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Discussion Starter #1
Troopers,

I recently toasted my battery during the trip back from New England and before I just throw a new battery in I wanted some feedback with regards to what else should be checked. I'm familiar with an automotive alternator system but I have no experience at all with a stator type system.

Did I cause any damage to the stator by asking it to run all the electric demands during this run? (the only extra being run besides the bike was my GPS.)

Am I correct in my assumption that the charging system is OK since I was able to keep moving?

What tests should be performed to measure output?

I'm hitting the manual next to see what it says but wanted to get some of your feedback as well.

Thanks!
 

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Troopers,

I recently toasted my battery during the trip back from New England and before I just throw a new battery in I wanted some feedback with regards to what else should be checked. I'm familiar with an automotive alternator system but I have no experience at all with a stator type system.

Did I cause any damage to the stator by asking it to run all the electric demands during this run? (the only extra being run besides the bike was my GPS.)

Am I correct in my assumption that the charging system is OK since I was able to keep moving?

What tests should be performed to measure output?

I'm hitting the manual next to see what it says but wanted to get some of your feedback as well.

Thanks!
Greetings,

Starting simple here... how old was your battery? Perhaps it was just used up. Do you use a trickle charger? Do you ride year round, or does it sit in the cold months? A good charged battery should be giving you 12v+ on your multimeter at idle, and revving the engine to 2,000rpm should generate ~14v or so.

The regulator/rectifier is another point in the charging system to check for continuity. Check as many wires, connections, and fuses as possible.

You should not be causing damage running an auxiliary GPS on a tour, although I may be misinterpreting your question about that...

The bike not dying/continuing to run with a known dead battery is not conclusive that your charging system is functioning correctly.

Standard disclaimer: I'm not a mechanic and I am new to V-Stroms, however my wee is my 3rd modern Suzuki.

Good luck! I recommend a gel battery for long life.

~Sarah
 

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Battery I believe was only about 3 years old, and yes he keeps it on a trickle charger when not riding.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Greetings,

Starting simple here... how old was your battery? Perhaps it was just used up. Do you use a trickle charger? Do you ride year round, or does it sit in the cold months? A good charged battery should be giving you 12v+ on your multimeter at idle, and revving the engine to 2,000rpm should generate ~14v or so.

The regulator/rectifier is another point in the charging system to check for continuity. Check as many wires, connections, and fuses as possible.

You should not be causing damage running an auxiliary GPS on a tour, although I may be misinterpreting your question about that...

The bike not dying/continuing to run with a known dead battery is not conclusive that your charging system is functioning correctly.

Standard disclaimer: I'm not a mechanic and I am new to V-Stroms, however my wee is my 3rd modern Suzuki.

Good luck! I recommend a gel battery for long life.

~Sarah
The battery is at least 2.5 years old, it was installed by the PO. I do use a battery tender when the bike is expected to sit for more than a couple of weeks. The voltage numbers when running is info I was looking for since that is similar to an alternator type system.

The GPS reference was only to illustrate that I was not asking the electrical system to do any more than necessary when coming home. I have heard of alternators being destroyed when asked to overcome a battery that was not able to take a charge and my concern was that the stator could be damaged in the same way.

See if it will charge off the bike as a first step.
It's on the charger as we speak. I'll check it in a couple of hours and see where it's at.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just did some testing after charging the battery up and things are pointing towards the regulator. I'm only seeing 12 V at idle and 12.27 V @ 4K rpm. After shutting everything off the voltage stabilized at 12.3 V. I did these readings with nothing extra on. When I hit the high beams the voltage dropped below 12V.

Time for some more reading of the manual. Thanks for the help so far!
 

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If you made it home, then why not take it to an Autozone tommorrow and have them test it with their machine ? It's still a 12v battery, for which they usually have a diagnostic machine.

If it's got a bad cell, they should be able to tell you. If it's O.K., then you should be able to eliminate the battery as the source of the problem.

If the battery is O.K., then I would put a multimeter on the terminals of the battery while then engine is running. I think the charging stats for that model are 14+ volts @ idle and 14.9 or so @ 5k rpm.

You might also remove the stator cover to see if anything looks burned--but that still is not conclusive. There are posts on the VSRI forum where the stator had to be remove to be able to see burned areas.

Aside from that it might be the rectifier.

There are a few posts on '03 Vee's burning out their stators on long trips without a great deal of electical add-on's, but yours is an ‘02. Not sure if that is better.

P.S. On my Ranger, when the battery was going bad, the voltage tested low with the engine running, but the problem was not the charging system, it was the battery. Not sure if it would work the same on a bike, but I always like to eliminate the battery as the source of the problem first.
 

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..., the voltage tested low with the engine running, but the problem was not the charging system, it was the battery. Not sure if it would work the same on a bike, but I always like to eliminate the battery as the source of the problem first.
Good advice in XLon's post; eliminate the battery as a problem source first. There is plenty of cheap Chinese crap on the market - batteries are no exception!

Please post back and tell us how it goes. Glad to hear you're a trickler. :)

I'm highly skeptical of regulator/rectifiers' reliability - but just tonight my S.O. and I identified a charging issue on his Moto Guzzi as a toasted wire off the stator. Se la vie!

Still wishing you the best of luck,
~Sarah
 

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After testing the stator per the manual, it appears that that is needing replaced. It tested outside the specs by .2 ohms on the high side. The R/R is not showing any numbers when tested but I'm contributing that to operator error right now. My multi meter had a blown fuse in it and I will re-test after replacing that. Not sure if that is what is giving me the zero reading but wanted to eliminate it as a possibility.

The manual is a little fuzzy to me regarding testing the R/R. If anyone has any insight/advice as to the proper procedure to test this, please let me know.

The battery seems OK as it's still holding voltage after some running of the bike earlier tonight but I will check again in the morning after is has sat a few hours.
 

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Just got back from picking up a new fuse for my multi tester and was able to get the R/R tested at an independent MC repair shop and it tested OK. Everything is still pointing to the stator. I have one more test to do (no load generator output) but I don't think it will change the conclusion. The battery seems to be OK since it is still holding a charge after doing some of the starting and running tests from last night.

Xlon, I've been through that thread but thanks for linking to it for anyone else who has questions.

I do appreciate the input!
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Burnt stator anyone...?



New one will be getting ordered later this week.

(Sorry B, I couldn't resist ripping into the guts to see what I would find! I promise I'll wait to put it back when you can observe.)

And thanks for the link Sarah (there's a lot of good info there, it's now in my favorites)!
 

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Damn Steve.....no doubt about that!!!!!!!! I am glad you tore into it, how hard was it and where are you getting a new one?
 

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Damn Steve.....no doubt about that!!!!!!!! I am glad you tore into it, how hard was it and where are you getting a new one?
Getting into was about a 10 minute job and very straight forward. Removed 11 bolts (IIRC) and the clutch slave, disconnect two wire connections and out she came. Not sure where I'm going to order the new one from yet since I'll be waiting until the end of the week. I'll be price checking up until then.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The only extra electrical device besides the GPS I have is a set of Oxford heated grips. I was using a Gerbings heated liner up until last year when it died of old age. These shouldn't be too rough on the electrical system.

Looking forward to getting a new stator in and see what the improvement will be.
 

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Jeezz, Steve - You have electrical problems & don't give me a call? :~)

Mike
Sorry man!
It was actually pretty easy tracing it down using the manual. The hard part was actually pulling the trigger on a $200 part :var_47:
I contacted one place to check into rewinding the old one and they wanted "anywhere between $150 and $180". Didn't seem worth it after figuring in shipping. Hopefully it will be here before the weekend.
 
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