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Hi all, a bit of a warning for you all regarding Nighteye LED's

I bought these H4 hi/Lo ones from eBay, for a good price (approx $40aud).

I figured what the heck, coming with a 3 year warranty.

Delivery was good, packaging is good and install was really simple.

The lights worked well at first. I switched them on and off, tested Hi and Lo beams. All good.

I then shut the bike down and installed my new risers, up 26mm back 20mm. No worries, the wires are all clear and not stressed at full lock.

I then fire the bike back up and the Lo Beam fuse pops. Hi Beam is working fine.

I check the wiring around the forks and headset as I thought I may have damaged something while installing the risers.
It's all good.

I try the spare 15A fuse and turn the ignition. It pops straight away.

Two fuses down, I decided I needed to isolate whether it's the new LED bulbs or something else.

I disconnect the LED, pop a new fuse in and fire it up. All good, no fuses popping.
I put the old halogens back in and all good. Hi and Lo Beams are working correctly.

So, a heads up guys, these things are likely to pop a fuse!

It is strange, however, that they initially worked and only started popping the fuse after a few minutes and after installing the risers.

Pic of product:


Cheers
Chris
 

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Did you try just one at a time ?
 

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Did you try just one at a time ?
Yes. I unplugged both and then tried the front right. It blew the fuse as soon as the ignition was on.

I didn't bother trying the front left on its own as I'd run out of 15a fuses and just want d to get the stock bulbs back in.

I figure there's a faulty ground in the LED bulb(a) or they are drawing more amps than the stock wiring can handle.
 

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I recently spent quite a lot of money and time experimenting with LED bulbs for my BMW. They have the CanBus electrical system, that added to problems finding a bulb compatible. All the bulbs I tried were listed as CanBus compatible. Most were not once tried them. Most did lose power output after a few minutes as they were getting too warm ( light output goes down ). You don't notice this at first as it is gradual. The brand/type I ended up with works well and has probably 10K miles so far.

But, beware of LED bulbs. There is a lot of quality and advertising issues. That said, the whiter light and higher lumen output over even the best Halogen bulbs may be worth the effort to make them work. Especially on dark, rainy nights.
 

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I recently spent quite a lot of money and time experimenting with LED bulbs for my BMW. They have the CanBus electrical system, that added to problems finding a bulb compatible. All the bulbs I tried were listed as CanBus compatible. Most were not once tried them. Most did lose power output after a few minutes as they were getting too warm ( light output goes down ). You don't notice this at first as it is gradual. The brand/type I ended up with works well and has probably 10K miles so far.

But, beware of LED bulbs. There is a lot of quality and advertising issues. That said, the whiter light and higher lumen output over even the best Halogen bulbs may be worth the effort to make them work. Especially on dark, rainy nights.
Very interesting to hear! I'm unsure i have the patience to test multiple bulbs for compatibility.

Which bulbs did you end up using?
 

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...

But, beware of LED bulbs. There is a lot of quality and advertising issues. That said, the whiter light and higher lumen output over even the best Halogen bulbs may be worth the effort to make them work. Especially on dark, rainy nights.
That is a quote worth repeating! There is so much re-branding in LED market place it is hard to know what the source quality and spec really is. Even the vendor you buy them from may not know unless they really work at it. I suggest shopping for the right vendor is the first mission. Then you can choose format, lumens and color range. The price doesn't go up very much, if at all.

Personally, I use HID headlights and live with the one time hassle of mounting the ballast. I do use LEDs for auxiliary lights, because they are externally mounted, there is enough room for big heat sinks and they stick out in the wind for cooling.

While there are other quality vendors the one I (and my friends) have been using for a few years is DDM. They even answer their phone and certainly understand CanBus cars and motorcycles.
 

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Beyond the dropping output when they get hot, I will say that LED bulbs seem to last a lot better than the HID kits I have run in the past.
 

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Somewhere on this forum I found a glowing reference to these H4 LED's from ADVMonster
Wicked expensive (as we say in Boston) but hopefully they last. Installed them on my Wee2 last week, looking forward to better commuting rides home at midnight when the weather warms.
And maybe they'll help avoid the no-relay headlight switch issue?
 

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That is a quote worth repeating! There is so much re-branding in LED market place it is hard to know what the source quality and spec really is. Even the vendor you buy them from may not know unless they really work at it. I suggest shopping for the right vendor is the first mission. Then you can choose format, lumens and color range. The price doesn't go up very much, if at all.

Personally, I use HID headlights and live with the one time hassle of mounting the ballast. I do use LEDs for auxiliary lights, because they are externally mounted, there is enough room for big heat sinks and they stick out in the wind for cooling.

While there are other quality vendors the one I (and my friends) have been using for a few years is DDM. They even answer their phone and certainly understand CanBus cars and motorcycles.
I like DDM Tuning also. I had a set of HID bulbs on my last bike and they seemingly last forever. They do toss a lot of glare out there. I wish I could fit their projector units as that is the proper mounting solution.
Do you have their dual setup with high/lo beam? I wondered whether those work.
 

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I like DDM Tuning also. I had a set of HID bulbs on my last bike and they seemingly last forever. They do toss a lot of glare out there. I wish I could fit their projector units as that is the proper mounting solution.
Do you have their dual setup with high/lo beam? I wondered whether those work.
On my SV650n (single round headlight) I have one of their Hi/Low bulbs. As you may know, these have a metal slider (forward/aft) that determines High from Low. This again is where quality matters. The bulb I have, has been working for a tic shy of 4 years. It is very bright and throws that light way down the road. Essentially, daytime speeds are comfortable at night.
On my V2 I have the two separate HID bulbs, of course. Low is 35W, High 55W. The OEM lights on the V2 are pretty darn good. The HIDs are a whole next level. On both bikes I use the pure white color spectrum. The crisp white really aids depth perception way down the road. I use the LEDs, two 6 pot Crees, to aid the depth perception (speed) nearer to the bike. They are aimed very slightly down and wide. Naturally, daylight "conspicuousity" gets better, too. Having the Aux lights down on the crash bars, away from the headlights, generates a larger "eye-print" for the cagers.
 

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I have these bulbs on my 2005..really like them and no issues so far for me..I do have a headlight relay though..no clue if that matters, but mine work fine and have for a few hours of use now..
 

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That's what I'm running now. I've had aiming issues - can't seem to get them low enough.
They are some bright sumbitches tho...
I am under the impression it has to do with "how" you put them in, there makes a difference in the light spread and aiming.
 

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I am under the impression it has to do with "how" you put them in, there makes a difference in the light spread and aiming.
Nope - the flanges are indexed - only one way to put them in - same way you can't put the halogen bulb in wrong. The bulb itself has bayonette type lugs (like 1157 bulb base) that insert into the flange one post larger than the other so it can only go in one way.
The problem is there's two LED chips - one for bright the other for low - they emit at a wide angle sideways but it's never going to do the full 360 a bulb will. So result is the pattern is off.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I've been trying to return these things to the seller, but the language barrier (chinese seller) is proving difficult. I might just cut my losses.

I'm also thinking of heading down the path of installing HID bi-xenon's with a relay direct to battery. I've had more success with these in the past in various cars.
 

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I've been trying to return these things to the seller, but the language barrier (chinese seller) is proving difficult. I might just cut my losses.

I'm also thinking of heading down the path of installing HID bi-xenon's with a relay direct to battery. I've had more success with these in the past in various cars.
Take it up with Paypal.
 

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Cyclops, had them in my Strom. They seem to be of very high quality and worked great. They really lit things up.

I am about to put 4 of them on my Wing. Electrical connection is selling some now that also appear to be worth looking into.
 

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Take it up with Paypal.
Yes, i might just do that!

Cyclops, had them in my Strom. They seem to be of very high quality and worked great. They really lit things up.

I am about to put 4 of them on my Wing. Electrical connection is selling some now that also appear to be worth looking into.
Cyclops had these nighteye LED's? Was he running a relay or direct connection throught the OEM harness?
I'm thinking there's an issue with current draw on these things through the OEM harness and a relay is probably required.
 

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I've been trying to return these things to the seller, but the language barrier (chinese seller) is proving difficult. I might just cut my losses.

I'm also thinking of heading down the path of installing HID bi-xenon's with a relay direct to battery. I've had more success with these in the past in various cars.
I'm always suspicious of language barrier issues in this day and age - likely the postage was more than it cost them to make the things.
 
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