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Discussion Starter #1
So I shot a video to show you guys what I was talking about in my other thread. I'm interested to see if your clutch behaves the same way.
I went to bleed mine right after I shot this video and of course the made-out-of-cheese reservoir cap screw heads stripped out :( ... I got one out, but the other one is so bad, I'm gonna have to cut a slot into it with a rotary tool and there's a good chance I'll damage the cap. So.. back-up cap is on order and I'll have to hold off on bleeding until it arrives.

 

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You need to dump your philips head screw drivers and get some JIS drivers, "you will never screw up again"

Jap bikes use JIS screws not phillips.

I like the vessel brand.
 

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Hard to tell from the video for sure. But I sense that is not far off from normal. It sure looks to me like the aftermarket levers are making your problem worse instead of better.

All years of DL 1000 have a very late engagement point compared to other bikes. There is a thread or two here about 2014+ DL 1000 clutches dragging, not fully releasing. Yours seems to be releasing cleanly. How it turns the rear tire on a stand with no weight on it really isn't relevant, there is always a bit of drag there.

I think the stock levers would work better, but I also think the modification to shorten the pushrod or grind the cams is the way to make it feel right.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hard to tell from the video for sure. But I sense that is not far off from normal. It sure looks to me like the aftermarket levers are making your problem worse instead of better.

All years of DL 1000 have a very late engagement point compared to other bikes. There is a thread or two here about 2014+ DL 1000 clutches dragging, not fully releasing. Yours seems to be releasing cleanly. How it turns the rear tire on a stand with no weight on it really isn't relevant, there is always a bit of drag there.

I think the stock levers would work better, but I also think the modification to shorten the pushrod or grind the cams is the way to make it feel right.
Hmm.. stock lever in closest-to-the-bar setting is still very far out when the clutch reaches full grab point. That makes it really uncomfortable for take-offs and stop-and-go traffic. Wouldn't grinding anything down accomplish the same thing that I am getting with the aftermarket lever? It's like adding another click to OEM lever to bring it closer in, no?

This just takes some getting used to. It's very different from any other bike I've owned. A long partial-grab zone with raised RPM (assist) and nothing really happening until it's nearly fully out.

Being a rider coach, I love to practice and demo slow speed maneuvers and u-turns. The feel of this clutch is making me explore new techniques, which ultimately is a good thing :)
 

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The only way to really tell is mount the stock lever and compare how your grip is. That aftermarket lever is made to sit level with the handgrip, but appears the ball end is further away than a stock lever when let out. Might just be the way it looks?

At any rate, look over this thread: Clutch Lever Mod

I think this is the only way you are going to obtain satisfaction. It appears the 2014+ DL 1000 has a similar push rod to actuate the clutch master cylinder.
 

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With my pazzo shorty levers set on 1, with the lever fully out, my little finger extends past the end of it about half an inch.
 

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Yeah, but that's relative to finger length

Haha yea, I'm 5'10, not a giant by any means, normal finger length. From the video posted above I think my fingers may be shorter than the OP.

Wrist to end of pinky is 6", does that seem long?
 

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I'm same height as you, but wrist to end of pinkie is 5.5"
Well you know what they say about guys with big hands.. (they need larger gloves).

Maybe my 32" inseam is also odd? I saw a guy in here someplace that was 6"2" and also has 32" inseam, so imagine this short guy, with super long legs and long fingers. I just need an oblong head shaved bald and people would start running and screaming about aliens.

All joking aside, it does explain why my finger reaches farther than yours, resume normal troubleshooting.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well you know what they say about guys with big hands.. (they need larger gloves).

Maybe my 32" inseam is also odd? I saw a guy in here someplace that was 6"2" and also has 32" inseam, so imagine this short guy, with super long legs and long fingers. I just need an oblong head shaved bald and people would start running and screaming about aliens.

All joking aside, it does explain why my finger reaches farther than yours, resume normal troubleshooting.
LMAO! Yeah it does explain it. Honestly, I think there's absolutely nothing wrong with my clutch. It's just very different from any other bike I've owned. I'm gonna bleed it as soon as new cap comes in (in case I destroy this one removing the stripped screw) and oil change may change the feel a bit too, but I'm not due for at least another 1.5k miles.
Really best thing to do is to just ride it a LOT to really get used to it!
 

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I have always thought hydraulic clutches don't feel a snappy as cable ones.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
I have always thought hydraulic clutches don't feel a snappy as cable ones.
My previous bike was 2015 FJR and it had a hydro clutch. It had a much more precise feel. No vagueness.

I did just bleed the clutch. (Managed to get the stripped screw out without damaging the cap!)
Fluid coming out looked clean and there wasn't a single bubble. I only opened the bleed valve 4 times (pumping the lever 3 times and holding it, before every purge). Since fluid coming out was clean and there was no air, it didn't seem like it would be beneficial to keep going.

Not expecting the clutch to feel any different after this. I'll report back after I take it for a spin.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Not expecting the clutch to feel any different after this. I'll report back after I take it for a spin.
Confirmed. No change in feel. I'm certain it's working as designed. Just requires a muscle memory adjustment on my part.
 
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