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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

Was working on replacing my clutch seal due to oil leakage and also issues with my clutch engagement. Dl1000 05 65k. I noticed a few things on the process and have some questions.

The rubber on the slave is broken which I knew before. Does it call for slave replacement or can I just get the rubber? Also the bolt with the spacer which holds the slave had the seat broken.

I think the stator cover gasket is sticking out a bit where the seal retainer tab stick in. Is that normal?

The seal retainer and the clutch seal was not concentric.

Should I replace the push rod? Looks pitted on the slave side.

Thanks.


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Yes. Replace the shaft it's not expensive. I tried getting by on mine by cleaning it up. It leaked more. Replace the seal also. The corrosion beats up the seal just enough.
If the slave is not leaking then just replace that dust boot.. well I would since your ordering other parts.
* Careful with that slave mounting boss* It can be repaired. But it's a little bit of a pain getting the spacer the correct thickness. You have enough left..just be real careful. Push the piston back in by hand with the reservoir open. Try not to put any excess stress on the boss. That's what I do anyway.
Here's my boss.
 

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If you plan to keep the bike, new parts all around.

I don't know how you damaged the bolt threads but you need to get that sorted. Otherwise, the slave will not mount square and the push rod will just deform the new seal and result in another oil leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes. Replace the shaft it's not expensive. I tried getting by on mine by cleaning it up. It leaked more. Replace the seal also. The corrosion beats up the seal just enough.

If the slave is not leaking then just replace that dust boot.. well I would since your ordering other parts.

* Careful with that slave mounting boss* It can be repaired. But it's a little bit of a pain getting the spacer the correct thickness. You have enough left..just be real careful. Push the piston back in by hand with the reservoir open. Try not to put any excess stress on the boss. That's what I do anyway.

Here's my boss.
Well fk, guess where this came from.The inevitable happened.
Need to think how to mess with the boss and get an insert in there. Any tips??


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How much depth is left? Can you use a helicoil? I'd try that if possible. If not, I think you need some welding done.

I am guessing a previous owner inflicted this damage?
 

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Well fk, guess where this came from.The inevitable happened.
Need to think how to mess with the boss and get an insert in there. Any tips??


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I used a helicoil. I decided against a timesert because of the rough surface of my damaged case. Plus it's a lower torque for the slave, it's a pita to tear the engine out to get it welded then machined and expensive!!
Suzuki left meat behind the boss to drill deeper. I cant remember how much. But it was enough to do the repair with a regular tap as opposed to a blind one. Plenty of depth for the 9mm deep insert.
I felt confident in my drilling of a straight hole because I was cabinetmaker for 15 plus years. I've got a ton of practice, but I was still a little nervous keeping it square.
My helicoil is staked in place (as recommended by them)
You have an advantage over my repair..well maybe. You still have part of the boss keeping the spacer in place and the slave level.

Helicoil says its stronger than original threads
In the pictures you can see how I kept everything square based on the flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
How much depth is left? Can you use a helicoil? I'd try that if possible. If not, I think you need some welding done.



I am guessing a previous owner inflicted this damage?
Yeah. But it had been ok for 20k since until I decided the once time to torque it to spec!!
Dont know how much is left but apparently it was enough. I have to take some measurements this weekend.

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I used a helicoil. I decided against a timesert because of the rough surface of my damaged case. Plus it's a lower torque for the slave, it's a pita to tear the engine out to get it welded then machined and expensive!!

Suzuki left meat behind the boss to drill deeper. I cant remember how much. But it was enough to do the repair with a regular tap as opposed to a blind one. Plenty of depth for the 9mm deep insert.

I felt confident in my drilling of a straight hole because I was cabinetmaker for 15 plus years. I've got a ton of practice, but I was still a little nervous keeping it square.

My helicoil is staked in place (as recommended by them)

You have an advantage over my repair..well maybe. You still have part of the boss keeping the spacer in place and the slave level.



Helicoil says its stronger than original threads

In the pictures you can see how I kept everything square based on the flywheel.
Well that is comforting to know that welding can be avoided. Spoke to some and they said the engine would have to be torn and baking was needed.

I'll measure the depth to see how much it is to begin with. The half boss is a definite pita if I have to drill a bigger hole and keep it straight. I'll have to drill the boss too!!

Is that a Male to female standoff to replace the boss u used?

I have had suggestions to use jb weld/ some epoxy to fill/form the boss all over and then tap it.
I friend of mine(a designer) suggested to use an M6 stud and stick it in the hole without drilling (the part that I am tended about) or tapping and epoxy the whole thing. Then I'll use a nut to retain the slave and never mess with the stud.
The boss helps only if I am to use epoxy to fill. But I have zero experience using it.



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Yeah. But it had been ok for 20k since until I decided the once time to torque it to spec!!
Dont know how much is left but apparently it was enough. I have to take some measurements this weekend.

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Been there done that; have a partially-stripped bolt hole on the lower part of the stator cover.

I don't torque to spec on anything below maybe 15 lb-ft any more. It's too easy to miss the click and strip something.

I use blue thread locker and go "hand tight" on the clutch slave bolts. They do not really need to be torqued to spec, the important thing is (as discussed) to get the thing square.
 

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Well that is comforting to know that welding can be avoided. Spoke to some and they said the engine would have to be torn and baking was needed.

I'll measure the depth to see how much it is to begin with. The half boss is a definite pita if I have to drill a bigger hole and keep it straight. I'll have to drill the boss too!!

Is that a Male to female standoff to replace the boss u used?

I have had suggestions to use jb weld/ some epoxy to fill/form the boss all over and then tap it.
I friend of mine(a designer) suggested to use an M6 stud and stick it in the hole without drilling (the part that I am tended about) or tapping and epoxy the whole thing. Then I'll use a nut to retain the slave and never mess with the stud.
The boss helps only if I am to use epoxy to fill. But I have zero experience using it.



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There are a few ways to go about this for sure. I thought of epoxies but gravity will be fighting the repair. I don't have any experience with epoxy putty (possibly gravity friendly) so I didn't want to experiment on this.
I went with a m6 X 23mm stud. Then a metric hex coupler on top that I ground to the correct length so the slave would sit square.
Once I determined that there was enough metal behind the broken boss, I had to decide between tapping and messing with a larger diameter screw or just go deeper with the original diameter OR heli-coil. I went with a metal insert once I read it's stronger than tapped aluminum. I think either will work ultimately. The insert seemed better to me. I'm not an engineer or mechanic, who might have seen something different. I'm just mentioning that because there might be a better way- I just didn't see it.
I'm just grateful that it can be repaired without spending a bunch of money or time. I feel I caught a break!
 

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Oh, if you can leave the partial boss intact and get a slightly longer bolt you will save time. You will be able to use the oem spacer. Messing with a coupler and stud is just more involved. It was necessary for my repair, hopefully not for yours. At least you know of a solution either way.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Oh, if you can leave the partial boss intact and get a slightly longer bolt you will save time. You will be able to use the oem spacer. Messing with a coupler and stud is just more involved. It was necessary for my repair, hopefully not for yours. At least you know of a solution either way.
Thanks for all the tips man!!
Yes, definitely I'll leave it intact to begin with.

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While you're at it, trim away the excess gasket material below the pushrod seal. You can see it sticking up in the close-up photo you posted above. Doing so allows that muck collection area to drain a little better.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So an update on my issue. Below are the awesomely bad ways of doing it.

1.I tried the jbweld way i.e no retapping/helicoil and that shit didn't hold at all. I used an m6 stud and a nut to hold the clutch slave.

2. After that failure, I used another stud on the stator cover bolt hole and had a small steel bar cut that holds the previous m6 stud in place and again the nut to hold the slave. This worked for a while until the stud in the stator hole bent and I could shift at stops.

3. After giving up on life and my back job ways I decided to do things right.
I tapped the hole bigger from an m6 x 1.0 to a m8 x 1.0. The half broken boss was a pita and I decided to bore it out using a dremel. Since I now only have the engine block to put my threads in, I drilled may be 3mm more than OEM. I managed to get maybe 6 threads in there.

Then bought some adapters to go from m6 to m8 such the I dont have to mess with the new tap everytime I remove the slave for maintenance.

I drilled the clutch slave to make up for my awesome tap job. And I also drilled an extra hole where the clutch slave aligns it self with the stator cover. And the stator cover has an unused tapped m6 right beneath it!!

Now it seems to be working fine. I still need to change the clutch slave.





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Use the rest of your JB Weld to fix your rotor magnets while you're in there...
 

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Use the rest of your JB Weld to fix your rotor magnets while you're in there...
Ah shoot, all locked up. Not until it gets loose . Is there something concering that you see? Is the jb weld preventive?

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Ah shoot, all locked up. Not until it gets loose . Is there something concering that you see? Is the jb weld preventive?

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Whoah! I can see from your last pic, your stator magnets have migrated. Open that sucker back up and deal with it now or potentially you'll have to replace magnets (almost impossible to source) and stator. None of that do you want.

The magnets should have about a 1/4" gap between them. Yours don't. The epoxy has failed and they have shifted to one side of the rotor.

Sorry for the bad news.

Maybe you have more comprehensive pics you can look at to confirm.
 

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Whoah! I can see from your last pic, your stator magnets have migrated. Open that sucker back up and deal with it now or potentially you'll have to replace magnets (almost impossible to source) and stator. None of that do you want.



The magnets should have about a 1/4" gap between them. Yours don't. The epoxy has failed and they have shifted to one side of the rotor.



Sorry for the bad news.



Maybe you have more comprehensive pics you can look at to confirm.
Dayyum!! Tha ks for the heads up. The attached pic is from 5 months back. How bad does it look?

They are touching though as you said.

I am looking at other posts about this and it seems the magnets have moved!!

Just when I thought things are back to normal.



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