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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hoping to get some advice regarding an electrical fault I had this morning. Riding to work the gauge cluster started behaving oddly. Lights coming on and off, gauges reseting. The engine continued to operate as expected with no interruption.

Eventually the odd behavior stopped and things returned to normal, except the speedometer was not responsive. The trip meter is also not recording distance. On startup the speedometer needle still briefly pings to the max value as expected, and all lights on the gauge work as expected, just no speed.

Looking at the main connector on the left side of the fairing, there appears to be a short. This is a 2004 DL-650. It's been with me for ~70k miles now. This is the first real fault I've ever had with the bike and it still runs beautifully - pretty amazing engineering.
 

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Maybe not a short but a loose connection. We used to get that at work. Those individual pins could be pushed out of the connector and replaced.
The loose connection make for a resistive connection and it heats up and cooks.
 

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BTR, that discoloration on the connector block is caused by heat.
With a small pin tool like a micro-screwdriver or tool set designed for pin removal, you can remove the terminal by lifting the lock portion of the termial through the small slot above the terminal and pulling the wire out from the back of the terminal block. You can clean the and tighten the terminal and return it to the block if the plastic isnt melted. You can clean it with Battery Spray Terminal Cleaner, then with water, CRC (or equivalent) Electramotive Cleaner, or DeOxit Cleaner and Preservative. Clean the male terminal in the mating block as well.

IF you can't remove the terminal due to heat damage, and you have access to both connectors, merely cut off both wires at the terminal blocks, strip 1/2" from both, and use insulated solderless crimp connectors, 1 male, 1 female, and an inexpensive crimping tool to attatch them, connect the 2 wires and DONE. You'll want the terminals that are fully plastic-enclosed. They'll be connected on the outside of the terminal blocks from which you cut the wires, and are in effect wiring around the connectors. Tape-wrap this lone wire to the harness and youre finished.
 

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Yet another panel ground connection failure

Hoping to get some advice regarding an electrical fault I had this morning. Riding to work the gauge cluster started behaving oddly. Lights coming on and off, gauges reseting. The engine continued to operate as expected with no interruption.
Eventually the odd behavior stopped and things returned to normal, except the speedometer was not responsive. The trip meter is also not recording distance. On startup the speedometer needle still briefly pings to the max value as expected, and all lights on the gauge work as expected, just no speed.
Looking at the main connector on the left side of the fairing, there appears to be a short. This is a 2004 DL-650. It's been with me for ~70k miles now. This is the first real fault I've ever had with the bike and it still runs beautifully - pretty amazing engineering.
As notacop said, it's an overly "loose" connection. Tin plated connections, as found in that and other cheap connectors, need to have significant pressure between contacting surfaces to impede growth of tin oxide into the space that one would like to remain conductive. That connector might have enough pressure, but between temperature cycling and that particular pin pair carrying a lot of current, there is regular movement between the mating surfaces, allowing gradual growth of the oxide inward into that contacting area. As that happens, the resistance goes up, hence the temperature excursions increase, promoting even faster oxide growth until there is so much contact resistance that the pins get hot enough to char the housing, (as you can see.)


A good way to preclude or at least forestall this process is to get new pins to replace the now-damaged ones, (one in each half of the mated connector pair), then apply a small amount of DeoxIT or Stabilant where it can wick into that contacting area. These substances greatly slow that oxide growth. (The DeoxIT manufacturer much overstates the virtues of their product, with claims far beyond reality, but it does perform the oxygen blocking function. They are selling into the audiophile market where snake-oil-style marketing is the norm.)

I would be tempted, when repairing this failure, to put another pair of pins into one of the unused positions in the housings, then parallel the wire going though the fixed connection with another going through the newly added pin pair. One contributor to this failure is that Suzuki is asking that connection to pass more current than it can reliably handle in the long term. By paralleling connections, you will halve the current in each pin pair and reduce heating (in each pair) by a factor of 4. We see that failure often enough in this forum that I would be willing to bet that the current rating is being exceeded, even though I have not looked up the connector specification or measured what current passes in that position.
 

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Perform the repair that MAZ4ME and Trepidator mentioned, and then install some headlight relays from EasternBeaver for example. :smile2:
 

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One item i forgot to mention...
Pack both sides of the connector with silicone dielectric grease, available from any auto parts store in tube form.
This was one of the steps to be done during Mazda recalls where corrosion/loose terminals was an issue.
 

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I'm with Big B install headlight relays to take the load off the connector.

If you search this site that problem has shown up many hundreds of times, many bypass the connector but relays are the ultimate solution.
 

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I'm with Big B install headlight relays to take the load off the connector.

If you search this site that problem has shown up many hundreds of times, many bypass the connector but relays are the ultimate solution.
I contend that replacing the incandescent headlight bulbs with LED "bulb" modules is just as effective with respect to getting current reduced sufficiently in that connector to avoid that runaway contact resistance failure. And, similarly to a headlight relay, the reduced current is much easier on the starter switch.
 
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