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One common question about the hydraulic clutch on a DL 1000 is that the takeup point, or where the clutch starts to move the bike forward as you release the lever, is very close to the end of the levers travel. It is not a mechanical problem, once you know it will not cause the clutch to slip most just get used to it and don't think about it. But I ride other bikes and the difference in takeup points is enough that I found myself really wanting to do something about it. Below is a pic of the lever at rest for reference:

This is a pic of the approximate takeup point after the modification:

This is a pic of the pushrod as it sits in the brass bushing of the lever. The pushrod is held in the master cylinder by a rubber bellows. The larger rounded end goes into the master cylinder. Make sure to grease the brass bushing when reinstalling it.:

This is a pic of the pushrod after modification. Make sure to remove material only from the smaller diameter post that fits into the brass bushing! Take a little off at a time, reinstall it and find a point that you like. My final overall length of the pushrod was 1.36 inches. This mod makes a big difference in the ability to modulate the clutch for low speed manuevers!
 

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Thanks heaps realshelby for that fantastic suggestion and photos to match.
:thumbup:
I thought that lever replacement was my only hope but your mod is the way I'll go.

You can't imagine how happy I am that I asked. And it wont cost $s.

great stuff.:hurray:

Wayne.
 

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A question please.

By doing the mod, will it create freeplay in the clutch lever once the clutch is engaged .i.e will there be slop/movement in the lever when fully extended???

Many thanks

Petey

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 

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How about converting into wire pulled clutch ?
Think I read about it somewhere, but can't remember where.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
A question please.

By doing the mod, will it create freeplay in the clutch lever once the clutch is engaged .i.e will there be slop/movement in the lever when fully extended???

Many thanks

Petey

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
Petey, there is more movement. Similar to what a cable clutch lever will have. I have had no issues with the switch making contact. I don't even notice the "slack" when riding. Nothing negative to report, I have put about 1500 miles on it since. Huge difference in feel of the clutch like when doing tight u-turns, etc.

Just don't get carried away with how much you cut off! A little goes a long way and it is so easy to do you won't mind putting it together a few times to test it.
 

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I performed this modification today.
:thumbup::thumbup:
It was very easy. I removed around 2mm from the length of this small shaft, put it all back together and it worked just fine for me. Even with this small amount of material removed it was enough to make a significant difference to the operation of the clutch lever. For me, with my hand problem, it's operation was pain free for the first time since buying the bike. And if cost nothing.

Because the clutch lever does not actually change it's rest position there is a small amount of freeplay before you actually get to activate the clutch. But it is only freeplay and requires almost no pressure / effort to pass through this minimal area. This was, previously, the area where I was experiencing pain in my hand.

I thoroughly recommend this mod to anyone with say an injury or small hands or both like myself.

Thanks again to realshelby for this suggestion.

Cheers and happy travels,
Wayne (True Blue)
 

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Fantastic idea and mod for the DL1000

First let me say I when I was out for a ride today I found my clutch lever took quite a bit more effort than I remember. I was wonder if I was getting weaker in my old age (56)? After searching this great forum, I came across this mod and remember see it before but deciding against it because I didn't want the "extra" play at the beginning of the lever stroke. Then I read in another thread that while the aftermarket levers made things better, the actual force to engage the clutch was the same. So I decided to go ahead with this mod figuring if I didn't like it I could just order another new pushrod piece and try after-market levers.
I went on the cautious side and only removed 2mm. Most importantly, I cleaned up the entire lever assembly removing old grease, polishing with Scotchbrite and steel wool all the pivoting surfaces. After putting everything back together with plenty of fresh waterproof grease and I took the bike out around the house for a few blocks. It felt like a new clutch. I felt no looseness at all. There is a spring in the lever adjusting knob that I believe helps keep the slack from shortening the pushrod to a minimum. The clutch engagement point is closer to the bars so it will take some getting used to but the effort was decreased by at least 30-40% or so it seems. From beginning to end the job took me about 30 mins and I'm not pro mechanic by any stretch of the imagination. Thanks so much for the information. I would suggest this mod to anyone wanting to improve and ease the clutch pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hogsniper, glad you appreciated the mod! While it technically won't change the actual clutch lever pressure needed to actuate the clutch, the fact that your fingers get a much better hold on the lever sure gives it a LOT better feel.
 

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I also did this mod on my Vee last year...simple, excellent, elegant solution... And if you screw it up by cutting too much off, replacement pushrod is six or seven dollars.

BTW...after a winter of not much riding everything is harder to move...including the rider; I'm 59 :)


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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One common question about the hydraulic clutch on a DL 1000 is that the takeup point, or where the clutch starts to move the bike forward as you release the lever, is very close to the end of the levers travel. It is not a mechanical problem, once you know it will not cause the clutch to slip most just get used to it and don't think about it. But I ride other bikes and the difference in takeup points is enough that I found myself really wanting to do something about it. Below is a pic of the lever at rest for reference:

This is a pic of the approximate takeup point after the modification:

This is a pic of the pushrod as it sits in the brass bushing of the lever. The pushrod is held in the master cylinder by a rubber bellows. The larger rounded end goes into the master cylinder. Make sure to grease the brass bushing when reinstalling it.:

This is a pic of the pushrod after modification. Make sure to remove material only from the smaller diameter post that fits into the brass bushing! Take a little off at a time, reinstall it and find a point that you like. My final overall length of the pushrod was 1.36 inches. This mod makes a big difference in the ability to modulate the clutch for low speed manuevers!
THANKS for the visual, rs. i've been wanting to do this to mine since i've had it. :thumbup:
 

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Just to make sure I understand what this mod is doing, are you saying that this moves the start of the clutch engagement closer to the grip, with the full engaged point being the same (lever fully out), so that the friction zone is WIDER than stock? Or does this keep the friction zone the same and just move everything closer? So effectively the same thing that happens when you move the reach adjust knob from 1 to 4.
 

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Not a Mechanic

Ok I get what you are supposed to do but how do you shorten the rod? (Dremel, file) without goofing up the threads to screw it back in.

Thank you from all us non-mechanic types.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just to make sure I understand what this mod is doing, are you saying that this moves the start of the clutch engagement closer to the grip, with the full engaged point being the same (lever fully out), so that the friction zone is WIDER than stock? Or does this keep the friction zone the same and just move everything closer? So effectively the same thing that happens when you move the reach adjust knob from 1 to 4.
This mod does not change the friction zone. I think hydraulic clutches have a smaller friction zone than cable clutches and the Vee's is too far from the grip for me. Especially if you ride other bikes frequently that are more standard in clutch takeup. While the adjustment knobs do help, this mod goes further than they can.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok I get what you are supposed to do but how do you shorten the rod? (Dremel, file) without goofing up the threads to screw it back in.

Thank you from all us non-mechanic types.
There are no threads on the rod. I made my first cut with a Dremel tool with the abrasive cut off wheel. Then I used a file to fine tune it and dress the edge/square it. A little at a time is the way to go! For instance, start with just the width of the cut off wheel. They try it. Very easy to try it, you don't need to tighten everything down, just put the bolt back into the bracket/lever assembly and see what you think.
 

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Thanks!

Thanks Realshelby!!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
There will be a little "slop" as you call it. Seemed to me to be a lot less than a typical cable clutch. I never had any issues with the clutch lever switch or anything else.

The reason this works so well is that it allows your hand/fingers to get a much better grip on the lever before the tension picks up. Much easier to compress the lever with more of your finger on the lever instead of just the tips of your fingers. I rode in heavy Houston traffic and the position of takeup and the fact that the Vee has a rather heavy lever pressure required made my hand actually hurt after a while. This mod helped a lot.
 
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