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Hi all, I apologie for the noob question (I just don't want to stuff anything up). I purchased a usd charger from an electronics shop (Jaycar) and for a weekend trip I wanted to connect it straight to the battery and run it up to my tank bag.

Q1. If I un-screw the terminal connectors to drop the connectors over the battery posts, will this influence the bike starting at all (I would effectively be disconnecting the battery)?

Q2. The usb charger has an in line fuse, however by leaving it connected will it drain battery over night? If so I can either take fuse out over night or I could bereak the cable isolating the usb end as it has a factory fitted joiner 3/4 along the cable?

This is just a temporary install until I can get my hands on an Eastern Beaver fuse block and others stuff.

Sorry for this lame question in advance.
 

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If you do it correctly you should be able to do it without power interruption, but if you do happent to disconnect the battery it's no biggie... So pull the battery terminal bolt out on one terminal at a time while holding the bikes power lead against the battery's terminal. Add your accessory lead and then put the bolt back in the terminal... repeat on the other side...

To be honest I would never connect anything to the battery directly if there was any chance of a parasitic power draw... As you mentioned at some point (depending on the power draw) it would kill your battery... Any time I add electronics to my bike I always use a aux fuse box that is relay switched...
 

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There is only a drain if something is plugged into the USB charger. If the battery is disconnected long enough, you may have to reset the clock. That would be the only effect.
 

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If you do happen to disconnect the battery it's no biggie...
Correct. All you'll have to do is reset the clock.

So pull the battery terminal bolt out on one terminal at a time while holding the bikes power lead against the battery's terminal. Add your accessory lead and then put the bolt back in the terminal... repeat on the other side...
I absolutely disagree.

There is too much chance of shorting the positive terminal to the bike frame. I always disconnect the negative lead first and leave it disconnected whilst disconnecting the positive lead (Note - I am talking of modern vehicles with negative ground systems).

Connected the fused positive lead to the battery and bolt it back up. Then do the negative lead.

I haven't used an ignition controlled relay to isolate my heated grips, my USB charger, nor my GPS. One reason for that is that I want my GPS powered all the time. Having its power go off with the ignition would mean the GPS would shut down every time I stopped the bike unless I remember to tell it not to. That's a pain on a trip.
 

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Many modern aux female USB ports include a tiny light which although will not discharge your battery over night, will accelerate its discharge rate if the bike is not frequently ridden or placed on a charger when said USB port is connected directly to the battery
 

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I haven't used an ignition controlled relay to isolate my heated grips, my USB charger, nor my GPS. One reason for that is that I want my GPS powered all the time. Having its power go off with the ignition would mean the GPS would shut down every time I stopped the bike unless I remember to tell it not to. That's a pain on a trip.
You could isolate your accessories using a NO switch either alone, or to a relay. That way for overnight you can flip the switch and prevent any possibility of parasitic drain and a dead battery.

I wouldn't want to leave multiple accessories connected directly to the battery long term, especially if you're going to leave the bike in the rain, or have made your own wiring (unless you have used waterproof connectors and done a really good job, like I have :grin2:).

I've always read that electrical faults are the #1 cause of motorcycle trips being interrupted/stopped. I've also done my own wiring for both my bikes, and I've found that it really isn't that expensive to do wiring the right way, using good waterproof connectors (I use Deutsch), heat shrink up the wazoo instead of electrical tape, and making sure you don't have any exposed metal. You can wire stuff up for pennies, so doing it right is a large percentage more expensive, but in overall cost compared to other mods, doing the wiring right is very cheap, and extremely worth the money.

The front end of my bike is crazy with wiring as I have added a ton of stuff:
1. Relay for my Denali Soundblaster Horn
2. Third wire for new turn signals with a running light (using Yamaha 3-pin connectors that are small enough to fit through the turn signal nut)
3. 3 constantly powered 2-pin Deutsch connectors mounted to a panel under the gauge (through the ignition relay on my fuseblock). They power by cig/USB ports, my voltmeter, and my heated grips.
4. 4 2-pin Deutsch 2-pin connectors. Right now they power 2 add-on LED lights, and I threw 2 more in there because they fit, and I figured I might as well add them while I'm in there...

I know that is pretty excessive, but it has proved very useful so far. The ports are easily accessible without removing any fairing or the apron, and I think the wiring is pretty bulletproof. I am waiting on some new small connectors to replace the couple bullet connectors in the picture, but besides that, the only risk I think is the fact that the relays aren't waterproof, which I think is ok. I wish I had a picture of the before state with a rat's nest of wires, which was not great.

 

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I always snip the end out of the ring battery terminals on any accessories so they now resemble a "U".

That way you only need to loosen the battery bolts to add or remove any accessories.
 

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Q1. If I un-screw the terminal connectors to drop the connectors over the battery posts, will this influence the bike starting at all (I would effectively be disconnecting the battery)?

...
I would be very surprised if a USB charger would have much drain at all if it isn't actually charging anything.


You don't say what model/year of Strom you have. If you have a 2014+ DL1000 and you disconnect the battery you will find the range-to-empty display resets itself when power is lost and will take about 15 km of riding before it displays again. Not a biggy but something a few of us have worried about when confronted with it.

..Tom
 
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