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Discussion Starter #1
I'm in need of some help. I"m on a trip and have had some maintenance problems. One of the maintenances performed was a new chain and sprockets. After this was done I got on the road to continue my journey. But, the spedometer is now off another 10 mph an when I accelerate the engine surges and then drops down rpm as I gain speed. The chain is really tight too. Not sure if the sprockets sizes had been changed PO.

I'm from Illinois and now in New Hampshire. Are there any suggestions that I can try here on the road? Ant help would really help me out while I'm out on the road. Thanks
 

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Possibly

To change the sprockets on Vee's you need to remove the clutch slave cylinder. If someone botched the job, possible the clutch isn't engaging completely. If the chain is tight, fix it RIGHT NOW. If the chain runs completely out of slack under rear suspension compression, it puts tons(literally) of strain on the countershaft and sprocket. Chain won't last, and will probably do some very expensive damage. If you can't get enough slack with the rear-axle adjusters, either the replacement chain was too short, or the sprockets are non-stock. If a shop did this, take it back.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks

Don't suppose any of those services included an oil change with synthetic? If so, get rid of the sythetic. Don't ask me how I guessed that.
I changed to non-synthetic oil and the clutch is much better, but not perfect. There may be more to it, but this fix is getting me through.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sprockets and Chain are from Amotostuff.com

To change the sprockets on Vee's you need to remove the clutch slave cylinder. If someone botched the job, possible the clutch isn't engaging completely. If the chain is tight, fix it RIGHT NOW. If the chain runs completely out of slack under rear suspension compression, it puts tons(literally) of strain on the countershaft and sprocket. Chain won't last, and will probably do some very expensive damage. If you can't get enough slack with the rear-axle adjusters, either the replacement chain was too short, or the sprockets are non-stock. If a shop did this, take it back.
I had just beat the siht out of the bike (which I will put in my ride report when I am emotionally abel to re-live the story) and was able to make arrangements in New Jersey for repairs. When I got there the existing chain had to be adjusted almost all to way out. It was running poorly even after the chain adjustment, so I was able to have Amotostuff overnight both front and rear sprockets and a chain to the shop. I asked for stock, so I think that's what I got. As I posted above, changing to non-synthetic oil helped a lot, but it still surges a little if I twist the throttle hard. I will try to loosen the chain, but it doesn't look like there is much room. I thought that maybe what was on there was not stock because the spedometer is off way more than it was before the replacement. I can't get back to the shop but will do what I can. Thanks
 

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Don't suppose any of those services included an oil change with synthetic? If so, get rid of the sythetic. Don't ask me how I guessed that.
Let's get our facts straight. Synthetic oil is fine as long as it DOES NOT say "Energy Conserving" in the rating seal.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Think it was OK

Let's get our facts straight. Synthetic oil is fine as long as it DOES NOT say "Energy Conserving" in the rating seal.

I got the oil changed at a small Suzuki dealersip, so I think they would have used the right oil. I'm aout 1000 mi from home, so I was willing to try anything.

The clutch and shifting feel good, maybe a little smoother than before. The facts are that when I "gun it" the rpm go up then drop as the bike gains speed, and the rpm/speed are not what they were before. I would love to get to the root cause of this...
 

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I got the oil changed at a small Suzuki dealersip, so I think they would have used the right oil. I'm aout 1000 mi from home, so I was willing to try anything.

The clutch and shifting feel good, maybe a little smoother than before. The facts are that when I "gun it" the rpm go up then drop as the bike gains speed, and the rpm/speed are not what they were before. I would love to get to the root cause of this...
Sorry that I could offer no help with your problem. I just felt the need to correct lessismore_weeisme's misleading blanket statement about synthetic oil.

Hopefully, one of our knowledgeable members will show up with some helpful suggestions for you.
 

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r

Sounds to me like something is not right w/ the clutch slave/pushrod setup.
Changing the oil to a synth couldnt cause immediate slippage, if it ever could.
I would check the slave out to see if it might be partially holding the pushrod down, and take the sprocket cover off to see if the chain gunk that builds up on the pushrod is making the rod stick. Good luck:eek:
 

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Possible misadjustment of clutch cable after sprocket change?

With the sprocket cover off, looking at the cable when I pull the clutch, the cable moves immediately, but there is no resistance for about 1/3". If you get resistance immediately, try loosening it a bit.
 

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The 1000 has a hydraulic clutch control mechanism, not a cable.
 

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No it doesn't!

Just kidding -- sorry my mistake. I have the 650 and live in a tiny bubble
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It was the slave cylinder

Thanks to all for the help. I read MightyShep's post on cleaning the slave cylinder. Then I followed his instructions and cleaned off the push rod and the cylinder (they were filthy). The cylinder has two gashes in it and the rubber "cup" that goes around the push rod is missing. I installed the cylinder the other way with the gashes to the outside of the bike. Some things to fix when I get home. Thanks again for all the help.
 
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