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Discussion Starter #1
......a 30w LED light bar?

I want to install an LED light bar under my headlights to give myself some more light both at night and when lane sharing here in SoCal.

My plan is to wire it through a rocker switch which is ran to a switched circuit in the 3CS-S. The other switched circuit is dedicated to a USB powerlet and the unswitched circuit is dedicated to a 12v outlet.
 

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I have a similar question.
I have a 2015 DL650 XT Adventure. I have Oxford heated grips installed by my dealer
I want to simply add a Heated Vest and some cell phone, Drone and IPad charging capability.
Do I really need a switched situation, or is the Eastern Beaver 3CS fully unswitched best for what I will do.
I will ride my 2015 DL650 from Seattle North to Dawson City, Yukon, and then make the trip up the Dempster to Tuktoyaktuk, weather be willing in 2019.
I am looking for a simple electrical installation for the heated vest, device charging, and potential tire compressor charging for flat tires.

Do I really need switched, or is fully un-switched better for easier installation and simplicity of use.
If I know that ALL things are un switched, possibly my behavior would be such that I would be most careful of un-plugging my devices when I turn off my bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have a similar question.
I have a 2015 DL650 XT Adventure. I have Oxford heated grips installed by my dealer
I want to simply add a Heated Vest and some cell phone, Drone and IPad charging capability.
Do I really need a switched situation, or is the Eastern Beaver 3CS fully unswitched best for what I will do.
I will ride my 2015 DL650 from Seattle North to Dawson City, Yukon, and then make the trip up the Dempster to Tuktoyaktuk, weather be willing in 2019.
I am looking for a simple electrical installation for the heated vest, device charging, and potential tire compressor charging for flat tires.

Do I really need switched, or is fully un-switched better for easier installation and simplicity of use.
If I know that ALL things are un switched, possibly my behavior would be such that I would be most careful of un-plugging my devices when I turn off my bike.
If you trust yourself enough to always remember to turn everything off then I don't see the issue. I do not trust myself at all so I wanted to ensure I wouldn't kill yet another battery (I've already killed one).

The ease of use is incredible. I just turn the key off and everything else shuts off. Plus it protects the devices from damage with a relay and multiple fuses between the battery and the device itself. It also reduced clutter on the battery by allowing only one lead to be attached instead of several individual leads.
 

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A 30W LED is = 250W incandescent. That is a lot of light. I am assuming you don't run this on the street. Do you have a link to what you are going to run?

kfh000
 

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Best to do any electrical work properly. I'm lazy and haven't done it properly and have run the battery down a few times leaving some un-switched device on GPS, heated grips, aux lights.
Most aggravating. Surprisingly the battery recovered each time and lived a long life. I'm more careful about leaving the bike now.
Just do it right, not like me.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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My dot approved Denali DR1's are like the sun if you turn them on to facing vehicles on my V2. They will stop you for that as well. I have smaller LEDs (Mondomotos) on the V2 for daytime visibility.

My V2 has a EB PC-8 and every switched circuit is full. (two pairs lights, two cameras, a radar detector, gps, etc.) Those 30W lights are fine as was shown.

I run some cheap LEDs on my Versys always on for visibility but pointed down a bit and no one cares and I have never been flashed. My wife says they are the first thing she sees on the bike from over 1/4 mile away in daylight.

They do care about anything blinding to other drivers and anything that looks like an emergency strobe light flashing. :wink2:

To me some of the current production cars with LED's are unacceptable and blinding. At least in my state they seem to ignore the limitations on window tinting as well with no consequence. I added some fancy headlights on my truck but opted not to go the optional LED bulb route (yet) for the mains because they can be too much at night for other drivers and I know how I hate them. They are plenty bright as it turns out and much better than stock. I did put in some ultra-bright backup LED bulbs for hitching up to the RV. 1000 lumens each. Even they are a bit obnoxious up close.

it is not dot approved and if seen by leo , will be in trouble.


Halo CCFL, LED (bottom row), and halogen projector (off in picture)
 

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I was stopped once for a too bright a light.Coming home at midnight I was behind a cop with my high beam of a 70-130 watt H4 blazing away.
The low beam had burned out.
As he was checking me out he got a more important call and went away. I went back to 55-60 original H4 after than.
The heat from the 130 watt bulb had melted the plug some too.
 

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2500 lumens is not that powerful. It's half what one of my LED headlights puts out. The 30 watt rating is apparently an incandescent equivalent.
 
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