StromTrooper banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
468 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was surprised to find that my left side peg mounting plate was held on by 2 screws that were at the most, hand tight. The pivot for the shifter was also very loose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
373 Posts
Quick Q: Do I read somewhere that the shifter angle could be moved down? I find it sits in an uncomfortable position for effortless shifting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
468 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Quick Q: Do I read somewhere that the shifter angle could be moved down? I find it sits in an uncomfortable position for effortless shifting.
Just a matter of turning the linkage that connects it. It's like a turnbuckle in that one side is a reverse thread, so first step is to figure which direction each locknut needs to spin to free it up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
when I installed my peg lowering kit, everything was tight. I know dealers will sometimes take parts from new bikes while they wait for a parts they ordered for another...

Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Good suggestion - I like to give the bike a general going-over once a year to make sure things are secure and tightly fastened - especially accessories like crash bars etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Just a matter of turning the linkage that connects it. It's like a turnbuckle in that one side is a reverse thread, so first step is to figure which direction each locknut needs to spin to free it up.
Place a 10mm open-end wrench on each of the nuts and push down on the wrench to loosen them, and this equates to turning the rear LH nut clockwise, and the front RH nut counterclockwise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Thanks for posting this, BH. Doing my first oil change yesterday, I noticed my RIGHT footpeg was noticeably loose - like maybe 1/32nd up and down play. Sure enough, 2 unsnugged bolts. Can't blame it on anyone but me - I must have forgotten to tighten them after installing Rick's lowering plates. Duh.

And, BTW, what is up with that PITA to replace oil drain crush washer? But that's another topic...

Vinnie

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
468 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
And, BTW, what is up with that PITA to replace oil drain crush washer? But that's another topic...

Vinnie

Nobody really replaces those, do they? In my ~40 years of oil changes, I think I've replaced only two; one I lost and one that was getting noticeably thin. (got a splinter from it)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
The aluminum crush washers for the oil drain plug are the same size as my 1250 Bandit, and I have been buying them for quite a few years from the Honda car dealerships, and there the ones used on my old 01 Honda Civic, and there only .25 cents each compared to the factory Suzuki ones which are $1.33, and for only .25 cents I always replace them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
I've been in the habit of changing them. They're so inexpensive, it seemed like cheap insurance against drips and accidental over-torqueing. With this stock set-up, though, it may be more trouble than it's worth. I eventually got the original washer off and found a crush washer with a rubber center. That let it slip over the threads of the drain bolt. A normal crush washer wouldn't quite go. All in all, more drama than I was looking for! I may take a tip from you and just say the heck with it in the future.


Vinnie

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top