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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so we all know the Wee won't let you engage the starter without pulling in the clutch lever; even in neutral. I've had my 2011 Wee for about a month and this fact has been driving me crazy. So, I set about fixing that. :thumbup:

Disclaimer: This post is for illustrative purposes only. You do this mod at your own risk. If you destroy your bike or run over small kittens and nuns after doing it, I am not to be held responsible.

Now, I know that you can't just jumper the switch, because the EFI uses it as part of its idle strategy. Looking at the schematics, it appears that the clutch switch (when the clutch is pulled in) supplies ground to the starter relay and pulls a computer pin to ground through a separate lead to the computer. Cool, so I just cut the lead coming into the starter relay and ran it to ground. See photos:


The starter relay. The black with yellow stripe is the one we want.


I clipped the wire down near this connector...


and put an eyelet connector on it.


Seal up the other end. This still leads back to the clutch switch and also the computer.


All grounded and happy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Works...

So... how does it work? Great! :hurray: I can walk out to the bike with my helmet in hand, insert the key, engage the ignition and start, all with one hand.

No idle problems at stoplights or anything.

The system won't let you run the engine with the bike in gear and the side stand down, so I consider this a fairly sane mod. Worst case scenario, the bike will lurch forward, but it's not going to drive away. :fineprint:

efzee

ETA: Another way of attacking this would be to get a connector that you replace for the black/yellow wire one in the four way connector at the starter relay. You could run that new wire to ground and just seal up the old. Then you could swap the old one back in without having modified the original harness. I'll post the info I found about the connector in my next post.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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That will work. I never thought of doing it that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
As near as I can tell, the connector for the starter relay is a Furukawa 4-way. Eastern Beaver appears to have the connector (or ends if you want just those), 10th down on this page?:

FKWH

You could make your own wire to ground with this, but to do it right I think you need the correct crimper and I figured if I was going to hand crimp, I'd just hand crimp a regular old eyelet. I did solder the eyelet and then put heatshrink over the connection.

Another solution I can think of is to get someone to sell you a wiring harness from a wrecked wee. Then you'd have plenty of extra wires with nice crimps and seals already. :mrgreen:

efzee
 

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seems like a very handy and easy mod for someone that would want to be able to do this! :mrgreen:

my previous bike i could start without pulling the clutch in, and at times it was nice...but i don't think i will be doing this to my wee...i'm already used to having to pull in the clutch anyways...

very nice pictures and write up though! :thumbup:
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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People doing this need to remember they did it.:mrgreen:

If the bike develops running problems, check the clutch switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
People doing this need to remember they did it.:mrgreen:

If the bike develops running problems, check the clutch switch.
True! I guess this mod would kind of mask a disconnected or damaged clutch switch.

I looked into integrating the neutral indicator with this mod, so that the clutch would be required for all but neutral starts, but it started to get too complicated. :thumbdown:

efzee
 

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My story.........About a month ago while on a three day ride my '11 Wee (16,000 miles) wouldn't crank one morning. A pump or two of the clutch lever got it to crank normally. For the trip's duration I experienced varying degrees of this situation. One time it wouldn't crank no matter how many times I pumped the clutch lever. Tugging on the wiring connector finally got it to crank. For some reason in the week or two after I got home the problem refused to show up again but I decided that I should replace the clutch switch anyhow. I ordered and received it from my local dealer. When I attempted to change the switch the small phillips head mounting screw would not budge. In fact the soft screw head quite easily rounded off. Being that I had a new switch I decided to cut the old switch out of there so that I would be able to grab the little screw shaft with a small vice grip and back it out. Suzuki decided to use some thread locker so when I went to back the screw out it broke off into the clutch perch......way to strong a thread locker for backing out such a puny fastener. Maybe I would have fared better to first remove the perch and work on the bench....but I didn't. After a search I found this thread and followed efzee's method of bypassing the switch. So far so good. Being that the switch was specially ordered (and obviously an electrical part) I don't expect the dealer to give me a refund. Maybe he will allow me to trade it back for a few oil filters but if not I will post it in the for sale section for half price......if no running problems occur.
Thanks again efzee.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I didn't really check the diagram before. Connecting the B/Y wire to ground is the same electrically as jumping the clutch wires together. It can cause idling problems on 2007 and later 650s.
 

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So, GW.....I'm certainly no expert but if I may attempt to understand......permanently grounding the B/Y wire going into the starter relay (as efzee did) and leaving the clutch switch connector disconnected will have the same effect as jumping the clutch wires together?
If that in fact is the case, I'm not overly excited about having to remove the clutch perch and drill out that tiny broken fastener. Nor do I really want to replace the perch if I'm not able to extract the broken fastener properly. Would it be acceptable to mount and use an automotive grade momentary switch connected to the clutch switch wires in place of the regular clutch switch? It seems that the OE clutch switch is not so great anyway.
Thank you
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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B/Y to B/W(ground) has the same effect no matter where it is done. Using a momentary switch to connect the two only when pressing the starter button seems to work fine. It may increase emissions when standing with the clutch held in. Whatever purpose Suzuki had for the clutch switch to send information the the ECM won't happen.
 

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After breaking my perch and bridging the wires I had all the problems. I installed a momentary switch and in 600 miles I have had no issues. I'm still waiting for the drz perch to arrive so I can get my left mirror back.


Sent from Motorcycle.com App
 

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My story.........About a month ago while on a three day ride my '11 Wee (16,000 miles) wouldn't crank one morning. A pump or two of the clutch lever got it to crank normally. For the trip's duration I experienced varying degrees of this situation. One time it wouldn't crank no matter how many times I pumped the clutch lever. Tugging on the wiring connector finally got it to crank. For some reason in the week or two after I got home the problem refused to show up again but I decided that I should replace the clutch switch anyhow. I ordered and received it from my local dealer. When I attempted to change the switch the small phillips head mounting screw would not budge. In fact the soft screw head quite easily rounded off. Being that I had a new switch I decided to cut the old switch out of there so that I would be able to grab the little screw shaft with a small vice grip and back it out. Suzuki decided to use some thread locker so when I went to back the screw out it broke off into the clutch perch......way to strong a thread locker for backing out such a puny fastener. Maybe I would have fared better to first remove the perch and work on the bench....but I didn't. After a search I found this thread and followed efzee's method of bypassing the switch. So far so good. Being that the switch was specially ordered (and obviously an electrical part) I don't expect the dealer to give me a refund. Maybe he will allow me to trade it back for a few oil filters but if not I will post it in the for sale section for half price......if no running problems occur.
Thanks again efzee.
Where is it posted for Half price?
 

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Ok, so we all know the Wee won't let you engage the starter without pulling in the clutch lever; even in neutral. I've had my 2011 Wee for about a month and this fact has been driving me crazy. So, I set about fixing that. 👍

Disclaimer: This post is for illustrative purposes only. You do this mod at your own risk. If you destroy your bike or run over small kittens and nuns after doing it, I am not to be held responsible.

Now, I know that you can't just jumper the switch, because the EFI uses it as part of its idle strategy. Looking at the schematics, it appears that the clutch switch (when the clutch is pulled in) supplies ground to the starter relay and pulls a computer pin to ground through a separate lead to the computer. Cool, so I just cut the lead coming into the starter relay and ran it to ground. See photos:


The starter relay. The black with yellow stripe is the one we want.




Where is the starter relay located?
I clipped the wire down near this connector...


and put an eyelet connector on it.


Seal up the other end. This still leads back to the clutch switch and also the computer.


All grounded and happy.
 
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