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Hi all. New to the group but have had my 09 650 since new. I recently did an incredibly stupid thing. Replacing the battery I reversed the polarity. So I replaced the primary 30 amp fuse near the battery,everything fired up fine but when I shut off the bike,it seems like the voltage regulator is vibrating and making a clicking noise,3 rapid times,while everything else shuts down. I can touch the regulator and it feels like there is a actual hard relay inside that’s cycling causing the clicking. The battery voltage is 12.6.
I have not checked if it’s charging cuz I’m afraid to fire it up again without trying to get an idea of what might be going on. Is there a outboard relay before the regulator I could have damaged when I reversed the polarity if the new battery. Yes I feeel incredibly stupid thank you ha ha ha .
Additionally,I had my valves checked by a local shop and after that I came up with a pair valve fault. I have found a plug that is off its connector and hopefully when the shop that did my valves said”it’s throwing an error code,but just ride it till you work on the bike again,it won’t hurt anything”. Obviously not going back ha ha ha . Rode it home,battery died after none use and here I am waiting to pull the tank,pray that loose connector is from the pair valve on the air box,and hoping someone knows what’s up with this vibration ,clicking from the voltage regulator although it seems to be charging but like I said,I’d like an idea before I rip everything off. I am reletavily handicapped and wrenching these days is harder then it used to be so narrowing things down makes a big diff. Any ideas.? Thanks,pj in so ca high desert . The bike is 2009 with less then 5k on it.
 

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Welcome to the club.

The R/R (regulator/rectifier) is solid-state so there are no relays inside the regulator to be latching and making noise. However, on the Gen1 Wee there is an ISC (idle speed control) valve mounted on the other side of the frame behind the R/R. It is an open-loop (i.e. no position feedback), servo-controlled valve that controls the idle speed so when you turn off the ignition the ECU (electronic control unit) sends a "homing" signal to the valve to put it in a known position and thus ready for the next start. It sounds to me like you might be confusing a sound coming from the R/R with the ISC reset sound which is nearby.

Also, as far as reversing the battery terminals it is not uncommon and you are not the first (or last) one to do this so don't feel too dumb. As far as I know, crossing up the terminals blows the fuse and that is the end, no further problems. Sometimes, after the mistake, people find a bad rectifier or bad stator but my guess is that those items were probably going bad and were found due to post-error testing. That said the main thing you need to do is test the charging system to verify the voltages are in range. Since you were replacing the battery, always suspect number one in starting or other electrical problems, it is possible that your R/R or stator is on the way out regardless of the mistake of crossing up the terminals.
 
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Welcome to the club.

The R/R (regulator/rectifier) is solid-state so there are no relays inside the regulator to be latching and making noise. However, on the Gen1 Wee there is an ISC (idle speed control) valve mounted on the other side of the frame behind the R/R. It is an open-loop (i.e. no position feedback), servo-controlled valve that controls the idle speed so when you turn off the ignition the ECU (electronic control unit) sends a "homing" signal to the valve to put it in a known position and thus ready for the next start. It sounds to me like you might be confusing a sound coming from the R/R with the ISC reset sound which is nearby.

Also, as far as reversing the battery terminals it is not uncommon and you are not the first (or last) one to do this so don't feel too dumb. As far as I know, crossing up the terminals blows the fuse and that is the end, no further problems. Sometimes, after the mistake, people find a bad rectifier or bad stator but my guess is that those items were probably going bad and were found due to post-error testing. That said the main thing you need to do is test the charging system to verify the voltages are in range. Since you were replacing the battery, always suspect number one in starting or other electrical problems, it is possible that your R/R or stator is on the way out regardless of the mistake of crossing up the terminals.
Ok great!.ill check the charge parameters and maybe it has always done this and I’ve never heard it before because of wearing a helmet. I may just be overly paranoid since my booboo ha ha ha. Now I just hope the last mech that did my valves just left off the pair valve plug and I can clear the FI 49....Then I will put it back in dealer mode and see if anything else turns up. Thank you for the advice greatly and info.........
 
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