[Indianaboyd]

Hello,
I've had my wee about a week now and finally got all of the legal stuff out of the way (registration, plate & insurance). I took it out for a short ride this afternoon and noticed a clacking sound when first starting off and accelerating to speed. I thought this might be a case of using incompatible oil (previous owner) and getting clutch slippage, so I changed the oil and filter (Shell Rotella T 15W40). I took it out again, but no change.
I looked through some threads on clutch problems, but most seemed to be related to the V (chudder). One thread dealing with a similar problem on the Wee suggested that this may be caused by worn sprokets/chain. I looked at the chain and sprockets on my bike and other than a little too much play in the chain, everything appears to be OK. The bike has almost 14 K miles on it. I don't know that much about the previous history, but the bike doesn't look like it has been abused. Is it possible that the clutch may be damaged? If the previous owner did use the wrong oil, will the clutch recover over a period of time (after the residual additives work their way out)?

Thanks,

 

[greywolf]

A slipping clutch is indicated by a rise in engine rpm without a corresponding rise in speed. It will not normally cause a noise. You need to more closely examine the chain and front sprocket. A new chain measures 12.50" between a separation of 20 pitches/21 pins. A chain worn to 12.57" needs to be replaced. 7/100" longer over that span is the wear limit. Looking at the chain is not enough.

 

[jasonslay]

I agree. It sounds like your problem is more than likely the chain/sprocket interface. You mileage is not atypical of needing a new chain either. Slightly on the short side, but definitely in the "worn-in to worn-out" phase if the chain hasn't been taken care of. My bike made the same noise when my chain was going out. New chain, now it is quiet. I would suggest changing the chain and sprockets and trying that out. If that doesn't fix your problem, at least you have a fresh chain.

 

[Indianaboyd]

Thanks guys. I checked some other threads and it looks like 525 chain/sproket set from SV Racing is popular. With only 14K miles on the bike, is it necessary to replace the sprockets or can I get away with just the chain? I don't see any shark fins on either sprocket.

 

[ladukebob]

I recommend replacing the sprockets with the chain. My chain was making some pretty serious noise's at 12,000 miles. Probably due to me riding a lot of miles of dirt and gravel. Was amazed at how much quieter things got after the replacing everything.

 

[larry0071]

I'm going to agree and say that likely the chain has at least one very stiff link. Put the rear up in the air via the center stand or by putting a floor Jack under the rear shock and you can use the Jack, side stand, and front tire to get the rear up.

Now sit down beside the swing arm on the chain side and slowly roll the tire forward. Watch the chain as it comes from the small radius of the front sprocket for a link that is not relaxed and inline with the run of the chain. You're looking for the link side-plates that are in a V position. Use your hand and try to manipulate this ate of the chain, your feeling for exceptional resistance to the link movement. You can sometimes clean and lube the chain and save it, so give it a try.

 

[greywolf]

If a link is sticking and causing a kink, the pin is micro welding itself to the bushing and breaking the tiny weld spots every rotation. There is no longer a smooth interface in there. An O-ring chain keeps external lube away from the pin to bushing interface as well as it keeps sealed in lube from coming out. If a chain shows kinked links, I'd replace it.