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Discussion Starter #1
I had my V2 apart to change the front sprocket for a 16t and as with all these bikes the clutch push rod was covered with crap so I made a small spring loaded cover to help keep the crap out of the seal.

I is just a light weight spring about 1&1/4" long with some heat shrink shrunk over it.

When I pulled the cover off mine I found the seal had been pushed into the gearbox some by the previous owner, keep the spring light as there is no stop on the seal and it can be pushed into the gearbox if too much pressure is applied and the spring needs to be big enough that it will not pass through the hole in the plastic cover.

Just slip the saver over the push rod before you put the plastic sprocket cover on the refit the slave cylinder.



The photo of the heat shrink after it was shrunk over the spring and when in place will not up load sorry, you will work it out quite easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Fuel line may not be best.

When you pull in the clutch leaver it applies pressure to the clutch cylinder and the cylinder is pushed outwards so the gap between the cylinder and the seal around the pushrod grows and shrinks so the cover needs to grow and shrink along with it, now the problem is there is no stop behind the pushrod seal at the motor so that seal can easily be pushed into the motor if the cover is not flexible enough.


A short piece of tube would slide back and fourth helping to keep things clean but it may not be a total solution.


I have made my own rubber seal that I have glued to the face of the original pushrod seal, it is a little larger than the original so the seals can not be pushed into the motor, this is added security and a second seal to prevent crud getting through to the original seal.

There are a few posts on this forum where others have used different materials to make a cover, have a search you may find a solution more to your liking.
 

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I use a very soft rubber compressed air hose, if I remember right 35mm long. Hose is 3/8" id (10mm) and about 16mm od. So far so good.
 

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Update after 17k miles:

So after 17k miles I needed to change chain and sprockets and inspected the pushrod. It had a 35mm long (confirmed the length!) soft rubber hose (compressed air hose) as protective sleeve and that has worked very well. Only a little surface rust on it. No muck or dirt inside the hose or on the pushrod!

To combat the rust in future, when re-mounting I coated the rod and the inside of the hose piece with dielectric silicone grease. I also put another dab of that grease under the rubber cover of the slave cylinder. Will see how well that performs over the next xxk miles.
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I wonder about using a spare rubber bellows boot like what is used on the rear brake caliper over the bolt that holds the caliper down... Probably too short, but something along those lines would be soft, flexible and unlikely able to push the inner seal into the gear box...

I just had mine apart to change the sprocket. It had crap on it but not excessive. A single wipe with the shop rag pulled it all off. Next time it is open I might try putting something over it.
 

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If you use a hose 35mm long there won't be any pressure that's the clearance between the seal and the inside of the cover. You can doublecheck with a caliper.

A rubber bellow of sufficient length (say 40-45mm) so it will press a little against both sealing surfaces should also work well.
 

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I just had mine apart the other day for the first time at around 13k miles. I was replacing the brake and clutch fluids and figured i'd take a look. It wasn't to bad for dirt build up. I think if a person was to clean it every 10k they would never have an issue, that little hose though would likely mean you could go between sprocket changes without cleaning. I'll likely add one when it comes time to do my chain and sprockets.
 
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I think the degree of potential problems with the clutch pin and slave depends very much on the riding conditions and how much chain lube (and what kind) is used. I use an oiler but forget often so my chain is kind of dry and after 17k there was little but rather dry and crusty deposit around the counter sprocket area. That would not be a good situation for the pushrod seal if unprotected, I think.
 

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I cleaned the front sprocket area last weekend. 30,000k's and it was pretty full of oily gritty crap.

Did essentially the rubber tube trick above based on my experience with the 650. The win is that you don't get dirt sticking to the pushrod and being driven into the seal.

The difference before and after is pretty amazing, the clutch is smooth and the release instant now where there used to be a slight lag.
 

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I did 60kkm on my dl1000A and i had to replace the seal once due to my foult. While i was replacing the front sprocet i pulled the cluch rod all the way out ant let the gunk and debri get in to the seal. Realy i dont see a reason to try to prolong that seals life. But that just me.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Changing a seal at home is a easy job but doing it in the middle of nowhere is not, so keeping it in good condition makes sense to me.
 

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I'm leaning on 22k miles and it's the first time I've took a look at mine. I'm prolly not as faithful as V-Tom and a few others pertaining to cleaning my chain but I'd say I'm not very far from it. I don't have a chain oiler but its certainly on the list. I'm quite surprised it's not worse than it actually is even though it's not pristine. Ha!

My question is, from what you can see, what's your opinion on the front sprocket? In my opinion, it's not bad at all and it's still pulling very well. Everything feels good up and down the gears.

Also, I've heard WD40 is what most ppl been using to clean the gunky grim?

60 degrees here in Owensboro today! I should be riding instead of cleaning!
Happy HoHo and Merry 2020 Y'ALL.
 

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That sprocket looks good to me.
 
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