Is your cable still tight? Loosen your cable adjustment all the way before making that adjustment then adjust the cable otherwise your not going to get everything tighter.
Clutch assembly / adjustment
at the end of last years riding season, i wanted to check my clutch and clutch adjustment because my clutch cable was near the end of it's adjustment. (now i realize that doesn't have anything to do with the adjustment at the clutch itself). but, anyway, i now see that i don't have enough throw in the clutch release arm. There is a lot of play there before there is any resistance.
So, my question is this... the service manual says to go one full turn out before locking down the nut. This seems like too much. Anyone have experience with this?
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So, my question is this... the service manual says to go one full turn out before locking down the nut. This seems like too much. Anyone have experience with this?
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So you have the clutch cover off?
I've gone through my clutch at least 3 times and never had adjust that lock nut.
Not sure what the problem is.
The clutch won't disengage when the lever is pulled in?
You can adjust the cable at two points.
I've gone through my clutch at least 3 times and never had adjust that lock nut.
Not sure what the problem is.
The clutch won't disengage when the lever is pulled in?
You can adjust the cable at two points.
I'm pretty sure it was loose when I did this, but I'm going to have to pull that cover again and verify.
No, I put it all back together and put oil and coolant in. And then the clutch wasn't disengaging. My first time working on a clutch. Didn't think to verify operation before putting the cover back on.So you have the clutch cover off?
I've gone through my clutch at least 3 times and never had adjust that lock nut.
Not sure what the problem is.
The clutch won't disengage when the lever is pulled in?
You can adjust the cable at BOTH ends.
This afternoon I drained the oil and checked the clutch lever / cam mechanism. Everything looks fine there. So, I'm going to have to drop the coolant and pull the clutch cover.
Agreed. Sucks not having the coolant separate. I drained both the oil and coolant into clean containers. I'm going to reuse since they're both new.Did you put it together correctly?
View attachment 314205
I usually drain the coolant through the lower oil cooler hose. This is a PITA job. Should have a separate clutch only cover.
I have the service manual, and it looks to be assembled correctly. Took it all apart yesterday, and put it back together. Adjusted the clutch cable. The clutch releases some, but it's not as free as it should be.
I think i'm going to order a new clutch cable, since I'm at the end of adjustment anyway.
@LazyRs Thanks for all the info. I think I'll replace the springs, just because I'm in there. I don't want to have to open this again for a while. The clutch plates are fine. I measured them the first time I opened it.
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This got me thinking. I recall the "thinner" plate on the outside. And I thought that's what my service manual showed. But, when I look at the parts diagram, it shows the thinner plate on the inside next to the thin spring washer. So, I'm pretty sure that's my issue. I have the thinner plate on the outside. I will have to verify what the service manual says... I probably just read it wrong.
Clutch is fixed. I figured I'd share where I went wrong, and maybe it could keep someone else from making the same mistake.
Here is the picture from the service manual. I assumed the arrows was the direction the plates go on. But, if you read down below, it's pointing to the outside. Oops!
![White Book Font Publication Triangle]()
Here is the picture from the service manual. I assumed the arrows was the direction the plates go on. But, if you read down below, it's pointing to the outside. Oops!
So you had the plates all backwards?
#20 was on the outside? Didn't think it would even fit.
It takes a real man to own up to his mistakes.
Another good tip: Put in 3 Barnett clutch springs for a bit more grab on the clutch. All 6 for a LOT more grab. Clutch pull is much tougher though. I tried both. But got golfers elbow with all 6 B clutch springs in.
#20 was on the outside? Didn't think it would even fit.
It takes a real man to own up to his mistakes.
Another good tip: Put in 3 Barnett clutch springs for a bit more grab on the clutch. All 6 for a LOT more grab. Clutch pull is much tougher though. I tried both. But got golfers elbow with all 6 B clutch springs in.
Correct, #20 was on the outside. There is no outside/inside to the plates themselves. Only the order really matters.So you had the plates all backwards?
#20 was on the outside? Didn't think it would even fit.
It takes a real man to own up to his mistakes.
Another good tip: Put in 3 Barnett clutch springs for a bit more grab on the clutch. All 6 for a LOT more grab. Clutch pull is much tougher though. I tried both. But got golfers elbow with all 6 B clutch springs in.
The result of having them out of order is that the clutch doesn't disengage all the way. it will a little.
That inside fiber disc has a larger ID to fit those metal rings inside of it. #9 and #10.
What part of Wisconsin are you from? I ride there all the time. On the west side central mostly. Excellent places to ride there.
What part of Wisconsin are you from? I ride there all the time. On the west side central mostly. Excellent places to ride there.
Yeah, it made sense after I saw my mistake.That inside fiber disc has a larger ID to fit those metal rings inside of it. #9 and #10.
What part of Wisconsin are you from? I ride there all the time. On the west side central mostly. Excellent places to ride there.
I'm all the way up North on Lake Superior. I've never had my bike down that way, but was thinking about heading down there later this spring. Any particular routes you recommend?
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