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Discussion Starter #1
everything has been working fine, never a problem

history

59,500 miles due for major service in 500 mile
at last service approx 3k ago, mechanic told me clutch lever is getting sloppy

been riding on some pretty crappy conditions lately getting slush, salt, sand into everything

I keep my bike in heated basement when not in use , today I went for ride stopped at sons house a few hours, bike sat outside parked for several hours at temps hovering just below freezing (heat wave)

go to leave, clutch feels funny, like it binding, notice one of my autocom cables looked like it was chafing against the lever, I move it out of the way, clutch still feels funny, stiff, put bike in gear, let clutch out, bike does not move, does not even begin to engage :confused:

next, remove slave cylinder.... argh, all kinds of "winter crud" around the pushrod, clean it up, put it back togeather, still doesn't engage

hmmm I think, maybe it has moisture, and because it's been parked in the freezing sitting still for longer than it has since summer, maybe it had some frost sticking the slave, I push bike into sons garage, we turn heat on and go into house for about an hour (safety meeting :beatnik:) go back out, bike is warm, try again .... no dice, still doesn't engage

I'm still thinking that my gunked up slave is stuck and will not retract when released, lever doesn't feel right cause its so sloppy

but I've seen "clutch basket" threads on the forum, I kinda wonder what the symptoms are of clutch basket failure

when I first put bike it geat when oil is still relatively cold, the bike lurches as if its gonna go, but let the clutch lever out and nothing, one time I thought I felt it begin to grab, but still nothing

not going to fix it myself, its going in for my 60k service, on next tuesday (dealer is closed sunday/monday) I'll either load it on my truck and bring it to dealer or have them pick it up

just wondering what I might be getting into, hopefully, no more than a new slave or slave rebuild

I do know that I need a MAJOR kleaning/detailing






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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Is there still any / sufficient fluid in it? That or perhaps the system needs a serious bleed.
full, and the problem isn't engaging the clutch, it's disengaging, I can easily shift from neutral into the gears.... release clutch and does not move.. it has never slipped

fwiw, fluid change is one of the maintenance items I have had planned at my 60k service, even though full, it is somewhat dark compared to my brake fluid



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I would change the fluid in the clutch system. Dark means it got hot at some point. Any Moisture in the engine oil? Here in Maine been well below the freeze point. I always heard from buddys that if the clutch doesn't slip, it is good to go!

Hope you get the issue solved.
 

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It does sound like you need to replace the slave cylinder.

Car brake calipers routinely fail in this way -- corrosion happens on the piston and after a while the piston won't retract and the brake starts dragging.

Slave cylinders are down there in the muck, plus they're at the very bottom of the hydraulic system, so that's where any water inside the system will go.

If you were penniless or stuck in the middle of the Gobi desert, you could probably disassemble, clean up the corrosion on the slave cylinder and piston, and ride on for a while.

In this case, it might be cheapest and best to simply replace the slave assembly, especially if you're paying someone to do the work. On Partshark.com, it's $78.33. Not too bad.

It also appears that the piston for the slave cylinder is not available separately. Given that the problem is likely corrosion on both the slave piston and the slave cylinder, you run the risk that the piston is too pitted to clean up and salvage. I'd definitely replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It does sound like you need to replace the slave cylinder.

Car brake calipers routinely fail in this way
so don't bike calipers if you ride in conditions that I do, fwiw, I also had to replace the cable actuater once in my SV650 for the same reason,

today I'm going to see if I can clean it up enuf at least so that I can ride it to

:hurray::hurray:
phone just rang, it was my son, he went out into his garage and started my bike, clutch is working now, now I just have to get ride to go pick it up



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Randy,

The problem is simple and obvious. It's the bike's way of saying, "Nooooooooo, don't make me go out in that cold again!!!!!!"


:mrgreen:
 

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Hey Randy,
Have you ever had the clutch slave, and countershaft sprocket cover off and seen how the arrangement works?

My guess (purely a guess) is that you've got some water to the exposed side of the clutch slave and the pushrod where it goes through the seal and into the crankcase. You've got hydraulic force to push the rod in which is overcoming the springs in the clutch and only the springs in the clutch returning the pushrod and slave cylinder.

In fact, the 'mushy' feeling of the clutch could be due to the pushrod not being pushed back and the free moving clutch slave trying to work against nothing, because the pushrod isn't up against it there's no (very little) force. No force at the working end means no force at the drive end (clutch master/lever).

It's also possible that the salt has corroded that nice, shiny section of the pushrod...


Sorry, just 'thinking out loud' so to speak...






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Henry,

You may be on the right track. I want to say that I remember reading a post where the build up of gunk around the push rod caused it to bind and not let the clutch engage.
 

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full, and the problem isn't engaging the clutch, it's disengaging, I can easily shift from neutral into the gears.... release clutch and does not move.. it has never slipped

fwiw, fluid change is one of the maintenance items I have had planned at my 60k service, even though full, it is somewhat dark compared to my brake fluid
Dark means moisture in the fluid.

Your description mentions parking in a heated space. Going repeatedly from a very cold
environment to an inside heated space is the prescription for condensation... even inside
your hydraulic clutch system. Ice particles would probably take hours in the garage to
completely thaw and permit functionality.

I would empty the old fluid from the master brake cylinder reservoir, fill with new fluid,
and bleed the clutch system. The new fluid should help renew rubber parts and seals.
Let sit overnight to absorb moisture missed during the first flush. Bleed it again. With
a little bit of luck, that's all you'll need to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I would empty the old fluid from the master brake cylinder reservoir, fill with new fluid,
and bleed the clutch system. The new fluid should help renew rubber parts and seals.
Let sit overnight to absorb moisture missed during the first flush. Bleed it again. With
a little bit of luck, that's all you'll need to do.
fwiw, fluid change is one of the maintenance items I have had planned at my 60k service, even though full, it is somewhat dark compared to my brake fluid
brake fluid was flushed and renewed recently, clutch fluid was flushed and renewed about a year ago, I change it annually as a matter of course, it's not dark, but as I described... somewhat dark compared to the brake fluid that's new , ya it's time for a change, something I was planning before this happened anyway

problem with my clutch was NOT moisture in the fluid, but moisture in the non hydraulic side of the slave



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I think the issue is more than likely all the factory warning stickers you still have on your bike.:mrgreen: Seriously Randy.......WTF?
 
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