to 1.5" of slack.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
not a castle nut. notches on the points of the flats. I need to find a photo hosting site, let me see if I can find an example.

thanks for all the replies
 

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On a new fill with oil, I shoot for the top line every time and am happy if it is at full or even over. I do like to see a tiny air gap above the oil. These bikes almost all use a little oil. Why start out below full?

There is also some, including me, that feel the more oil in the bike, the more the oil will contact and cool the stator. On a dry sump engine, oil foaming is not typically an issue as the crank does not sling oil like a wet sump design.

As for checking on a center stand, that is fine, but slide a thin board under the front wheel until the bike wheels are equal distance from the floor. Yes I am OCD.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks again for all the replies.

I was curious about the oil level because it was the first time i could properly check the shops work. I assume they used the proper quantity of oil but saw that the sight glass was half full warm (slightly less cool). they charged for 4L, so I was wondering why they didnt fill it right to the top indicator. I like to fill it right to the top line, just makes it a simple check before each ride. stand the bike up and lightly rock it while looking for the little bubble at the top of the sight glass.

the bikes got 1700km and the chain was at 1.75", didnt seem too loose but thought I'd bring her a little closer to spec. the manual says .8" - 1.2", .8 sounds way too tight so I adjusted to 1.25". thanks for the tips, sounds like I've got it in the right range.

the axle nut markings aren't important, though it makes me wonder why two people mentioned castle nuts.... do your bikes have them? I'm going to try and attach a small pic, looks like the forum will let me..... maybe. I'm guessing these notches now indicate a type if locking nut but to me the signify left hand threads.

any suggestions for a free photo sharing website?
 

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Any good videos on checking chain slack, that are recommended from members of the forum.

I'm almost certain that my chain was adjusted too tightly on the service before pickup of the new bike. The chain feels like it's under constant tension.. even though I can force it up and down close to an inch.
 

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Way too much oil causes oil foaming. Oil foam is oil with air bubbles. Oil with air bubbles does not lubricate or transfer heat anywhere near as good as oil.
Filling to the top of the sight gauge when on the center-stand gets it nowhere near the area where it can cause foaming.

..Tom
 

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...
the axle nut markings aren't important, though it makes me wonder why two people mentioned castle nuts.... do your bikes have them? I'm going to try and attach a small pic, looks like the forum will let me..... maybe. I'm guessing these notches now indicate a type if locking nut but to me the signify left hand threads.
..
The earlier Stroms (pre 2012 DL650 and likely pre-2014 DL1000) had castle nuts with a cotter pin to lock them. 2012+ DL650 and 2014+ DL1000 do not have them.

..Tom
 

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Performed my first chain adjustment on the 1000. Easy peasy.

The dealer adjusted the chain on pre-delivery and it was way too tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Performed my first chain adjustment on the 1000. Easy peasy.

The dealer adjusted the chain on pre-delivery and it was way too tight.
I think the manufacturer spec is too tight, I've adjusted mine to the top of the suggested range. yours should have stretched quite a bit being brand new, so how tight was it from the store??? just crazy
 

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Discussion Starter #16
...I'm guessing these notches now indicate a type if locking nut but to me the signify left hand threads.
...
I just googled it and found the marks show they meet a particular standard.

Here is a link to apdf that shows the markings:

https://www.fastenermart.com/files/nut_id_marks.pdf

..Tom
thanks tom, still seems weird that they're using an already established indicator.

also seems weird that no one else knows what I'm talking about. go look at the nut on your bbq gas tank. nut looks the exact same, to indicate that it's a left hand thread.
 

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I try to keep my oil up at the top.

On my Wee I over filled a little as I believe it helps keep the stator cool and operational, could be working as the 09 Wee is still on the original stator.
 

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I ride the 2014 DL1000, so this may or may not be applicable...

As we have all read the owner's manual... (ahem) ...we know that they prescribed method for checking the oil level is a major pain in the butt. I decided early on to follow the prescribed method exactly (even timing it with a watch) to get an idea of the proper oil level and then put it up on the center stand to compare what the two look like. The two methods are nearly exactly the same. I suspect the owner's manual didn't use the center stand option because Suzuki felt guilty not providing us with a center stand. For my motorcycle the correct oil level (measured by volume) was just a bit above the center of the sight glass when on the center stand on level ground. I suspect that anything between the high and low marks in the engine case is just fine and pretty much equivalent. On a side note, the manual for my car says that if the oil level is anywhere within the crosshatched area then it is fine and specifically instructs that it is not necessary to add oil until it is below the bottom of the crosshatched area.

As for the chain tension. I have been running mine at the loose end of the spec, but hadn't adjusted it in a quite a long time. When I checked it after returning from a road trip with lots of dirt, it was very loose... i.e. lifting up on the chain it could touch the bottom of the swing arm (at least one full link completely flush on the swing arm). It didn't give me any trouble despite the rough dirt road and bouncing all over, but I am not recommending to run it that loose. I tightened it up to the loose end of the spec. My service manual calls out the same range (20 - 30 mm). I set it to 25-30mm. Measuring at about 10-12 spots around the entire chain most are at 25mm and a few spots were at 30mm (measured on the center stand with the rear wheel off the ground). There were about 4-6 stiff links, so I will probably replace the chain and sprockets in the near future. It has just about 20K miles on it. Aside from the stiff links it is within the service limit for length and otherwise seems to be just fine. The rear tire has less than 1mm of tread left before the wear indicators, so they will probably both get changed at the same time next month before the week long ride.
 

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Might be worth the 10 minutes to remove the rear shock and jack up the swing arm until it is in a straight line with the transmission sprocket... just to get a look at where my 25-30mm set point compares to "maximum tight".

Or maybe set the new chain's slack with the sprockets in a straight line and see where the slack ends up after reinstalling the shock and restoring to "normal". Has anyone tried that before?
 

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Any good videos on checking chain slack, that are recommended from members of the forum.

I'm almost certain that my chain was adjusted too tightly on the service before pickup of the new bike. The chain feels like it's under constant tension.. even though I can force it up and down close to an inch.
The factory service manual for the 2014 actually depicts the range as the distance between pressing down on the chain and lifting it up. The spec is 20-30mm (0.8 - 1.2 inches). I don't think they intended "force it up and down" but a light to moderate amount of force is what I use.

So if you were able to move it up and down about 1 inch, it was probably technically correct per the service manual.

There are many opinions on the forum that the factory spec IS too tight. As such I run mine on the loose end like many others, although my most recent adjustment is probably a little too close to the center of the spec.

I wonder if the sentiment that the factory spec is too tight might stem from riders' experience with other motorcycles that may have been designed with more "natural droop" (is there a technical term for this?) of the rear sprocket below the line drawn from the swingarm pivot through the front sprocket. This would allow the chain to tighten up more as the rear wheel lifts toward that line and would thus require more initial slack. I was surprised at how little "droop" there is on the DL1000L4 and combined with the relatively short travel it may legitimately require less slack because they were able to design it with the sprockets closer in-line with the swingarm pivot...

Or maybe it is just another of the infamous service manual errors / craziness.
 
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