Clunk/crash 1st - 2nd stationary or in motion
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The clutch may need adjustment, it may not be disengaging fully. Idle set too high? These can cause hard, clunky shifting, especially from or into neutral.
Does the clutch dis-engage completely when in gear but stopped? Does it clunk into first if you pause after pulling in the clutch? It is a known characteristic that the one into two shift exhibits a clunk with this model.
Chain slack is 50mm, no less.
The DL1000 is a hydraulic actuated clutch. Where would one adjust it?
Chain slack is 50mm, no less.
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3,902 Posts
What other motorcycles are you accustomed to?
It looks like you've joined pretty recently, so my wild guess is that this is perfectly normal, everyday, harmless, behavior for this bike, and you're just used to a different experience. Riders coming from dry clutch BMWs, for example, often worry about perfectly normal clutch drag, clunks, etc. when they hop to a wet clutch bike.
The hydraulic clutch is self-adjusting, but it does have a very different feel, throw, and engagement "style" than a cable clutch. You might try adjusting the lever further out so that you achieve more disengagement when you pull in the clutch, or, just make a mental note to pull the clutch in more and see where that gets you.
Issues with the hydraulic clutch are most often things like leaks at the slave cylinder which should be evident; if you do have an issue with the clutch system (like the master or slave cylinder bypassing internally or leaking), it can cause the clutch to slowly engage again as you're sitting at a stoplight, and/or cause incomplete disengagement. Aftermarket levers can cause issues as well if things aren't exactly where they're supposed to be, and once in a while someone's aftermarket handguards or bar ends interfere with complete clutch lever travel.
It looks like you've joined pretty recently, so my wild guess is that this is perfectly normal, everyday, harmless, behavior for this bike, and you're just used to a different experience. Riders coming from dry clutch BMWs, for example, often worry about perfectly normal clutch drag, clunks, etc. when they hop to a wet clutch bike.
The hydraulic clutch is self-adjusting, but it does have a very different feel, throw, and engagement "style" than a cable clutch. You might try adjusting the lever further out so that you achieve more disengagement when you pull in the clutch, or, just make a mental note to pull the clutch in more and see where that gets you.
Issues with the hydraulic clutch are most often things like leaks at the slave cylinder which should be evident; if you do have an issue with the clutch system (like the master or slave cylinder bypassing internally or leaking), it can cause the clutch to slowly engage again as you're sitting at a stoplight, and/or cause incomplete disengagement. Aftermarket levers can cause issues as well if things aren't exactly where they're supposed to be, and once in a while someone's aftermarket handguards or bar ends interfere with complete clutch lever travel.
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3,902 Posts
Every single bike with a wet clutch does that.
When the oil is cold and the idle is still high, it can make a gawdawful crunch, but it's perfectly harmless. Sitting here a few thousand miles away, I can't tell whether yours is something to worry about.
But generally if it is something to worry about, it will be at the point where it's rather difficult to get into gear; you might have to try a few times or stomp pretty hard on the shift lever.
If it goes into gear easily, it's almost certainly fine.
Still, it's worth checking for complete clutch disengagement as I outlined above. Adjust the lever all the way out and see if that improves things.
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8,050 Posts
At what RPM are you shifting from first to second?
DL1000s like to be shifted from first to second at lower rpm (e.g., <3250 rpm).
There is a thread about it somewhere here on Stromtrooper. I don't think about it because I'm used to it, but any shift into first has more"clunk" to the action than the rest of the gears which are very smooth.
I think it is characteristic of the engine, not a problem with your bike, but posting some video with sound would help a lot with a determination.
DL1000s like to be shifted from first to second at lower rpm (e.g., <3250 rpm).
There is a thread about it somewhere here on Stromtrooper. I don't think about it because I'm used to it, but any shift into first has more"clunk" to the action than the rest of the gears which are very smooth.
I think it is characteristic of the engine, not a problem with your bike, but posting some video with sound would help a lot with a determination.
To adjust the clutch, is it not the same as every other strom?
Little screw with a nut on the left side of bike, slack off the cable, pull cable off, three bolts, pull cover. Loosen nut, tighten screw all the way in, till it touches. Back off a 1/4, keep screw tension while tightening the nut.
I know my 1050 occasionally clunks, seems to be, when it's cold and not the greatest shift.
Little screw with a nut on the left side of bike, slack off the cable, pull cable off, three bolts, pull cover. Loosen nut, tighten screw all the way in, till it touches. Back off a 1/4, keep screw tension while tightening the nut.
I know my 1050 occasionally clunks, seems to be, when it's cold and not the greatest shift.
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3,902 Posts
Nope.
You're in the DL1000 (2017-2019) forum, and the DL1000 has a hydraulic clutch. The only adjustment is the clutch lever reach.,
Mine doesn't do this (2014). Then again it's generally around 20C or hotter here. And it doesn't mind shifting from 1st to second at 7000rpm. (That's generally how I embarrass modern sports bikes off the line)
Generally the thunk is typical of the sequential shift gearbox. You may find that changing the oil you use improves matters. (Avoiding this becoming an oil thread).
If it's a bike with a few k's, take the cover off the front sprocket, clean the area out, clean the clutch push rood (don't remove it, just get all the crud off it), and consider covering the shift rod with a loose fitting rubber sleeve - possibly packed with a light grease. Drag on that shaft because it's covered with crud and sticky will make this worse.
Generally the thunk is typical of the sequential shift gearbox. You may find that changing the oil you use improves matters. (Avoiding this becoming an oil thread).
If it's a bike with a few k's, take the cover off the front sprocket, clean the area out, clean the clutch push rood (don't remove it, just get all the crud off it), and consider covering the shift rod with a loose fitting rubber sleeve - possibly packed with a light grease. Drag on that shaft because it's covered with crud and sticky will make this worse.
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56 Posts
My bike does the same. I remedy the 1st gear clunk by letting the bike idle down after startup and pumping the clutch a few times in neutral. The 1st to 2nd is just a technique . I half shift and then full shift. It hates shifting smoothly at low RPM. I get it above 3500 before initiating the half then full a microsecond later.
Youll just get used to the quirks of this bike.
Youll just get used to the quirks of this bike.
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