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Could have been on DC when I checked... was flustered at the time. My main tell is on the dash where my bike voltage meter is. That said 12.4 at rest, and didn't move a bit when the bike started or when up at 5k RPMs.

I had all of the magnets out and tested them against each other, rotating them as needed so they each repelled the one next to it, every other. So when I put the next one in, if I hovered it above the one/s next to it, it would repel.
Hmm...Puzzling, indeed.

This is sounding like a bad regulator/rectifier.

Do you have the DL1000 shop manual? I may be repeating myself, but there are diagnostic steps in there that will help figure out the actual problem.

I'm thinking specifically of checking stator output at idle and at 5000 rpm. Make sure your multimeter is in AC mode, unplug the stator from the rest of the wiring harness, and connect your multimeter across any two legs of the stator. It should be putting out at least 75 V AC at 5000 rpm.

If all three legs of the stator are making the correct voltage, that points to a regulator/rectifier problem.

Maybe you already did that, but it's one of the only things I can think of that might help.
 

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Hmm...Puzzling, indeed.

This is sounding like a bad regulator/rectifier.

Do you have the DL1000 shop manual? I may be repeating myself, but there are diagnostic steps in there that will help figure out the actual problem.

I'm thinking specifically of checking stator output at idle and at 5000 rpm. Make sure your multimeter is in AC mode, unplug the stator from the rest of the wiring harness, and connect your multimeter across any two legs of the stator. It should be putting out at least 75 V AC at 5000 rpm.

If all three legs of the stator are making the correct voltage, that points to a regulator/rectifier problem.

Maybe you already did that, but it's one of the only things I can think of that might help.
I'll give it another round of tests and report back, thanks!
 

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Numbers tonight:

Measured at battery...
13.08V: battery fresh off tender/charger
12.34V: Ignition on
12.25V: Idling
12.25V: 5k rpm

Stator:
0.6 Ohm on all three cross-legs, consistent
No ground issues
2.7 AC VOLTS measured on all three cross-legs at idle and at 5k rpm.

I done screwed up, those magnets HAVE to be wrong, right?

Considering trying to bake them off in the oven, or just take it to a shop and have the whole rotor replaced. If I can screw it up one, I can screw it up again?? Or break a magnet and then I have to buy a new rotor assembly anyway.
 

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Wow, yeah something is definitely wrong there.

2.7 VAC per leg...I don't know how that's even possible!

Given that the regulator/rectifier is not involved in the transaction, and the stator is freshly rebuilt, yeah, it does point to a magnet problem. Don't know what else it could be, at this point.
 

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It would be good at this point to find a friend with a similar bike, swap stators and see what happens. That will definitely tell you whether it's the stator or the magnets.

Apart from the magnets the only other thing I can think of that could cause this symptom is that some of the coils were wound in the wrong direction. I agree that that's hardly likely when you got it professionally rewound, but who knows?
 

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Doggs, you have a magnet problem! Yes, they will effect voltage. The good news is that you have caught yours in time to fix it for next to nothing. Study up the "JB Weld" fix and have at it. No need to remove it from the bike, just clean it good in place. CAREFULLY move the magnets back in place. If your rotor has the holes in the outer rim, then those holes are supposed to be between the magnets. So, find a magnet that looks like it is correctly situated and move the others to the correct spacing. No need to remove them, that just adds complication. No need to put JB Weld under them.
 

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Stator:
0.6 Ohm on all three cross-legs, consistent
No ground issues
2.7 AC VOLTS measured on all three cross-legs at idle and at 5k rpm.

I done screwed up, those magnets HAVE to be wrong, right?
One test I don't see here is the Ohm test for shorting in the stator. Place one leg of the meter on any one of the three leads coming out of the stator connector. The other lead to a known good ground. ANY movement of an analog, or ANY change in a digital readout means a failed stator. Do this on all three legs of the stator. Any one of them that fails, stator is no good.

The test where you check ohms ACROSS any two of the three legs is a different test.....

New or rebuilt does NOT guarantee it is going to work.........
 

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Doggs, you have a magnet problem! Yes, they will effect voltage. The good news is that you have caught yours in time to fix it for next to nothing. Study up the "JB Weld" fix and have at it. No need to remove it from the bike, just clean it good in place. CAREFULLY move the magnets back in place. If your rotor has the holes in the outer rim, then those holes are supposed to be between the magnets. So, find a magnet that looks like it is correctly situated and move the others to the correct spacing. No need to remove them, that just adds complication. No need to put JB Weld under them.

Thanks. I will work on it during next week and will let you know the results.
 

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I had the same problem with mine. There you go pictures before and after :) Make sure the magnets are in the same position as you taken them off. Basically they should stick together when you make one long line of magnets and it will be ok.



 

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One test I don't see here is the Ohm test for shorting in the stator. Place one leg of the meter on any one of the three leads coming out of the stator connector. The other lead to a known good ground. ANY movement of an analog, or ANY change in a digital readout means a failed stator. Do this on all three legs of the stator. Any one of them that fails, stator is no good.

The test where you check ohms ACROSS any two of the three legs is a different test.....

New or rebuilt does NOT guarantee it is going to work.........
Thanks for confirming, I did do the across test as well as the short test. 0.L for all three, not shorting to ground. I am scheduling an appt to have the rotor replaced... @realshelby would you recommend that the new rotor/magnets be jb welded in between too if the glue is bad from the factory?
 

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If I had to buy a new rotor due for whatever reason, I would do the "JB Weld" fix before installing it. I simply do not see any downside to doing preventive work like that.
 

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I had the same problem with mine. There you go pictures before and after :) Make sure the magnets are in the same position as you taken them off. Basically they should stick together when you make one long line of magnets and it will be ok.




I see there you spaced them out so there is some sort of hole in between each one. Is that how it needs to be done or it doesn't matter where the spaces are?
 

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I see there you spaced them out so there is some sort of hole in between each one. Is that how it needs to be done or it doesn't matter where the spaces are?
The holes in the earlier rotors are where the end gaps of the magnets are located. BUT....the later rotors and all service replacements don't have ANY of these holes. So that tells me it doesn't matter. But I would pick a gap that is over a hole as that indicates those magnets are still in their original placement and go from there.

Personally I would put more JB Weld in the gaps than what is shown in the pic above. That might work just fine, but building a small bridge between magnets with the epoxy ensures they cannot migrate together again. Just put an equal amount in each gap. Not Rocket Science, just get it close.
 

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Im experiencing that my VSR1 is ideling at 12.7. i recenly replaced the battery. when cranking it it drops down to 11.7 and then picks up when ideling. in idel mode it doesnt go over 12.7. when i rede with the lights on (Previous batery) it did not want to crank the following day. could there be a possible rectifier of alternator problem? Please advise.
 

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IF your voltage never rises above 12.7, that is not good. You cannot actually charge the battery at that voltage. You need 13.5+ to actually force charge into a battery properly.

I suspect you will find either magnets have moved together or a bad stator......or both. Time to pull the magneto cover and inspect both parts.
 
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