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Hello again,

In these grossly hot summer days here by NYC this July - everytime i go out for a decent ride (aka more then 30 min) and at highway speeds, my dash starts to change to CHEC while driving.

I know this normally happens when the kickstand is down in gear, or the cutoff switch is set to 'off', but this is just coming on at what seems to be random times, as well as going back to normal (the clock) at random times.

Ive tried varying my speeds, driving in hotter or cooler weather, but nothing I do seems to change the randomness of it.

My service guy (who i normally trust) said, 'oh yeah its prob an old code that got tripped by accident, just remove the battery cables for a couple of minutes and it will go away' - and when i do that it usually does, but then it comes right back at random times.

Any thoughts on this? I thought maybe id try jumping the bike into dealer mode, but i couldnt get clear information on how to do that - the plug that was described in http://stromtrooper.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4843&sid=66c759275eee062e335178acaf42e55e is different then the one on mine ('04 1K) mine is yellow with 3 holes in a row followed by two parallel smaller holes also in a row. (see pic)



Any help, comments, suggestions are greatly appreciated!
 

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Looks like you're overheating, which would set the "CHEC" message. Definitely something that should be checked. I'm guessing you're moving since I see speed and rpm.
 

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spongebob218 said:
Looks like you're overheating, which would set the "CHEC" message. Definitely something that should be checked. I'm guessing you're moving since I see speed and rpm.

+1
 

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First time I'm ever seen 5 bars on a Strom. :shock:
 

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Your problem isn't the Chec code, it is overheating. Check your coolant level, your fan and your water pump. Also, you may want to check your thermostat.
 

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Hey guys, go out to your bikes and turn the kill switch to off then power up your ignition. If its like mine it will display 5 bars and say chec with the engine stone cold and turned off. He may have a defective cluster, or something else causing the chec message. If the bike were truly overheating you would not be going that speed for very long, the engine would heat seize and you would be taking a nice slide down the pavement. But and there is always a but with internal combustion engines if it is really getting hot it may be too late for your engine.

DK
locate the mode select switch connector White/red--Black/white wires going to it. Remove the seat and maybe the left side cover. remove the cover take a piece of insulated wire (bare ends) attach it to one of the plug connectors, start the engine and then attach the other end of the wire to the other terminal. The codes should be displayed on the LCD panel in ascending order, if more then one. Write down the codes then advise what they are and I will try to tell you where the fault lies.
Please DO NOT disconnect the ECM. battery or pull the fuse before you read the codes as you will erase the codes.

Hope I can help.

Mort

Plug should be white or light colored and have two female connectors attached to the two wires in question, it connects to nothing but does have a cover on it.
 
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hehe. show the second pic to your mechanic. he'll know what to check. :)

seriously, check your coolant level. if that's good, then make sure your fan is kicking in. if the fan's working and the coolant's full, it's like the pump. have your wrench check it out.

i've been through 118 deg through the desert southwest for hours on end and have never seen more than 3 bars and a lot of heat coming off the bike. the 3 bars remain constant when the ambient temperature is ~95+ and i'm running hard.

yep. i'd say your bike has a radiator/cooling issue that needs to be remedied pronto.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Mortaine is right, when the "CHEC" message comes up, the temp bars go to max, with what im guessing is the intent to grab your attention.

The first time this happened i thought it was just overheating, but then i realized that theres nothing wrong with the temp because when the CHEC goes away (which it does at random times) the temp gauge drops right back to where it was (usually 2 or 3 bars)

Anywayz, my engine was starting to act the same way it did when i first bought the bike, and a spark plug replacement fixed it then, so i replaced the plugs today and hopefully that will do something

I'll find out tmrw, supposed to be going for a 6-8 hour ride to Montauk :)
 

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just a suggestion....on my triumph sprint st, you must power off by turning the ignition key off. if you power down by using the kill switch, the on-board computer loses all stored codes. for example, if the low gas lite comes on, you must then run the engine thru 3 complete warm/cold cycles, using the ignition key to power down, before the comupter will re-build all the codes stored, and the lite will then go off. but, as always, YMMV.....
 

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rxcoop said:
just a suggestion....on my triumph sprint st, you must power off by turning the ignition key off. if you power down by using the kill switch, the on-board computer loses all stored codes. for example, if the low gas lite comes on, you must then run the engine thru 3 complete warm/cold cycles, using the ignition key to power down, before the comupter will re-build all the codes stored, and the lite will then go off. but, as always, YMMV.....
I always turn the engine off with the kill switch- leftover from MSF instructor days I guess. I haven't experienced any problems from this on the Strom.
 

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Re: pic of possible plug

is this the plug?
I disconnected it so it would be easier to see
I don't think so. The dealer connection plug has a white plastic / rubber cap on it but doesn't continue on as part of the harness so there would be nothing to disconnect. Mine was tucked down behind the panel that has the "Suzuki DL650 / 1000" sticker on it. You might have to remove that panel to find it.
 

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DK
Check your messages
 
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