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My jury's still out on these, but for $25 at Wal-Mart I couldn't resist giving them a try. Since I live in the North and it's light 'til late, I won't be using them that often, and couldn't bring myself to pay $250 for the really nice-looking PIAAs and another $60+ for nice-looking mounts. They're the 1038s on this page:
http://www.pilotautomotive.com/foglight2.html



I used stainless steel angle brackets which I cut short and drilled out to accommodate the stock fender bolt, and the used the (rather large) mounting plates that came with the lights. I put them upright rather than hanging them so that the lights hide the mounting hardware somewhat. Had a devil of a time finding any kind of black plastic tubing that I could use to both hide and protect the bright green and blue wiring that came with the light kit, so I ended up using 3/8" corrugated wire tubing. Not sure if I like the look... The flash really highlights everything, I don't think it stands out quite so much in normal daylight.



I wired the power into the bottom of the fuse block, tapping into the supply side of the low-beams. That provides power to the foglights when low-beams are on, but automatically cuts the foglights off when high-beams are on. It also makes sure I can't leave the foglights powered on when I shut off the ignition!

I looked for hours trying to find a better switch or housing to use, but couldn't find anything that seemed quite right. So I pulled the lighted rocker switch supplied with the kit from it's faceplate, wrapped it in shrink-wrap tape, and used outdoor mounting tape to stick it under my horn button.



The lights work pretty well, certainly lighting up the sides of the road and better filling in the near distance. But I'd be glad for any suggestions on improving the appearance, mounts and/or switch system.
 

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Use some liquid electrical tape around the switch & connections & you should have no worries. You can get weather proof switches at any marine supply. Maybe auto vacuum tube to run the wires through?

How do the lights work?

I like the price!!

ChuckS
 

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ChuckS - I'm pretty pleased with the brightness and coverage of the lights; I'll see if I can manage with/without pics from the rider's POV and post 'em. Most of the marine switches I could find were either monstrous or monstrously expensive (more than the foglights!), and I couldn't seem to find the right feature combo (small, weatherproof, lighted, and single pole).

I've used the liquid stuff before on my boat trailer, and I was considering it for the long term...
 

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Nice job on the lights!

The lights look great and should help in lighting up the edges of the road, and also in giving a better triangle of light for oncoming traffic to spot.

A couple of ideas on the mounts and lights:
- Treating the mounts with paint, bake-on coatings or gun blue could help hide them more if you still notice them.

- I have used rubber fuel line instead of the plastic tubing (required cutting off the harness and pulling the wires through, but I was shortening the wires anyway). You can also cut the fuel line lengthwise and use tape or ties.

- I will be using this waterproof switch to replace the stock switch from the PIAAs (the PIAA 510s were left over from my Bronco bumper project):

http://paneltronics.com/partdet.asp?PID=001-675

The 8-switch breaker panel is in my Bronco and it works great. Just one power line in from battery (fused) and all of my accessories wire right it (junked the stock harnesses and built a custom power dist. board and relays).

My plan is to build a custom panel for the Strom with two of these switches, a bulkhead mounted compass, a digital voltmeter, and my gear indicator (yes, still in my garage tinkering and still don't have a wife!).

Christopher
 

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I used a toggle switch with a waterproof boot and installed it right into the black fairing on the left side. The boot sold separately was only like $4 and it does the job just fine. You can probably get one at any auto parts / hardware store.

Plus, this way you won't accidentally flash your lights when you mean to honk your horn.
 

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I'm more concerned about hitting the dang horn when I'm clearing the turn indicator! My neighbors must think I'm impatiently signalling my wife to get dinner ready everytime I pull into the driveway.

I'm really hoping to find a push-on, push-off, lighted, weatherproof switch. Anybody ever seen/used something like that?
 

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Have a spare PIAA push on/push off lighted switch

But I don't think it is waterproof. You may be able to work with it, so I'm sending it to you today.
 

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Two points of interest:

www.rallylights.com sells Hella Optilux fog and driving lights for <$20. I've used both a they are remarkable bargains.

Take a look at autoswitches - available @ http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/product.asp?Item=AS

These are great. Easy to hook up. I have two - a 2 sec press of my high beam switch controls my driving lights and a quick double-press of the high-beam switch controls my Whalen LED3 flashers that I use at bicycle races.

Hope this is helpful
 

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Take a look at autoswitches - available @ http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/product.asp?Item=AS

These are great. Easy to hook up. I have two - a 2 sec press of my high beam switch controls my driving lights and a quick double-press of the high-beam switch controls my Whalen LED3 flashers that I use at bicycle races.

Hope this is helpful
Thanks for the link, Tomb - this looks like it would be a great solution!

Mike
 

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I've often wondered . . . . .

Does the V-Strom have an adequate charging reserve to handle keeping the battery fully charged with the extra 110 watts / 9.2 amps of draw created by the added lighting?
 

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I've often wondered . . . . .

Does the V-Strom have an adequate charging reserve to handle keeping the battery fully charged with the extra 110 watts / 9.2 amps of draw created by the added lighting?
Not much room to spare in the wattage department. I find the stock headlights to be pretty good but I wanted more light to help being seen, rather than seeing. I found these "Blazer XTREME" lights. They take an MR-11 bulb. You can walk into Lowes or whereever and get replacement bulbs from 5 watts to 50 watts. I've been running 20W and during the Barrie V-Strom ride I rode sweep. Ian, our fearless leader said he could pick me out by my lights with ease from a distance. I guess it means they are visible.


They seem to work pretty well, and don't look too bad.





To paraphrase a previous post....

Basic Strom Wiring 101 (DL1000 & DL650)

1. Any wire that is solid Orange or Orange with a color strip is a Switched 12 Volt wire. Switched 12 Volt m...

10. Strom Wattage Available. This is at 5000 RPM, at idle and slow speeds, considerably less.

02 DL1000 = ~95 watts to play with
03 & Up DL1000 = ~ 145 watts to play with
All DL650 = ~ 125 watts to play with

11. Fuse Sizing for auxiliary equipment. A device is fu....
 

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Suzuki Canada has confirmed for me that the K8 Wees have had 25 watts added to their maximum charging output compared to models for prior years (delivering 400 rather than 375 watts @ 5000 rpm).

Don't know how accurate your estimate of load freeboard is as I have seem a lot of references to around 100 watts of freeboard in other threads and on other sites but, in any event, for K8 models, you've now got another 25 watts to play with.
 

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that is the vee only

I think the extra watts is only on the Vee. Wee are still stuck in the same old rut. You may have them double check to make sure.
 

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I have the same lights as Heavy. Well, actually one as of today. I really like them but I will check out Wally World and my 10% off card. Was wondering about this idea. Rather than changing to 35 watt bulbs is it feasible to wire them(55 watts in lights) in series to draw only a total of 55 watts. I know the lights would be dimmer but should still be bright enough to get noticed. Call me curious.
 

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wire sleeve

- I have used rubber fuel line instead of the plastic tubing (required cutting off the harness and pulling the wires through, but I was shortening the wires anyway). You can also cut the fuel line lengthwise and use tape or ties.
I found some good wire sleeving at McMaster-Carr, purveyors of everything you could ever need. It's the same or similar stuff that Jim Davis of Eastern Beaver uses for his harnesses, and I was psyched when I found it. Sold by the foot in lots of diameters, it's much more compact than the plastic conduit and looks factory.

PDF link to relevant catalog pages (for some reason part of their online catalog is normal web pages, part of it PDF).
 

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Hey WW, Princess Auto had a set of similar lamps on sale for $15.00 recently. One of my original lamps suffered a fractured lense late last season and replacement parts are not available. As for wattage, go to Canadian Tire, or Rona, or Home Depot and buy some other bulbs. They only come in white but you can get 5W, 10W 20W and 50W, and they're really cheap. They are all wide beam flood lights. I'm on the hunt for narrow beam spots. They're out there and available, I just want to buy some locally, not via some internet order.

MR-11




I have the same lights as Heavy. Well, actually one as of today. I really like them but I will check out Wally World and my 10% off card. Was wondering about this idea. Rather than changing to 35 watt bulbs is it feasible to wire them(55 watts in lights) in series to draw only a total of 55 watts. I know the lights would be dimmer but should still be bright enough to get noticed. Call me curious.
 

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Oh Crap !! I was just within a stones throw of the Princess yesterday when I went for breakie with the guys. Raining now but when it clears up I wouldn't mind another 200 km ride just to see if I can get lucky. I have a bag full of MR11 bulbs in 20 and 35 watt flavors and just need 2 new housings. I broke one side of the hinge 2 years ago on the left side and it finally fatigued enough to fully let go and dangle by the wire. That was while on the S2S highway with no where to stop safely for a bit. The housing was dangling pretty close to a turning front wheel for comfort. ...Or I could just go to Wal-Mart and shell out 42 an change for a really cute pair of lights that use the MR11's. Decisions decisions.
 

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Went to the Princess today. Found some similar driving lights for $20.00 that use 50 watt MR 16 bulbs. Yellow of course and they are really bright and noticable. Test wired them in series and they are still plenty bright etc. So that is how they will be installed. Oh yah, I know, if one goes out they both go out just like a Christmas tree. Only drawing 50 watts to power both will be nice.
 

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Went to the Princess today. Found some similar driving lights for $20.00 that use 50 watt MR 16 bulbs. Yellow of course and they are really bright and noticable. Test wired them in series and they are still plenty bright etc. So that is how they will be installed. Oh yah, I know, if one goes out they both go out just like a Christmas tree. Only drawing 50 watts to power both will be nice.

Okay, now that I have had time to think about this. Some one straighten me out if I am wrong. With two 50 watt bulbs wired in series the light output is approx one half. Is the power draw 50 or 100 watts total. My mind says less light so therefore less power draw. But I will still have two 50 watt bulbs drawing power. Help with this will be very welcome.
 
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