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Did the clutch adjustment by removing sprocket cover.

The manual states to loosen both lock nuts top and bottom and then turn the cable adjuster. The threaded piece the lock nuts are on just moves up and down. I had to tighten the top nut and then make the adjustment?

I don't see how else it works? Please explain in simple language.

I now have the correct free play at the handle, with some room for adjustment at the top handle adjuster, but the bottom is now at the end of the threaded tube, pipe whatever you call it, see pic.

Does that mean I will have to replace the clutch cable soon????

2006 WEe 15,000+ miles
 

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Did the clutch adjustment by removing sprocket cover.

The manual states to loosen both lock nuts top and bottom and then turn the cable adjuster. The threaded piece the lock nuts are on just moves up and down. I had to tighten the top nut and then make the adjustment?

I don't see how else it works? Please explain in simple language.

I now have the correct free play at the handle, with some room for adjustment at the top handle adjuster, but the bottom is now at the end of the threaded tube, pipe whatever you call it, see pic.

Does that mean I will have to replace the clutch cable soon????

2006 WEe 15,000+ miles
Greywolf is sure to kick in with pictures, but the bolts you are adjusting just take care of slack in the clutch cable.

If you look in the sprocket area you will see where the cable ends on an arm. If you look where the arm is attached you will see a shaft that has a nut and a screw adjuster on the end of it. You lossen the locknut, then turn the screw until you can feel contact and then back it out a bit (I forget the amount, half a turn I think?) Then tighten up the locknut.

After that you adjust the bolts opn the cable to make sure you have the appropriate amount of slack in the cable.

..Tom
 

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I had a similar situation with the lower end of the threaded barrel on the clutch cable running out of threads for the bottom nut, as your picture shows.

I was able to regain some threads by making the adjustment to lever play at the end of the cable that’s adjacent to the clutch hand lever. (You do this after doing the actuator rod adjustment described in Greywolf’s linked post.)

I’m not sure why, but the manual tells you to turn the adjuster barrel at the clutch hand lever all the way in before you begin the other adjustments. That’s the root of the problem. Having that top adjuster all the way in means that you’re left with only the adjuster at the engine end of the cable to take up all the slack. That’s why you’re running out of adjustment room.
 

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...I’m not sure why, but the manual tells you to turn the adjuster barrel at the clutch hand lever all the way in before you begin the other adjustments. That’s the root of the problem. Having that top adjuster all the way in means that you’re left with only the adjuster at the engine end of the cable to take up all the slack. That’s why you’re running out of adjustment room.
I can understand why: the bottom adjuster is harder to get at. If you do it first then you can make easily final adjustments or little adjustments for clutch stretch at the handlebar.

..Tom
 

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Not a bad idea to take the sprocket cover off maybe every oil change, clean out any crud, clean & grease the Wee's clutch "screw assembly" helix gizmo that converts the cable pull to pushing the push rod, clean & grease the pushrod, and take a close look at the condition of the cable and everything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for responding

As Sprocket stated "That’s the root of the problem. Having that top adjuster all the way in means that you’re left with only the adjuster at the engine end of the cable to take up all the slack. That’s why you’re running out of adjustment room"

Per the manual, with making the adjustment and backing out a 1/4 turn, it's the next step that was the problem. Following directions, you end up at the end of the lower threaded adjuster? Doesn't say anything bout that

That's what scares me as I prepare for the valve check and adjustment. If this is confusing me

Anyway, I will take another look for the arm adjustment mentioned
 

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...
Per the manual, with making the adjustment and backing out a 1/4 turn, it's the next step that was the problem. Following directions, you end up at the end of the lower threaded adjuster? Doesn't say anything bout that
...
Anyway, I will take another look for the arm adjustment mentioned
The quarter turn is for the adjuster on the clutch pushrod. The adjustment on either end of the cable has nothing to do with the quarter turn on the adjuster screw - it only adjusts the amount of slack in the cable. if you have adjusted the clutch adjuster properly and you run out of adjustment on the cable then the cable is stretched or the clutch actuator mechanism is messed up. (Mine wore out gradually at around 100,000 km 62,000 miles. It was cheap and easy to replace, about $50 in Canada.)

..Tom
 

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Do I understand correctly that the adjustment that can be made is only to change the amount of slack in the clutch lever before you actually begin to pull the clutch in?

I have a situation in which, after a clutch lever replacement, the friction zone of my clutch is not where I feel it should be. I have to let the lever too far out before I get friction. (The opposite of a stretched cable, I guess?)

Is this something that can be adjusted at all? Definitely not at the top of the cable at the lever, I know; but, down below, perhaps?
 

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I have a situation in which, after a clutch lever replacement, the friction zone of my clutch is not where I feel it should be.
There are two adjustment possibilities. One is the clutch pushrod clearance. Replacing the lever won't affect that. The other is the clutch cable free play. The latter is the one you need to do and it is at the end of the cable by the lever.
 

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OK, I was doing some maintenance last night and this was one of the items on the tick list as there was too much freeplay in the cable. I'm following all of the instructions in the manual to adjust the clutch and the slack (i.e. I've got the cover off and I'm doing the locknut screw adjustments).

Problem now is that when I start the bike up on the center stand and put it in first everything seems normal. Let the lever out and everything engages as you would expect it to, shift to second and back to first etc works fine but when I pull the lever all the way in I would expect dis-engagement and for the wheel to spin down and stop pretty quickly but it does not. I can't stop it with my boot either but if I reach over and tap the rear brake it stops spinning and stays stopped. As a reference if I shift it into neutral from first the rear wheel stops within a second or two (I'm idling as I shift around so it's not spinning too fast).

Do I need to alter the amount I back the adjusting screw out when it contacts the push rod? I tried 1/4 of a turn back as per the manual, 1/2 turn back, and no turns back all with the same result.

This one has me a little stumped b/c it's such a simple straight forward procedure that has gone fine in the past. Really hoping this isn't indicative of a major clutch issue - only 24k miles on the odometer.
 

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Stick to 1/4 turn. It's normal for a wet clutch, especially when cold, to deliver some power to the rear wheel when it's up in the air.
 

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Thanks greywolf. I'll give it a try and see how it goes and then re-check it sometime when it's thoroughly warmed up.
 

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Thanks greywolf. I'll give it a try and see how it goes and then re-check it sometime when it's thoroughly warmed up.
Even warm, there is some oil drag. As long as the bike will stand at idle in gear with the clutch lever pulled in and the wheels on the ground, don't worry about it. If you're talking about doing the 1/4 turn adjustment, that must be done when cold.
 

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I'm adjusting mine also. I copied this from the service manual:

"Loosen the lock-nut (3) and turn out the adjusting screw (4) two or three rotations. From that position, slowly turn the adjuster screw (3) in until it stops. Turn the adjuster screw (3) out 1/4 rotation and tighten the lock nut."

Obvious mix up in the numbers but I get the idea. Then it says:

"Loosen the lock-nuts (bottom cable adjustment), turn the cable adjuster to obtain 10-15mm of free play at the clutch lever end" This is after screwing the adjuster at the lever all the way in.

Accurate? I don't trust a manual that can't get two numbers right!! :confused:

 

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I'm adjusting mine also. I copied this from the service manual:

"Loosen the lock-nut (3) and turn out the adjusting screw (4) two or three rotations. From that position, slowly turn the adjuster screw (3) in until it stops. Turn the adjuster screw (3) out 1/4 rotation and tighten the lock nut."

Obvious mix up in the numbers but I get the idea. Then it says:

"Loosen the lock-nuts (bottom cable adjustment), turn the cable adjuster to obtain 10-15mm of free play at the clutch lever end" This is after screwing the adjuster at the lever all the way in.

Accurate? I don't trust a manual that can't get two numbers right!! :confused:
I never noticed the number mixup before. Anyway, the idea is to loosen the lock nut and turn the adjusting screw out to make sure it is free. Then lightly turn it in until contact is made. Turn it with too much force and it won't stop. It will push the rod hard enough to move it.

Then back the screw out 1/4 turn to create a small free space to allow for the rod to expand when hot. Hold the screw in position so it won't turn when tightening the lock nut.
 

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While using my service manual to check and adjust my clutch, I noticed that there seems to be quite a bit of lateral movement at the pivot point (#3 in the above picture. Perhaps 3 or 4 mm. Is that normal?
 

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While using my service manual to check and adjust my clutch, I noticed that there seems to be quite a bit of lateral movement at the pivot point (#3 in the above picture. Perhaps 3 or 4 mm. Is that normal?
That is normal. The actuator is a ramp and ball screw type. In a free state, it will wallow around.
 

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Stick to 1/4 turn. It's normal for a wet clutch, especially when cold, to deliver some power to the rear wheel when it's up in the air.
Well, after a couple of rides totaling maybe 200 miles plus or minus and it seem so to be working fine. Thanks for the help. I can't believe the difference it made adjusting the clutch correctly! The lock nut on the clutch adjustor was loose and it took me several turn to hit the engagement point ... not sure how that happend or how the heck it was working at all in the first place. I know I did it when I replace the chain a while back, it must hav not been locked down correctly after that.
 

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Wow

Fellas, this has been incredibly timely and helpful. I just had the local shop put on a new cable at 40k because I was (ignorant and) only getting partial effect when the lever was fully pulled. The new one wasn't much better. I pulled the cover looking for more adjustment, but missed working at the end of the push rod. I'll pull it again and see if I can figure it out.

By the way, could I be losing oil through a seal on the push rod? I assumed the cover was gunked up from chain lube, but I guess it could be oil. I ask because I dropped the full sight glass in 2k miles recently. It went somewhere. There's probably another thread for that.

Thanks for the help. I'll keep watching...
 
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