Coolant Change Question

5753 Views 50 Replies 20 Participants Last post by ThumperVegas, 2 mo ago

Ratchet

Discussion Starter · 4 mo ago

I have a 2013 DL650 and it's time for a coolant change. I've read several of the posts here and my Suzi Shop Manual. Questions that have not been answered by either of those sources:
1. Someone here (an old thread) said it is possible to change the coolant without removing the fairing - use a hose to fill the radiator from a bottle and suck old AF out of the expnsion tank. Someone else said to take the fairing off (per the manual). Can it be done w/o removing the fairing?
2. Procedure recommended is to empty the old coolant, flush w/ distilled water, blow out the expansion tank to get old coolant into the radiator (or suck it out w/ a hose and baster). The manual has a boldfaced warning NOT to dilute the coolant below 60%. I'm guessing they mean 60% water to 40% anti freeze because their Super Long Life AF is pre-diluted 50:50. Doesn't the distilled water remaining in the system from flushing bring the Super LL AF below that 60:40 threshold?

1 - 20 of 51 Posts

STCorndog

· #2 · 4 mo ago

I just drain everything that will come out. Skip flushing. Refill what came out with new. If I remember, I thought it was easier to remove the plastic and probably did the air filter at the same time.

The alternative is figuring out a good way to get the unknown quantity of distilled water left in the bike and the new coolant your adding, to near a 50/50 ratio.

My buddy does the flush and refill and uses a specific gravity type coolant tester.

Reactions: 2

Fox

· #3 · 4 mo ago

I don't bother with a flush, just drain and refill with new premix coolant, I like Prestone 50/50. If what comes out is super dirty, you might consider doing another coolant change at the end of your riding season.

From memory the only extra equipment needed to change it without removing plastics is few feet of clear vinyl tubing and a funnel to fill the radiator, makes it a 20 minute job from start to finish.

Reactions: 2

Chucksklrst

· #4 · 4 mo ago (Edited)

Taking the faring off is easy. after removing the side panels it is two small fastener on the tank and two bolts on the faring stay, then three connector of the left inside of the faring.

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dmfdmf

· #5 · 4 mo ago

As long as you use the same coolant that is in there now (Suzuki?) then there is no need to flush with d-water. The only time you need to flush with d-water is if you open the system (new hoses, new water pump, pulling the radiator, etc.) or if you change to a different brand/type of coolant. You can reach the radiator cap with a funnel with a hose attached for refill so no need to pull the fairing. I'd just be sure to secure it so it doesn't fall over when you start pouring and cover the pretty parts with rags to keep any spillage off the paint, etc.

There are myriad of coolant types, some compatible with each other and some not, so it is best not to mix brands unless you are sure on the compatiblity. I would use whatever is currently in there but if I ever pull the radiator for other work I'd flush with d-water and switch to Zerex Asian which is 50/50 premix so I don't have to worry about the ratio of water to AF.

The only absolute requirement on replacement coolant for the 'Stroms is that it is silicate-free antifreeze.

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dmfdmf

· #6 · 4 mo ago

Chucksklrst said:
Taking the faring off is easy. 4 after removing the side panels it is two small fastener on the tank and two bolts on the faring stay, then three connector of the left inside of the faring.

That is a really nice garage you got there, hopefully heated too. I am jealous. ;-)

Reactions: 1

Ratchet

Discussion Starter · #7 · 4 mo ago

Chucksklrst said:
Taking the faring off is easy. 4 after removing the side panels it is two small fastener on the tank and two bolts on the faring stay, then three connector of the left inside of the faring.

Thanks for your pictures. When I do my valve check next fall, I'll refer back to your pics. I've found removing the fairing to be a real bear - probably because I do it so infrequently and end up fighting the velcro. Too, I have to remove panniers, their carrier frame, and a top box. I've not yet tried to remove the fairing w/ my crash bars intact, but all this will happen next fall.

For now, it will be drain and fill using a funnel.

Reactions: 1

Chucksklrst

· #8 · 4 mo ago (Edited)

dmfdmf said:
That is a really nice garage you got there, hopefully heated too. I am jealous. ;-)

In the winter I will heat it up with a propane heater then when it is at temp I turn on the electric wall heaters to maintain the temp. Usually about 65 degrees will be nice and comfortable.

Reactions: 1

Chucksklrst

· #9 · 4 mo ago

Ratchet said:
Thanks for your pictures. When I do my valve check next fall, I'll refer back to your pics. I've found removing the fairing to be a real bear - probably because I do it so infrequently and end up fighting the velcro. Too, I have to remove panniers, their carrier frame, and a top box. I've not yet tried to remove the fairing w/ my crash bars intact, but all this will happen next fall.

For now, it will be drain and fill using a funnel.

You will have to remove the Rad to check the front cylinder valves. That is a good time for cleaning all the bugs out of the Rad fins by soaking the rad in a sink or wash tub. Then refilling with fresh coolant. I use Honda auto coolant Premixed and comes in a gallon jug. Around 20 bucks a gallon. Been using it for years in my prior Honda motorcycles.

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cpd419

· #10 · 4 mo ago

dmfdmf said:
As long as you use the same coolant that is in there now (Suzuki?) then there is no need to flush with d-water. The only time you need to flush with d-water is if you open the system (new hoses, new water pump, pulling the radiator, etc.) or if you change to a different brand/type of coolant. You can reach the radiator cap with a funnel with a hose attached for refill so no need to pull the fairing. I'd just be sure to secure it so it doesn't fall over when you start pouring and cover the pretty parts with rags to keep any spillage off the paint, etc.

There are myriad of coolant types, some compatible with each other and some not, so it is best not to mix brands unless you are sure on the compatiblity. I would use whatever is currently in there but if I ever pull the radiator for other work I'd flush with d-water and switch to Zerex Asian which is 50/50 premix so I don't have to worry about the ratio of water to AF.

The only absolute requirement on replacement coolant for the 'Stroms is that it is silicate-free antifreeze.

I would guess the zerex Asian blue is the same exact stuff as the Suzuki blue. Suzuki doesn’t make fluid.

dmfdmf

· #11 · 4 mo ago

cpd419 said:
I would guess the zerex Asian blue is the same exact stuff as the Suzuki blue. Suzuki doesn’t make fluid.

I've been using the Zerex red, I hope I'm not using the wrong type, doh!

cpd419

· #12 · 4 mo ago

dmfdmf said:
I've been using the Zerex red, I hope I'm not using the wrong type, doh!

As long as it is the correct type I doubt it matters.

Hans471

· #13 · 4 mo ago

Just a little hint to help out. Sometimes people don't put enough coolant back in the system, they get an air pocket, thinking the system is full they button it up. Later they get a "hot spot" in the engine than can even warp a head. Easy little thing to help avoid this: Drain the old coolant into an empty pan. Then measure how much coolant you removed. You now have at least a rough idea of how much it will take to get it refilled. Once you do have it filled run it and do a "thermo-cycle" and check it again. I always repeat this a few times as from experience I have learned that its easy to be fooled and end up with engine damage.
BTW: A thermo-cycle is a common slang name in the automotive field that refers to starting a cold engine, allowing it to get to operating temperature, having the coolant freely circulate and then shutting the engine down and allowing it to cool to ambient temperature. Some techs will say they don't really feel comfortable until the engine goes through four of these cycles without issue.

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D.T.

· #14 · 4 mo ago (Edited)

As for draining the coolant I just remove the coolant hose from the oil cooler at the oil filter. Remove the radiator cap to vent and refill.

Those vacuum chamber dealios are pretty cool for removing spent fluids for autos. I'd like to get one.

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TinMan88

· #15 · 4 mo ago

Pro tip. Most farm supply stores have a med/ vet section. They stock these giant syringes for injecting large animals. Smaller ones too. I use them for sucking out brake fluid reservoir or other cavities . About a buck fiddy.

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Hans471

· #16 · 3 mo ago

TinMan88 said:
Pro tip. Most farm supply stores have a med/ vet section. They stock these giant syringes for injecting large animals. Smaller ones too. I use them for sucking out brake fluid reservoir or other cavities . About a buck fiddy.

Yeah, I have a few of those! Handy beasts, save a lot of work. Just have one for each type of fluid and mark it so you don't get them mixed up.

Reactions: 1

TinMan88

· #17 · 3 mo ago

I was asked...

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Improperly Torqued

· #18 · 3 mo ago

Chucksklrst said:
Taking the faring off is easy. after removing the side panels it is two small fastener on the tank and two bolts on the faring stay, then three connector of the left inside of the faring.

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I don't trust anyone whose garage is that clean.

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D.T.

· #19 · 3 mo ago

Ok, now the next question. What do you do with the old coolant?

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Chucksklrst

· #20 · 3 mo ago

I mix it with my old and take it to an oil recycle place. Many Auto parts store will recycle it. I take mine to Advanced Auto Parts. About two miles from my house.

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