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Hullo,

My 2005 Wee's manual says to completely fill the crankcase with oil before storing the bike (I never bothered to do this before).

It sounds good in theory, but how much more oil does it take over and above the normal fill amount? Mobil 1 MX4T is not cheap.

Or maybe I can top it up with regular dino 10w40 and then in the spring, suck out the excess and run with the resulting blend of dino + synthetic?


- Martin
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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If you decide to fill the crankcase up the the filler hole, the procedure would be to drain the old oil to get rid of acids and contaminants and fill it with the cheapest oil you can find. When you are ready to remove it from storage, drain the cheap oil, change the oil filter and put in the oil of your choice.
 

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Like Tom said, if you wanted to store it for several years, sure. Over the winter? Slap a battery tender on it and call it good.
 

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I would not store it for the winter with old oil, but I wouldn't do anything but change the oil and add fuel stabilizer to a full tank of fuel.
 

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The good ol' manual sez to remove the battery from the bike if the bike will be subject to temperatures below freezing. I'm putting up my Wee (from the end of Nov - April) in a detached unheated garage that will certainly see temperatures below freezing. If I put a Battery Tender on it can I leave the battery in the bike?
 

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FOGGING OIL squirt it everywhere oil/ gas down the exhausts

Cover the corbel holes air intake and exhaust, Aluminum foil is nice after the shot of fogger.

I do put in new cheap oil and filter. The spring it gets real oil after 1 ride

Batteries will only freeze when they are discharged. I scored a nice battery keeper at Walmart for $20 (microprocessor and sulphate cycle)

Get her really hot 20 minute ride then Fill her to the tippy top with stabilized gas.

Don't keep starting it to circulate the oil it just creates moisture

Maybe an extra 10 psi in the tires or up on a stand

If the sun can hit it get a cover, soft old blanket or cheap blanket from walmart... not a scratchy tarp directly on the paint.
 

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I live in Michigan and own dirtbikes as well as my V and we have LONG winters. I'm new to the V but with my dirtbikes I run StaBol through the carbs until everything was hot, drain the oil fill the crankcase completely with cheap dino oil. Then I drain them again in the spring and replace with the synthetics that I'm going to run.
Before I started doing that my clutches would be seized in the spring. I'd have to rev the engine up a bit and dump the clutch to get them to break. It wasn't serious but I didn't like it at all. That may be a problem unique to dirt bikes but generic oil is cheap insurance.
The other thing I do is lift the tires off the pavement. I have a center stand so I just put a 2x4 under the crash bar to get the front wheel up. There's not much weight on the front wheel with a center stand but I think it's better just to keep it off the ground.
 

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A fully charged battery freezes at about -65°F. Batteries self-discharge, so a battery without a trickle charger might self-discharge to the point where it will freeze in normal winter freezing temperature.
 

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Oh, you guys put your bikes away for the winter....ummmm.

We love to do this one ride up to Rabbit Hash, KY on New Year's Day. Its a tradition here in these parts. As long as its 45 degrees or more and there is no snow (salt) on the road we ride all winter.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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As long as its 45 degrees or more and there is no snow (salt) on the road we ride all winter.
If I had weather anywhere nearly like that, I'd ride every day too.
 

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I had just changed the oil filter and filled it with fresh Mobil 1 when I happened to read the storage instructions to see if I had missed anything.

I'll probably just leave it alone.
 

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remember

Chemical reaction rate drops with temperature. So I don't worry too much about changing oil in the fall (although, sadly, I rarely accumulate more than 4000 miles in a year). I make sure the last ride gets the oil up to full temp for a half-hour (at least) to reduce the moisture, then add fuel stabilizer, run the bike long enough to get it into the FI thoroughly, then fill up the tank. I also pop a couple of crutch tips (from Westlake Hardware) over the exhaust to minimize moisture getting in. Then the seat comes off, the trickle charger goes on, then it gets covered up after going up on the centerstand. Oh, and I usually give the chain a shot of nice, oily chain lube (rather than my usual 'clean' lube) to minimize external rust. My garage is clean, unheated, and pest-free, but does get quite a bit of moisture off melting cars if it is a snowy winter.
 

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I have to say, this is one of the more ludicrous suggestions on winterizing that I've ever heard. New one by me up here in northern New England, where we have been winterizing engines (or not) for many decades.

Yes, I do understand the point of the suggestion: Dilute all those (purportedly) nasty acids with the maximum volume of motor oil. And by filling it to the "brim" you'll discourage any condensate from occurring inside the crankcases.

Consider this: When you fill it "all the way", it isn't. You can;t fill it above the fill hole (unless you plan on lying the bike on its side) and so there will still be a volume of air above the oil in the crankcases. And if by chance you forget to drain and properly refill with the right amount of oil, you'll quite likely have some serious damages as the engine tries to flail about in the overfilled oil level.


Here's what I do:
If the bike is past the half due mileage for an oil change at "lay-up time", I'll change the oil. Normal oil. Normal level. Won't do it again in the spring. Otherwise it can sit in its own filth for a few months. That's what happens during the year anyway, so how is that so much different?

Stabilize the fuel and make sure the tank is full up. But often, there will be a nice day in mid-winter. And which bike do you suppose I'm going to take out? Hell ya. The V-strom is a work horse. It's made for that kind'a use and abuse. :thumbup:


Exactly how long do you think you can make this thing last anyway? :confused:
 

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You know, I've seen that instruction, but I've never interpreted it to mean that you fill up the engine COMPLETELY like it's a water balloon or something. :confused:

I just thought it meant to put in a normal amount of oil. Basically do a normal oil change.

Filling it up all the way doesn't make a bit of sense to me -- starting the engine in this condition would be pretty dangerous, and it would be very difficult to drain out the exact correct amount of oil in the spring.
 

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My garage is clean, unheated, and pest-free
If anyone's garage or shed does have pests--mice, etc.--a moth block or moth balls is a big help keeping them away from stuff they might chew on, including the insulation on wiring. The moth block also helps keep mildew from growing on fabrics.
 

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Cover the corbel holes air intake and exhaust,

OK, so what in blazes is a corbel hole?




Hmmm, do I really want to know this?
 
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