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Coolant volume: big water pump?

1K views 6 replies 4 participants last post by  Improperly Torqued 
#1 ·
After replacing the coolant in exact accordance with Suzuki's instructions, I find that I was only able to get about 3 pints in it (after one warmup/cooldown cycle so far). It should take a smidge over 4, according to the shop manual. Does the pump hold a pint, or is it hiding out somewhere else?

My limited knowledge of the function and behavior of antifreeze suggests that it isn't critical to drain it all; the main point of this is to replace the corrosion inhibitors. If those are now only 75% replaced, then doing the coolant annually instead of bi-annually should compensate.

Is my logic reasonable?
 
#2 ·
I got 4pts back into mine, but I had taken the radiator off for a valve clearance check. When adding back, I poured into the bottom hose of the radiator 'til it topped off, then attached and finished filling the radiator. Then I topped off the reservoir.

You've probably got some old antifreeze and maybe a little air still. No problem at all in my experience. You might check level after a several mile ride to see if it might need a little more to top up.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Nowhere nearly that much, but I did run some distilled water through it; probably a quart. I just poured it and watched it drain, and stopped after it ran clear.

I've considered the possibility that the 25% that is "missing" was distilled water that I didn't completely drain, since I did a more thorough job of draining the original coolant (rocking the bike) than I did the water. If so, then I calculate that my mixture of 75% 50/50 coolant/water and 25% pure water brings the total solution to 37.5% coolant.

I further calculate that if I replace 75% of a solution which is 37.5% coolant, and my new solution is 55/45 coolant/water, that brings the concentration back to almost exactly 50%. So I might do that just to be sure; even if I'm wrong and it's fine as-is, 55/45 is still in spec.

(And next time, I'll measure how much comes out of it, not just how much I put in.)
 
#5 ·
To check the corrosion inhibitors, when you have the plastic off and can get to the radiator cap, try this---

--With the engine cool, open the radiator cap and put one probe of a digital voltmeter into the coolant, not touching metal. Put the other probe on the battery negative post. If you read 0.1 volts DC to 0.3VDC, you're good. If you get 0.5VDC or more, the corrosion inhibitors are depleted and you're overdue for a flush and new coolant.

I've never been able to completely drain any engine I've worked on. If I flush with water, I replace half the book capacity with full strength antifreeze and top off with water. If your tap water has low mineral content, then tap water is OK. If it has high mineral content, then using distilled water is wise.
 
#6 · (Edited)
--With the engine cool, open the radiator cap and put one probe of a digital voltmeter into the coolant, not touching metal. Put the other probe on the battery negative post. If you read 0.1 volts DC to 0.3VDC, you're good. If you get 0.5VDC or more, the corrosion inhibitors are depleted and you're overdue for a flush and new coolant.
I read that very recently while looking for info on this ... thanks for reposting. I'll save that.

I've never been able to completely drain any engine I've worked on.
So 25% remaining doesn't seem out of whack to you?

I'll find out for sure in the morning; I'm going to re-do it when it's stone cold, and measure what I get at each step just for the fun of it. Coolant is cheap, and the plastic is still off -- my steering damper should be here tomorrow, so no point in putting the cowling back on yet -- ergo, nothing to lose but an extra half hour. Think of it as an extra flush.

Thanks for the feedback. -d
 
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