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Discussion Starter #1
Maybe it's my imagination, but my 2014 Vee2 seems to doing more of a clunk/lurch than it used to do when I go into first gear from neutral at a stop. I've been doing more riding around town lately, so this could just be that I'm stopping more at traffic lights and am noticing it more than usual.

Anyone else having the same issue? Any ideas out there about what might be going on? Transmission is otherwise behaving itself.
 

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I've got a 650, and I notice the clunk of the transmission into 1st depends a lot on when I grab the clutch before the gear. At a stop, if I pull the clutch right before (1/2 second or less) flicking to 1st the clunk and lurch is noticeable; so much so, I think that it really can't be good for the gears. If I wait 2-3 second, the clunk is still there, but barely noticeable; it's just right. On the flip side, if I have the clutch in for 5 seconds or more, it will sometimes not even shift into gear as all the gears and stuff have stopped spinning... a real pain in the arse when you need to get going in a hurry, cause I gotta pop the clutch shift in the < 1/2 second range to get going quick.

Maybe not at all the same as your 1000, just my accidental observation with mine that may be similar to you.
 

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Generally the clunk you experience is a result of the clutch plates not releasing fully.

A few thoughts:

-Most safety people would suggest you leave the bike running in gear when you are stopped so that you can move if the need arises

-Our bikes have multi plate wet clutches. They tend to drag a bit always and this is most noticeable when they are cold

-The DL650 has a cable actuated clutch and a mechanism for adjusting the slack. Some things that apply to the DL1000 do not apply to the DL650

If your DL1000 is experiencing MORE clunk than it used to there are a couple of things you may do.

-You might try bleeding the Hydraulic line to get rid of any possible air bubbles.

-Your slave cylinder may be leaking

-one or both of the pushrods may be worn down so that they do not release the clutch fully.

..Tom
 

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Sometimes an oil change can do wonders for smoothing out shifts...

Can we start an oil thread here? ?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

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:furious::eek:ut::mad::weapons_18:
 

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Check the adjustment of the cable. Sometimes just a tiny adjustment can help.

Oil. Yes, I know. But even the best-rated most-expensive synoil doesn't solve this entirely (ask me how I know this).

Design. All Japanese-format cycles with engine-transmission units and wet multiplate clutches do this. I've had Hondas, Suzukis, Yamahas, one Kawasaki. EVERY ONE does this to a greater extent or another. The only one that did NOT was my BMW, with an automotive-style single-plate dry clutch. Want to know what a clutch costs to replace on one of those?

Here where I live, most lights at major intersections are ungodly long. I just get around this by, not using N but shutting the engine down. Hit the Kill switch, and fire the (warmed-up) engine as the light finally does start cycling.

Please spare me the "DANGEROUS!" flame-fests. I've made my decision on this. You're free to keep your engine idling, in gear, holding the clutch in for six minutes at long lights if that's your pleasure. I have Carpal-Tunnel and can't do that comfortably. Nor is sudden escape from an unfolding mess behind, likely. Few riders do, or can, remain at 100-percent alertness at all lights, all the time, every time.

But the jump and BANG!! when engaging, is one of those characteristics of this design. I'm sure it's not good; but there's not a spate of Japanese motorcycles in shops getting new gear clusters, either.
 

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Check the adjustment of the cable. Sometimes just a tiny adjustment can help.

Oil. Yes, I know. But even the best-rated most-expensive synoil doesn't solve this entirely (ask me how I know this).

Design. All Japanese-format cycles with engine-transmission units and wet multiplate clutches do this. I've had Hondas, Suzukis, Yamahas, one Kawasaki. EVERY ONE does this to a greater extent or another. The only one that did NOT was my BMW, with an automotive-style single-plate dry clutch. Want to know what a clutch costs to replace on one of those?

Here where I live, most lights at major intersections are ungodly long. I just get around this by, not using N but shutting the engine down. Hit the Kill switch, and fire the (warmed-up) engine as the light finally does start cycling.

Please spare me the "DANGEROUS!" flame-fests. I've made my decision on this. You're free to keep your engine idling, in gear, holding the clutch in for six minutes at long lights if that's your pleasure. I have Carpal-Tunnel and can't do that comfortably. Nor is sudden escape from an unfolding mess behind, likely. Few riders do, or can, remain at 100-percent alertness at all lights, all the time, every time.

But the jump and BANG!! when engaging, is one of those characteristics of this design. I'm sure it's not good; but there's not a spate of Japanese motorcycles in shops getting new gear clusters, either.
This is the 2014+ DL1000. There is no clutch cable to adjust. There is no clutch adjustment apart from a very minor adjustment of the reach of the clutch lever.

The little bit of minor bang you get when you engage a Wet clutch is not what is being talked about here but rather an increase in the normal banging which suggests the clutch is now dragging even more than normal. (I have put over 342,000 km/212,000 miles on DL650's plus other previous bikes so I am very familiar with normal clutch operation.) The reason for the excessively loud clunk when engaging the clutch is the same as a DL650 with a poorly adjusted clutch, but the solutions are not as simple because the clutch is actuated hydraulically. (And cable adjustment is not the way to adjust the clutch on the DL650 but yes you do need the correct slack in the cable.)


As far as turning off the bike when stopped: I often do it at long construction delays but will keep a sharp eye on what is going behind me and even then I might leave the ignition on with the engine stopped so that a quick tap of the starter fires it up.)

..Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Generally the clunk you experience is a result of the clutch plates not releasing fully.

A few thoughts:

-Most safety people would suggest you leave the bike running in gear when you are stopped so that you can move if the need arises

-Our bikes have multi plate wet clutches. They tend to drag a bit always and this is most noticeable when they are cold

-The DL650 has a cable actuated clutch and a mechanism for adjusting the slack. Some things that apply to the DL1000 do not apply to the DL650

If your DL1000 is experiencing MORE clunk than it used to there are a couple of things you may do.

-You might try bleeding the Hydraulic line to get rid of any possible air bubbles.

-Your slave cylinder may be leaking

-one or both of the pushrods may be worn down so that they do not release the clutch fully.

..Tom
Good ideas, thanks.
 

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AS some 650 experiences have been mentioned I'll make my observation that occasionally my 650 will go into first after a cold start with absolutely no clunk, as smooth as a hot knife through butter, but when warmed up always clunks into first. My Honda CX with a multi plate wet clutch is always noiseless into first.
 

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This is the 2014+ DL1000. There is no clutch cable to adjust. There is no clutch adjustment apart from a very minor adjustment of the reach of the clutch lever.

The little bit of minor bang you get when you engage a Wet clutch is not what is being talked about here but rather an increase in the normal banging which suggests the clutch is now dragging even more than normal. (I have put over 342,000 km/212,000 miles on DL650's plus other previous bikes so I am very familiar with normal clutch operation.) The reason for the excessively loud clunk when engaging the clutch is the same as a DL650 with a poorly adjusted clutch, but the solutions are not as simple because the clutch is actuated hydraulically. (And cable adjustment is not the way to adjust the clutch on the DL650 but yes you do need the correct slack in the cable.)


As far as turning off the bike when stopped: I often do it at long construction delays but will keep a sharp eye on what is going behind me and even then I might leave the ignition on with the engine stopped so that a quick tap of the starter fires it up.)

..Tom
:oops:

I didn't check which bike. Just hit on the NEW POSTS.

Is the hydro-clutch self-adjusting in linkage? If it is...you've got a lot of work, finding if you've got a leaking master or slave or if your internal adjustments are out of spec.
 

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I pretty much always shift into first before coming to a stop. That way I'm in gear and ready to go if the light changes before I stop, or if I do stop, I'm in gear in case I need to move (got hit from behind once). By shifting into first before stopping (blipping the throttle to match revs) you pretty much negate any clunk.
 

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Mine grinds like mad if I'm moving to fast trying to get into first. If I'm in neutral and put it in first I don't notice anymore clunk then usual @ 2500 miles..
 

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Don't try to shift into first unless you're going less than ~10mph. Select a gear appropriate to your speed whether upshifting or downshifting.
 

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if its lurching forward you may have a dirty sprocket, take the cover off and clean it out. Lots of how to's on this site.

The clunk could just be you need an oil change, I remember mine would get clunky as the oil got some miles on it. In general though it was very smooth, I traded it on a Concours 1400 and that thing had a crazy clunk!
 
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