[johanbackman]

Seems to have a bike built on a very early monday morning.

Bought a k7 half a year ago with 42000 km and only after 2000 km I had to replace the throttle body assembly for around 1000 euro. Now I seem to have problems with the clutch.

When the bike is warm and I push it and give full gas I hear the engine rev up to 10k rpm but the clutch is slipping so the acceleration is kind of "smooth". Its almost like a scooter feeling. It happens mostly on gears 3 to 6 but also on 2nd gear.

I suspect the clutch is worn down, but I am surprised I must say. It has not done many km, so I can't understand why. And the clutch cable is adjusted to its most released position, the adjustment screw is all the way in.

Any ideas?

Johan

 

[griffin800]

clutch

Clutches don't last forever and you have no idea how the bike was ridden before you bought it.

Do yourself a huge favor and pull the clutch early rather than wait till it gets worse. If you do it early you may only have to replace the friction plates and not the steels, lots less money that way. Ride it long enough with a slipping clutch and you will burn the steels to the point that they arn't useable anymore and have to replace all of them. Almost doubles the cost.

Bill H.

 

[SittingDuck]

Assuming you have the correct amont of free play at the clutch lever, and your cable isn't super-tight, and your clutch pushrod thingy is adjusted right as well, then yes, it sounds like your clutch is slipping.

But check those things out first...

 

[StromTech]

Could it be energy conserving oil was used at the last oil change?

 

[Ruggybuggy]

Could it be energy conserving oil was used at the last oil change?

Yup! Wrong oil or an additive can do it.

 

[OydnaR]

first thing to do is adjust the clutch

don't just fiddle with cable freeplay

the clutch adjustment is under the sprocket cover

98% sure that's your entire problem, the clutch on the Wee is very robust and should easily last 100,000 or more km



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[johanbackman]

Wrong oil?

Ok guys, many thanks for all the comments.

I did an oil filter and oil change quite recently but what I cannot understand is how that can affect the clutch. I did put in a 10-40 oil according to the manual, but I did not have the 80 euro to buy the 5 liters I wanted so I went for a cheaper 20 euro bottle. But how does this thing work actually, how can the oil affect the clutch?

 

[StromTech]

Don't want to turn this into an oil thread but in a nutshell our motorcycles have a wet clutch where the clutch plates are immersed in oil. Some oils make the friction plates in the clutch slippery so that the clutch doesn't engage properly when shifting gears, or the clutch slips when the engine exceeds a certain torque. Some oils contain friction reducing chemicals. One element of the JASO-MA standard is a friction test designed to determine suitability for wet clutch usage. An oil that meets JASO-MA is considered appropriate for wet clutch operations. Oils marketed as motorcycle-specific will carry the JASO-MA label

edit: most of the above was borrowed from wikipedia

 

[Ruggybuggy]

\edit: most of the above was borrowed from wikipedia

SHH! We all thought you were smart up to that point! :mrgreen:

 

[johanbackman]

Oil change again then...

Ok, I did some "studying" as well, so I've realised my mistake now.

Went to find some ELF 10-40W oil meeting the standards for bikes with wet clutch (it even says "reduce clutch slipping") and will replace the oil this eve. I intend to just drain out the old oil, take off and empty the oil filter and then fill up with the new oil.

Would that do it or have I done more damage to my clutch, ie is it sufficient to replace the oil or will I have to take it to a dealer to clean it out?

 

[Mike92]

Hard to say. 10k clutch slippage is not good for things. You will just have to try the oil change and see.

 

[johanbackman]

SHH! We all thought you were smart up to that point! :mrgreen:

Well I must admit I pressed the send button before I found the same description on wikipedia...

I have changed the oil now and will take it for a ride and hopefully the problem will be gone. It only happened 4-5 times and just for a few seconds each time so I hope the clutch has not been too damaged by it and that the new ELF oil will clean out whatever was there of the wrong oil.

I will report back...

 

[StromTech]

I think you will need to park the bike until my next trip to Paris and I'll pop over and ride it for a week or so around France and get the slickness out of it for you...LOL

Seriously, I think you should be fine with the new motorcycle oil.

 

[StromTech]

SHH! We all thought you were smart up to that point! :mrgreen:

I would not have looked too smart if someone else posted the Wiki words and pointed out my plagiarism...:mrgreen:

 

[johanbackman]

SHH! We all thought you were smart up to that point! :mrgreen:

And I completely missed the point, because I thought "you" was referring to me...

Anyway, thanks for pointing me in the right directions, and I will see tomorrow if it works.

@stromtech: I think I will have to try it myself first... ;-D

 

[seuadr]

:disclaimer: :this worked for me, but your results may vary, widely. try at your own risk:

I had an 82 suzuki GSX1100G that i did the very same thing with, with similar symptoms. What I did was: drain the oil completely, fill the crank case up with kerosene and let it sit over a weekend and then drained that overnight and re-filled it with proper oil. It worked well for me.

I made sure that before i even thought about starting the bike the oil level was proper and fogged a bit of oil in each cylinder by removing the spark plug.

I put another 10k on that bike before selling it with no issues and the current owner has experienced no issues that i am aware of.

it is something to think about, at least as a last resort before taking it to a dealer.

 

[johanbackman]

Too much

:disclaimer: :this worked for me, but your results may vary, widely. try at your own risk:

I had an 82 suzuki GSX1100G that i did the very same thing with, with similar symptoms. What I did was: drain the oil completely, fill the crank case up with kerosene and let it sit over a weekend and then drained that overnight and re-filled it with proper oil. It worked well for me.

Well this seems to be a little too much for me right now. I will take it to the dealer on Friday to let them sort the things out.

I did around 100 k today, 50 km to work and then back and it works but I still have the problem, maybe even a little bit worse this eve than in the morning, possibly because the engine was warmer. It seems to get worse when it is warm. So probably I ****ed it up all by myself and cannot fix it.

Have a couple of other problems as well, so I will just let them sort it out.

Thanks for all help though...

 

[OydnaR]

Ok guys, many thanks for all the comments.

I did an oil filter and oil change quite recently but what I cannot understand is how that can affect the clutch. I did put in a 10-40 oil according to the manual, but I did not have the 80 euro to buy the 5 liters I wanted so I went for a cheaper 20 euro bottle. But how does this thing work actually, how can the oil affect the clutch?

10-40 car oil is not whats making yer clutch slip, if you used 0w20 , maybe a little

yer clutch is out of adjustment



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[SittingDuck]

You're sure that you checked the free play at the lever?
And you're also sure that your clutch is properly adjusted, right?

 

[griffin800]

car oil

Car oil with the friction modifiers can indeed make the clutch slip.

There's lots of evidence of this. Car oil without the modifiers though won't bother it.

Bill H.