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Al...you don't have to break the clutch hydraulics to replace the lever; just remove the pivot bolt. When installing the new one, the clutch master cylinder actuator plunger just slides into a slot in the lever. Reinstall pivot blot and you're good to go.
That was the easy part; the hard part is deciding if you want to buy an OEM Suzuki replacement lever, or some after-market manufacturer, and if you want it as long as the stock one, or shorter (and less prone to break in the future).
The OEM lever is about $45.00 from Oneida Suzuki or any of the other OEM part suppliers. Plus you pay shipping. There are many, many different after-market brands on e-bay or just google DL1000 clutch lever. In fact, I think there is a good thread right here in this great forum on alternative levers (but I'm too lazy to search!).
Personally, I'm not replacing any more clutch/brake levers with OEM. Too expensive, too long, and too easily broken to justify. I smoothed off the broken end of my last broken clutch lever and eventually will replace it with a shorter version whenever I get some spare $$.
Good luck with whatever choice you make!
That was the easy part; the hard part is deciding if you want to buy an OEM Suzuki replacement lever, or some after-market manufacturer, and if you want it as long as the stock one, or shorter (and less prone to break in the future).
The OEM lever is about $45.00 from Oneida Suzuki or any of the other OEM part suppliers. Plus you pay shipping. There are many, many different after-market brands on e-bay or just google DL1000 clutch lever. In fact, I think there is a good thread right here in this great forum on alternative levers (but I'm too lazy to search!).
Personally, I'm not replacing any more clutch/brake levers with OEM. Too expensive, too long, and too easily broken to justify. I smoothed off the broken end of my last broken clutch lever and eventually will replace it with a shorter version whenever I get some spare $$.
Good luck with whatever choice you make!