Clutch Engagement point

1640 Views 8 Replies 7 Participants Last post by Brockie, 2 mo ago

eduea

Discussion Starter · 2 mo ago

Hi all.

I've read some threads about the clutch adjustment, freeplay and so on, both on sproket or on the lever itself.

My point is that i like the clutch engagement at a higher point, meaning away from the grip, since I am used to engage the clutch with 2 fingers and don't really like having to pull the lever all the way to the grip in order to disengage.

Anyone has adjusted this way, is it possible or not recommended?

Since i just got the bike i just adjusted on the lever, which still gives the recommended freeplay and disengage at a higher point.

But i would like to make it properly and be sure i don't mess up anything.

I should then follow the manual or should i try to leave at the point i desire just in the sproket adjustment while leaving the lever adjustment all the way in?

If anyone has similar experience i appreciate.

Thanks

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twenty

· #2 · 2 mo ago

Just make sure the clutch is fully engaged with the lever out, no slipping.

If you have adjusted ALL the way out at the handlebars, I would run that one in almost all the way and make the adjustment down at the side case. This will give you some room for an easy no tools required adjustment out on the road if needed.

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eduea

Discussion Starter · #3 · 2 mo ago

Actually i just noticed mine doesn't have the adjuster on the sprocket, its at the cable

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twenty

· #4 · 2 mo ago

Correct, there's an adjuster at each end of the cable. The one at the handlebars does not require tools to adjust while the lower adjuster needs a few tools to access and adjust.

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locoblanco

· #5 · 2 mo ago

2012 to 2016 has the actual clutch adjuster inside the right engine cover, at the clutch basket. Unless the bike has been abused or has lots of miles on it, it won't need adjystment. The clutch lever free play should be adjusted as the manual describes, and unless you buy an aftermarket adjustable lever, that is what you are stuck with.
(Beware an aftermarket lever does not interfere with the clutch safety switch.)

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D.T.

· #6 · 2 mo ago

Mine has an adjuster at the clutch lever and an adjuster about a foot away from the clutch lever.

No adjustment at the motor.

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Motorpsychology

· #7 · 2 mo ago

locoblanco said:
2012 to 2016 has the actual clutch adjuster inside the right engine cover, at the clutch basket. Unless the bike has been abused or has lots of miles on it, it won't need adjustment. The clutch lever free play should be adjusted as the manual describes, and unless you buy an aftermarket adjustable lever, that is what you are stuck with.
(Beware an aftermarket lever does not interfere with the clutch safety switch.)

2017+ are the same way; the clutch rod is behind the engine cover, and oil & coolant need to be drained in order to adjust the clutch rod because V-Stroms don"t have a separate clutch rod cover. As the plates wear, the clutch rod will need periodic adjustment. The clutch rod will compress the plates less and less when engaged as time goes on and adjustment to make the gap bigger at full disengagement becomes necessary. How often depends on your riding environment; inner city with lots traffic signals or open Interstate with few shifts. The clutch lever should have ~1/8-3/16" (3-5mm) of free play before the clutch starts to disengage. Adjusting to less than that runs the risk of the clutch plates not fully compressing with the lever all the way out, especially as the weather becomes colder. More than 3/16 (5mm) and the plates may not fully disengage with the lever pulled all the way back.

If the clutch is slipping with the lever fully released, or if the bike still wants to move in gear with the lever pulled back, even with a properly adjusted cable, the clutch rod needs adjustment.

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Bikehigh

· #8 · 2 mo ago

eduea said:
Hi all.

I've read some threads about the clutch adjustment, freeplay and so on, both on sproket or on the lever itself.

My point is that i like the clutch engagement at a higher point, meaning away from the grip, since I am used to engage the clutch with 2 fingers and don't really like having to pull the lever all the way to the grip in order to disengage.

Anyone has adjusted this way, is it possible or not recommended?

Since i just got the bike i just adjusted on the lever, which still gives the recommended freeplay and disengage at a higher point.

But i would like to make it properly and be sure i don't mess up anything.

I should then follow the manual or should i try to leave at the point i desire just in the sproket adjustment while leaving the lever adjustment all the way in?

If anyone has similar experience i appreciate.

Thanks

I have my engagement point practically all the way out, like I think you are talking about. You mentioned not pulling the lever to the bars, I only do this when coasting or at a stop. The glee is such an easy shifting bike, that I rarely do more than tap the clutch lever shifting either up or down. Having the engagement point all the way out helps this a lot. I can't say that I pay a lot of attention to which adjuster I have where, because it's rare that I ever touch that.

FWIW, though I don't use the knuckle guards, I do have the adjuster and boot that come with that kit installed, and I run a set of adjustable shorty levers too. Just pay attention to the free play, and there's no reason you can't set things up your way.

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Brockie

· #9 · 2 mo ago

So long as there is still SOME slack in the cable there will be no issue. People have their preferences. For instance, I prefer to adjust the maximum amount of slack from my throttle cables. I find the bike more controllable on/off throttle that way.
Do it.

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