You don't happen to have a throttle lock on the bike do you?
Completely stuck throttle
Greetings all. The throttle on my DL650 K4 will stick at whatever point I let it go. I.e. if I twist back to WOT and let go, or anywhere in between that and idle, it will stay there when I take my hand off. The bike has been sitting for a while as a Goldwing and an XT have joined the tribe and get much of the attention these days.
I have verified that my bar end weight is not too tight, the grip is not pressed against the switch mechanism, and my throttle lock is not binding at all.
Today I did the tank lift and got a little WD on the underside ends of the cables on the little springs but no change.
Can anyone advise on likely culprits for the stuck throttle, remediation, and lubrication suggestions. I'm thinking next step is might have to be tank removal and throttle body butterfly inspection. My understanding is that the cables themselves are not to be lubed as they are Teflon coated inside.
Thanks in advance,
HW
I have verified that my bar end weight is not too tight, the grip is not pressed against the switch mechanism, and my throttle lock is not binding at all.
Today I did the tank lift and got a little WD on the underside ends of the cables on the little springs but no change.
Can anyone advise on likely culprits for the stuck throttle, remediation, and lubrication suggestions. I'm thinking next step is might have to be tank removal and throttle body butterfly inspection. My understanding is that the cables themselves are not to be lubed as they are Teflon coated inside.
Thanks in advance,
HW
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Does the throttle tube move smoothly on the bar? It needs to be absolutely clean. If you want to lubricate it only use a light DRY lube. Anything else will collect dust and gum it up again in no time. Same goes for the throttle cables, they are NOT supposed to be oiled. Ever. They have teflon liners and any oil will collect dust and grit and end up seizing the cables.
I used to think that the throttle cables were the same as clutch and did not need lubrication, but I was told by an administrator that the throttle cable do require lube. I have not yet lubed my 2008 however.Does the throttle tube move smoothly on the bar? It needs to be absolutely clean. If you want to lubricate it only use a light DRY lube. Anything else will collect dust and gum it up again in no time. Same goes for the throttle cables, they are NOT supposed to be oiled. Ever. They have teflon liners and any oil will collect dust and grit and end up seizing the cables.
BEFORE you get that deep ... Try "relaxing" the screws that hold the switch box halves together while the throttle is stuck wide open. You can see where I'm going with this. Remember that there are two cable barrels that rotate in the throttle tube flange. They can get scummed up and even might even have a frayed/broken wire strand.Greetings all. The throttle on my DL650 K4 ... I'm thinking next step is might have to be tank removal and throttle body butterfly inspection.
_ At this point that would be good news
. _ You need to lube the cables anyway. One of these cable lube tools are very handy. Or just drip some sewing machine oil down each cable and a bit of white grease on the barrels and flange.
Motion Pro cable tool
Let us know ...
do you have heated grips? I managed to melt/warp mine on a cold day a few years back and didn't realize till the next day when they were stubborn to move.
Ditto Dark Angel. Lube the barrels but not the cables.Does the throttle tube move smoothly on the bar? It needs to be absolutely clean. If you want to lubricate it only use a light DRY lube. Anything else will collect dust and gum it up again in no time. Same goes for the throttle cables, they are NOT supposed to be oiled. Ever. They have teflon liners and any oil will collect dust and grit and end up seizing the cables.
You should have 2 cables, one to open the throttle and the other to close it. (it is a 4 stroke thing)
Lift the tank and watch both cables as you open and close the throttle, both should move fully and freely.
Add some slack into both cables, if one is binding up you will see it in the slack part of the cable.
Also after adding the slack you will feel if the problem is up at the grip, down at the throttle bodies, or the cables them selves.
Lift the tank and watch both cables as you open and close the throttle, both should move fully and freely.
Add some slack into both cables, if one is binding up you will see it in the slack part of the cable.
Also after adding the slack you will feel if the problem is up at the grip, down at the throttle bodies, or the cables them selves.
Yes, the barrels at the ends of the cables, the cast lumps of metal, need a little grease where they attach. Once you put any oil inside the cables you will have trouble. They're teflon lined and don't need oiling. If they're binding it's time to replace them. The clutch cable is the same.
Huh, I didn't think that they came with OEM teflon lined throttle cables. But then again, I guess I really don't know when that started. When did it start?
I have them in my 2009 and they were in my 2007 as well.
Is the throttle return sprint intact?
I would remove the throttle lock and test for free movement.
If still jammed disassemble and remove the throttle tube, clean the bar and the inside of the tube, dry lube the bar and the inside of the throttle tube, and the raised edge of the throttle tube where the cable nipples fit.
Reassemble and test. The issue is more likely to be at the top end.
Do you have barkbusters, or any other non standard accessories there?
If still jammed disassemble and remove the throttle tube, clean the bar and the inside of the tube, dry lube the bar and the inside of the throttle tube, and the raised edge of the throttle tube where the cable nipples fit.
Reassemble and test. The issue is more likely to be at the top end.
Do you have barkbusters, or any other non standard accessories there?
Thanks folks some good ideas for me to try and and then I'll report back.
Once on my '04, the throttle would stick at a high idle 2,500 RPM +, Turns out there was some varnish build up in the throttle body throats. The butterflies would stick just enough to cause the high idle. A lot of carb cleaner and a little scrubbing with a nylon brush fixed the problem. The bonus was there was not a single mosquito throughout the entire neighborhood for weeks. Boy did that sucker smoke on the first start-up.
Take the throttle lock off and try it again.Greetings all. The throttle on my DL650 K4 will stick at whatever point I let it go. I.e. if I twist back to WOT and let go, or anywhere in between that and idle, it will stay there when I take my hand off. The bike has been sitting for a while as a Goldwing and an XT have joined the tribe and get much of the attention these days.
I have verified that my bar end weight is not too tight, the grip is not pressed against the switch mechanism, and my throttle lock is not binding at all.
Today I did the tank lift and got a little WD on the underside ends of the cables on the little springs but no change.
Can anyone advise on likely culprits for the stuck throttle, remediation, and lubrication suggestions. I'm thinking next step is might have to be tank removal and throttle body butterfly inspection. My understanding is that the cables themselves are not to be lubed as they are Teflon coated inside.
Thanks in advance,
HW
Well, I'm a little embarrassed to post an update. I removed the bar end, throttle lock (again) and grip and just looked things over. No obvious problem. Reassembled and all is well. I would suspect the throttle lock but had already removed it as a test and that didn't help. Thanks for all the comments and tips.
My throttle was sticking, and then it wasn’t, and then it stuck again. I realized it only stuck when the heated grips were turned on. When hot, the grip expands and gets stuck against the bar end weight. I moved the throttle farther inward. Problem solved.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
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