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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone install them on their bike? How do they work? The Racetech cartridge emulators work by transferring the damping function from the damper rods to the emulators. You drill out the damper rod so it can't produce any pressure in the fork and drop the Racetech emulator on top of the rod. You adjust the damping by taking out the emulator, adjusting it, then putting it back. I watched the video on the cogent emulators and you don't do any machining so how do they take over the function of the damping rods?
 

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I put the Traxion emulators in my SV650. That was 5 years ago. They work good enough that I never went on to swap out the forks for the GSXR 750 units. I just took a quick look at their website and I don't see the ones I got, just the cartridge systems. I also did the Sonic springs. It was a big improvement, particularly on less than perfect roads.
 

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I have used Ricor and Gold Valves in DR650 same damper fork set up as the DL


Ricors = Drain out the old fork oil, insert the Ricor assembly, top off with fluid and ride


Gold Valve = Remove, drain and disassemble the fork. Drill out the damper rod, stack the Gold Valve shim stack (directions are marginal) drill out the GV as specified and them reassemble the fork, insert the Gold Valve, top with new fork oil and ride.


The Gold valve is more work because the disassembly of the fork and stacking the GV shims but honestly I disassembles the fork when I installed Ricors to make sure it was sparkling clean inside. Certainly not needed its just what I do so I know exactly what I have and how it was completed. Disassembling damper rod forks is not hard and only takes a few minutes once the oil is drained to have it in pieces.

GV's work better in dirt and by dirt I do not mean groomed fire roads I mean C class and up single track.

Ricors work better on pavement providing less front end dive upon breaking.

When I had my DL and was toying with the ideal of suspension upgrades for the fork I would have went with Ricors. When I bought my DL I put street tires on it as I knew it would only see pavement.


In short any insert/cartridge/valving add over stock will be an improvement as damper rod suspension is limited in what you can make it do. As said you will see an improvement but do not expect your newly set up fork to be comparable to $5,000 Ohlins USD fork.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was just wondering about the operational differences between emulators that you just drop in vs those that require a a damper rod modification. They both do the same thing -- change what device is controlling the flow of fork oil. How do the drop in dampers stop the damper rod from working?
 

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Check out this Race Tech page: https://racetech.com/HTML_FILES/DampingRodForks.HTML Good explanation. Every manufacturer will have differences in how the valves actually work and how it should be installed. The Race Tech Gold Valve emulators work well but you have to modify the damping rod to suit.
 

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See Post #2. Ricor does not require to disassemble the for or modify the damper rod. They use lower viscosity fluid. You need however to replace the top spacer with a shorter one (PVC pipe) to compensate for the cartridge under the spring. Quite effective and easy to install.
 

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I have Cogent DDC's in my 04 DL and in my Super Sherpa. I will soon put them in my DR650. Very pleased with them. They override the original damper function by using a much lighter weight oil than stock.
 

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I'm heavily into off-road riding with the 650 and looking at options for front end suspension upgrades.
I will be watching this closely.......:nerd:
 

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From experience.

You WANT to disassemble the fork. Even if new, you are probably wanting different fluid and a good bit stays behind no matter what. Second, modifying the damper rod is simply drilling a larger hole where there is already a hole.

You probably need and want new springs.

It is easier than you realize to pull the fork legs off the bike. Jacking it up securely is the only thing that takes some thought. Remove the wheel, brake calipers, fender. Loosen clamps on triple tree, slide out fork tubes. Not rocket science to work on the inside. Cutting new spring spacers, which can be done from schedule 40 plastic pipe, is the about all the work that requires any real thought to get right.
 

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Reassmbling the fork is where real thought is required. Hardware/washer/parts stacking. Seal driving, adjusting fork alignment, setting sag and compression can all be difficult if you don't follow instructions precisely.
 
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