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Could anyone tell me what symptoms will show when a person is approaching a clutch rebuild? I have a 2008 Wee with 23K on the odo.
 

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what are you experiencing now that makes you think you might need a rebuild? I've been told that these clutch plates are going to last a loooooong time, so definitions of "clutch rebuild" will vary person to person. If you are experiencing shaking, chudder, jerky release, bronco takes-off from a stop, from your clutch as the mileage on the ODO increases, I'd advise you email or call Terry at Werks Parts -- he's on this forum as RealShelby. My 08 Vee was at about that mileage and I simply could not stand it any longer. Nothing I did could smooth it out. I talked with and emailed Terry. Best money spent on anything on my bike to have him rework the bearing surfaces, etc... on my clutch basket.
 

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Needing clutch work at 23k miles would be very unusual. If you do a lot of stop and go riding, you'll need to adjust the play pretty often.

I have 119k miles on my original clutch, and it doesn't noticeably slip.
 

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I have well over 20,000 miles on my 2012 DL 650. Clutch has never been adjusted since I set the lever freeplay when new.

It is easy to screw up adjusting these clutches, meaning they do not have adequate play in the mechanism. That can burn up clutch frictions.

If you notice clutch slipping a moment when shifting gears, or engine rpm flares up when going wide open throttle that is a sign of clutch issues. Especially in 4th, 5th, and 6th gear.
 

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The clutch release mechanism on that model is behind the sprocket cover, easy access. Same as the early SVs. Go to SVRider.com and look for Andy Auger's Clutch Mantra, best write up I've ever seen for the adjustment procedure.
 

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I have well over 20,000 miles on my 2012 DL 650. Clutch has never been adjusted since I set the lever freeplay when new.

It is easy to screw up adjusting these clutches, meaning they do not have adequate play in the mechanism. That can burn up clutch frictions.

If you notice clutch slipping a moment when shifting gears, or engine rpm flares up when going wide open throttle that is a sign of clutch issues. Especially in 4th, 5th, and 6th gear.
It's worth noting that the 2012+ 650s use a very different mechanism to disengage the clutch. https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/detail/suzuki/23200-11d00/b1060006?m=147586&sch=508028

The previous mechanism is much sloppier and prone to wear.
 

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As a long shot, is your clutch cable by any chance starting to unravel at the upper nipple. That will make you think something is up with the clutch. Why do I know? If all is well when you inspect make sure that rotating nipple inserted in the lever is well lubricated!
 

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Could anyone tell me what symptoms will show when a person is approaching a clutch rebuild? I have a 2008 Wee with 23K on the odo.
We might be able to give you actual useful advice if you tell us what makes you think you have issues.

My 2006 DL650 has the original clutch when I stopped riding it with over 125,000 miels.

Issues I had were:

-Broken Clutch Cable

-Arm on adjuster (inside front sprocket cover) came loose when spot weld broke making me think clutch was a problem

-Bent clutch levers from falling over causing various issues.

But never an issue with the clutch itself.

..Tom
 

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Or someone put car oil in the bike ?.

The clutch my my gen 1 DL 650 lasted 80,000k's with horrific abuse, gen 2 130,000k's though I did have to dive in and adjust the clutch free play on that one @~20,000k's.

I'll concede it's not obvious initially, lack of acceleration, particularly lack of punch out of the corners without any other issues is the giveaway.

If you do refresh it, new springs matter even more than new friction plates.

Oh, and it'll be a bit of a bastard in stop-go traffic until everything beds in (About a month). They usually won't change gear while stopped for a 1000k's or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all of the information gents. I have been having a little bit of trouble getting into first gear at stop lights and did not know why. I adjusted the clutch cable within the last 500-750 miles but I do a good bit of stop and go riding. Looking at what Fox posted, maybe I just need to adjust the cable frequently. Having installed a pair of grip puppies, it could be that they ate up some of my clutch lever travel and I am not fully disengaging when pulling in the lever. The big thing is that I definitely won't need a clutch rebuild for quite some time based on all of everyone's input.

Thanks again.
 

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Adjusting your clutch cable is only half of the remedy.
You also need to adjust the clutch itself. See this thread. https://www.stromtrooper.com/v-strom-service-maintenance-questions-discussions/63042-clutch-adjustment-help-2.html

It is also good to ensure that the clutch cable and clutch lever move freely. There is no way at 23k that your clutch plates should need replacement.

p.s. It's easier to help with your bike and year included in your avatar or signature, and yes, I do see it in your first post.
 

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The dragging at the lights thing is the main clutch adjustment (as above) adjusting at the bars won't deal with it. It's not hard on that generation 650 but when you do it also undo the cable top and bottom and make sure it pulls back and forwards smoothly. If it feels stiff or worse grabs at certain points also replace the clutch cable.

Clutch drag with a NEW clutch is pretty normal as everything hasn't bedded in, but on a bike with 20,000k's it's almost always due to the clutch not having been set up properly from the factory - or maybe caused by a high spot at one point that's finally worn down. I had to do this adjustment on my gen 2 @~20,000k's and it was fine until I rebuilt it @130,000.

I currently have the same symptoms as you - impossible to change gear when stopped at the lights but in my case I know it's simply 'new clutch' (and a much beefier clutch) and it's slowly getting better not worse.
 

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Worn "clutch plates" will cause it to slip not drag like you are experiencing.

Proper adjustment is what you need.

A worn "clutch basket" will make it harder to get the plates to separate so will cause clutch drag and a hard lever pull.

The basket will have high and low points warn into it, they can be smoothed out fixing the drag or by replacing the plates they will sit in a different position on the basket so things feel and work better for a time.
 
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