StromTrooper banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I royally toasted my clutch... the #4 plate was damn near disintegrated, and several others had lost their pads. I even had to replace one of the steel plates. I'm attributing this to never doing a pushrod adjustment in 23k miles. Anyway, the new clutch is in, debris removed from the crankcase, cooling system sorted, and I rode it to work as a test drive this morning. All-in-all it was ok... no leaks from the cooling system or the clutch cover case. My main problem is that I have no neutral at idle, only when I'm at speed can I get it, and it's kinda tough to downshift... is this a cable adjustment?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,571 Posts
Was the clutch operating mechanism adjusted after the clutch was replaced?
Tough downshifting can be because the shifter bell crank was taken off the spline end of the shifter shaft and put back on in a different location on the spline. Now the bell crank can't travel far enough to complete the downshifts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh yeah, you can be sure the pushrod was adjusted, heh. I'm just wondering if I should tighten up the cable a bit...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
solved... just went out and jinked with the cable and all seems well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,571 Posts
solved... just went out and jinked with the cable and all seems well.
Gettin jinky with it? Everything from the clutch lever on down to the clutch is the clutch operating mechanism, and to work well it must all be adjusted in a sequence. If you have a manual, the procedure they give is excellent. If you don't have a manual:jawdrop:, let it be your next farkle:thumbup:
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top