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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need some help here..
I bought a CCK-302 kit for the clutch slave on my KLV1k 2004.
The only thing I can't get is where does the flat rubber piece (bottom left in pic) go? The other three (spring, seal and bleed-cap) are quite obvious to me..
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Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I believe that is the dust boot that goes into the motor right before you install the slave cylinder.
So it means i have to pull the front sprocket, and remove the retainer behind it?
 

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Agree that it's likely what Suzuki calls the "dust cover". The pushrod goes through the hole.

Part 25A in this: Suzuki DL1000 V-STROM 2002 CLUTCH - MSP

No need to remove the front sprocket or any other major surgery to replace this part.

Edited - I now see that it's a kit for a 2004 KLV1k. I can't find the parts fiche for that bike, so take the above with a grain of salt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Agree. It's what Suzuki calls the "dust cap". The pushrod goes through the hole.

Part 25A in this:
The thing is, its flat! Its not "cone-shaped" as the one that goes into the clutch piston.. 2316602F20 is the 25A in the picture, and if i google it, the results doesnt match the seal i got..

Edit: @BackPacker The KLV1000 2004 is exactly the same bike as a DL1000 2004.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Okay, in that case, could it be the seal between the front sprocket cavity and the engine itself? Part 34?
The same thing there, my seal doesnt have the "flange" that goes behind the retainer.. Im baffled..
 

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Im baffled..
I googled for CCK-302 and apparently this is a Tourmax kit, but not for the 2004 DL1000 or KLV1000, but for a variety of GSF/GSX bikes. See Clutch Slave Cylinder Repair Kit Tourmax CCK-302 : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive for example.

That Amazon site also shows the four part numbers that are included in the kit. Three of the four (piston ring, spring and dust cap) I can find back on the DL1000 parts fiche, but part number 09285-06015 (the first in the list) is not on the parts fiche for a DL1000. It's only used as an oil seal on a variety of other bikes - see 0928506015 Seal,oil Part Suzuki - MSP So I would not worry about it and chuck it in the bin.
 

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Oh, by the way, when you do do the clutch repair, take a good look at the inner surface of the slave cylinder. The bit where the piston seal slides against. If you did not change your hydraulic fluid often enough and it absorbs water, then this surface becomes corroded and pitted. That will prevent a good seal no matter what you do.

If the pits are not too deep you might be able to sand/polish them out, but generally you'll need to write off the whole assembly if this is the case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oh, by the way, when you do do the clutch repair, take a good look at the inner surface of the slave cylinder. The bit where the piston seal slides against. If you did not change your hydraulic fluid often enough and it absorbs water, then this surface becomes corroded and pitted. That will prevent a good seal no matter what you do.

If the pits are not too deep you might be able to sand/polish them out, but generally you'll need to write off the whole assembly if this is the case.
Thanks a lot for all your research and advise! I have read somewhere that the kit had DL1000 listed as compatible bike.. I reused the old rubber that mounts to the piston with the pushrod through it..
I fixed the clutch slave a week ago, and I did everything you advised me to! The surface wasn't too bad on either the piston or inner surface.
I haven't owned the bike for long, so this was my first clutch fluid change.. and there were a lot of gunk in the slave cylinder...
But now I think I'm golden again! 😃👍🏻
 

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Note you can also slip something like fuel hose over the clutch push rod and pack that with grease. Needs to be a loose fit. That avoids gunk building up on the rod and ensures long term smooth clutch action.
From memory gen 2 1000, 35mm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Note you can also slip something like fuel hose over the clutch push rod and pack that with grease. Needs to be a loose fit. That avoids gunk building up on the rod and ensures long term smooth clutch action.
From memory gen 2 1000, 35mm.
Thanks! I will put that on this winters to-do list! 👍🏻

Edit: this got me thinking.. maybe a rubber piece like the one in the pic below (for bicycle V-brakes) could be perfect! It will cover the full exposed length of the pushrod and compress?
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I think that would work. You will have to check that it clears the chain though.

If it does work and is a readily available part, could you please post the part number and where to get it? I'm interested too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I think that would work. You will have to check that it clears the chain though.

If it does work and is a readily available part, could you please post the part number and where to get it? I'm interested too.
Absolutely! I will take a trip to the local bikeshop and see what they got.. The part i am googleing right now is Y8AA42000.
But having looked at them a bit more, i am not sure they will fit loosely over the pushrod so the rubber boot will be able to move. But I will investigate further.
 

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Maybe you'll need to cut that small-diameter end off, just a bit. It looks like that has the diameter of a brake cable, and you'll need slightly more. On the other hand, if that small end sits at the slave cylinder end, there is no movement there and it may actually help the boot to remain in place. The wider end then butts against the oil seal allowing pushrod movement but at the same time the harmonica effect would still create a fairly good crap-proof seal.

I think there's actually a fairly good chance this will work. Let me know the outcome. My own bike is not due for a service soon otherwise I'd spend the 3 euros and try this out myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Maybe you'll need to cut that small-diameter end off, just a bit. It looks like that has the diameter of a brake cable, and you'll need slightly more. On the other hand, if that small end sits at the slave cylinder end, there is no movement there and it may actually help the boot to remain in place. The wider end then butts against the oil seal allowing pushrod movement but at the same time the harmonica effect would still create a fairly good crap-proof seal.

I think there's actually a fairly good chance this will work. Let me know the outcome. My own bike is not due for a service soon otherwise I'd spend the 3 euros and try this out myself.
Been to the local bikeshop, but no luck. He didnt have anything in stock. I have a couple more places to look locally before i order online. I will let you know as soon as i have had a chance to do so. Going away for a few days, last long trip with the KLV for the season.
 

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That section stays a fixed length. 35mm of loose fitting rubber hose will do it. (gen 2 1000 it was 35mm from memory)

And the accordion is probably too fat anyway, it'll get cut by the chain. Serious, rubber hose with a larger ID than the push rod is all that's needed.
 
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