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Discussion Starter #1
I have 22k miles on my 2014 Vee and the clutch is starting to slip pretty bad. Any thoughts? I this the normal life? Do I need a full basket or just springs? I do a good amount of low speed cone competitions so it maybe a little premature wear but I change my oil every 3k and just did so 1k ago with the same oil I have always used. Looked for another thread but could only find this one which is not an OEM replacement.
https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000a-2014-2016/424637-clutch-basket-fix-all-dl1000s-should-consider.html
 

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No, it isn't normal. It would be the first case of worn plates not caused by some other issue if indeed they are worn.

Probably something like the clutch slave cylinder sticking. Or the clutch pushrod. I assume you have not changed levers?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have not changed my levers. My bike always has shifted smooth and still does. It just spins out now when rocking the throttle back which might just be the springs are shot and not the plates worn. Keep in mind when I'm riding cones, I am in the friction zone for sometimes hours.
 

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No, it isn't normal. It would be the first case of worn plates not caused by some other issue if indeed they are worn.

Probably something like the clutch slave cylinder sticking. Or the clutch pushrod. I assume you have not changed levers?
I have noticed over the past few weeks the clutch is not disengaging until far out on the lever. Seems further out that it used to be so maybe the slave cylinder sticking is a valid point? I changed the hydro fluid about 8K ago and its worked great for the last 8K until today.
 

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I have noticed over the past few weeks the clutch is not disengaging until far out on the lever. Seems further out that it used to be so maybe the slave cylinder sticking is a valid point? I changed the hydro fluid about 8K ago and its worked great for the last 8K until today.
I'm a little confused with your wording. Are you saying that as you release the lever it used to engage the clutch closer to the handlebar and now is only doing so near when you would let go of the clutch lever?


How is the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder? Has it been dropping?

Could anything be interfering with the lever?

..Tom
 

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To expand on what V-Tom said, hydraulic clutches don't change engagement point as the discs wear. Hydraulic clutches are self adjusting. If the clutch isn't taking up till much later in the lever travel, something is wrong. To be honest, these clutches ALL take up way late compared to most other bikes.

Unless brutally slipping the clutch, even feathering it in cones should not wear it out in that many miles.
 

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Steve, yours may well be a special case because of the "abuse" doing the cone riding. But before you take the clutch apart I would disassemble the slave cylinder and see if that is the culprit or not. Get a rebuild kit before you do so. If the piston and cylinder are in decent shape, lube all and re-assemble.
And make sure the clutch lever pivot as well as the engagement with the master cylinder piston are well lubed.

And a final thing to try: When in the gear where you experience the slipping, pull in the clutch lever (not under acceleration or deceleration) and let the lever flip back out. Do that a couple of times and see if that makes any difference to the slipping.




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One other thought which I doubt will apply:

While I was learning how long chains and sprockets last I once went too far on a front sprocket. Suddenly the bike felt like the clutch was slipping but it was the chain slipping over the worn out sprocket. Unlikely this is your issue but it wouldn't hurt to take a peek at the front sprocket if nothing else inexpensive is found.

..Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
You guys are all awesome which is why I belong to this group! All your suggestions provided me hints on what the problem might be. I ended up fixing it and now it works like the day it came off the lot! I have been doing a lot of off-road lately and a ton of grime was built up around the clutch push rod right behind the clutch release cylinder. There is a little weep hole right under the push rod inside the front sprocket cover that was plugged causing the buildup. After a thorough cleaning the clutch now engages right off the grip like it used to. Can't beat a zero dollar 30 minute fix!
 

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You guys are all awesome which is why I belong to this group! All your suggestions provided me hints on what the problem might be. I ended up fixing it and now it works like the day it came off the lot! I have been doing a lot of off-road lately and a ton of grime was built up around the clutch push rod right behind the clutch release cylinder. There is a little weep hole right under the push rod inside the front sprocket cover that was plugged causing the buildup. After a thorough cleaning the clutch now engages right off the grip like it used to. Can't beat a zero dollar 30 minute fix!
I had a feeling this was your issue, the Zuk hydraulic clutch design isn't the best. I recommend cleaning behind the front sprocket area at every oil change, as it will get gunked up back there pretty quick depending on lube type and riding habits. :fineprint:
 

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If you plan on continuing to do cones you should consider dropping one tooth from the front sprocket.

I don't do cones but I love the change it made to my bike.

I also fitted a PCFC and after a custom tune on a dyno I went from 29ft lbs @ 2200rpm 49ft lbs, that allows me to drop the RPM's very low and still be able to move away.
 
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