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Clutch Question

3418 Views 13 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  AZ081000
On my new-to-me '08, the clutch engages/disengages with about a 1/4" pull of the clutch lever. While this does make for nice quick shifts I am wondering if this is a sign that the clutch discs, springs are near end of use.
Since I have never had a clutch wear-out on a motorcycle in all my years, thought I would ask you guys.

I just did the Werks clutch basket mod, but did not measure the clutch disc as Terry's comment that the discs last forever, so I did not measure them. They all looked fine.

Has 39k miles on the odometer; I have only put about 150 miles on it since getting it.

Comments requested...
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The first generation DL 1000 has one of the latest takeup points for the clutch of any bike. Meaning you let the lever out a long way before it starts to move. It also releases sooner than average.
This is all normal. Discs and springs would have no effect on this.
What many owners overlook is maintenance on these bikes hydraulic clutch actuation system. If the bike jumps forward when putting it in first gear, really grinds ( more than normal) going into second, or seems to want to pull forward when in gear, that means the actuation system is needing work! Flushing and bleeding yearly is worth the time. If that gives little relief, common for the slave cylinder to become pitted from corrosion and it needs replaced.
If you want to change the feel of the clutch takeup, look up "Clutch Lever Mod" here on this site....
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Like Terry said, the clutch is hydraulically actuated. Due to the way it's designed, it's self-adjusting. Which means that the clutch lever pickup point will remain the same throughout the lifetime of the clutch plates: It automatically compensates for wear on the plates.

The way it works is that when the lever is not pulled, there's an open circuit between the clutch master cylinder reservoir and the clutch slave cylinder. Both the clutch springs and a tiny spring inside the clutch slave work to keep all the components pressed together. The amount of fluid in the slave is therefore automatically adjusted to the thickness of the clutch plates: With new plates there's a lot of fluid in the slave, and when your plates wear the fluid is slowly pushed back into the master reservoir.

As soon as you engage the clutch lever, the open circuit is closed and fluid is pushed into the slave. Via the pushrod this releases the clutch plates from each other.
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They all do that. It's annoying.

The GS has the same problem but their clutch master cylinder has an adjustable release point so at least you can get the working range within the reach of your fingers.
OK....all good to know.
Yep, I know about the hydraulics being self-adjusting and how the master works and all.
I am just surprised at this engagement point....yes quite annoying it is. Does not let one "feather" the clutch much with such a short range.
I am going to search on the "clutch lever mod" that Terry mentioned.

Thanks for the responses.....such a great knowledge base here!
Check to see if this mode was not perhaps done on your ride, Clutch Lever Mod
Nope, the clutch lever mod has definitely not been done. The engagement is as Terry describes in the "before" condition.
Something to do this Winter.
I sought out aftermarket levers with more adjustability to get my friction zone where I needed it. Worked like a charm.
Trivia I learned at a dirt school weekend: ADV clutch lever action is designed to function with fingers remaining wrapped on the bar
Does not let one "feather" the clutch much with such a short range.
Luckily with the gobs of torque from this engine feathering is rarely required. :)

And as PlugnPlay mentioned, the engagement zone where it is allows 2-finger clutching without crushing the other two with the lever, but that's not a technique everybody wants to adopt. If you really do want to move the friction zone to a more familiar location, aftermarket adjustable levers are the answer.
I did the "clutch lever mod" that RealShelby mentioned. Very easy to do; used a Dremel tool with a diamond grinding disc, removed about 0.5mm off the end of the rod that goes into the brass bushing in the lever. Have yet to try it out due to weather, hopefully this week.
Went for a ride....that little off did nothing. So I removed it again, removed about 1/16" off total. Went for a ride; difference is slight, but noticeable...but still too high from what I am used to.
Will remove it and take another 1/16" off...see how that does. Rain coming in so will be a couple of days.
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Sooooo true!!!!
When I first took off for my test ride, I thought I had taken enough off, but the longer I rode, stopped, started, I decided it was not quite enough yet.
Takes all of about 10 min to do. Lots of checking with the ruler to determine amount removed.

Took another 1/16" off....that is just right!!!!
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