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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks,

Newbie member and owner here. Actually it's a KLV1000, but apart from orange paint and Kawasaki decals...it's a Strom. I'm advised this is THE site for all things Strom, so I wonder if anyone has any input on a charging problem I have.

Suspected it had a charging issue as after a 60 mile test ride, then left idle for a few days, a few starts later, with a nice warm motor...the battery was flat. New battery on and testing across the terminals with bike gave 12.1 at tick over, and 12.5v at 5k.

Checked the stator and although with three 6's on the Ohm meter, we got no reading when testing Volts AC. Tho' we did get the same result on my mates Raptor, which is same TL based motor, so it could be we're doing something wrong, as neither of us is an electrical genius by a long chalk.

Anyhoo, no point messing around so I've fitted a new battery, ESR/Procom high output stator, and an Electrex MosFet reg/rec. No difference. Still only 12.5v across the battery terminals at 5k.

It's definitely getting a little charge and I saw 12.8v with the headlight fuse removed, but it should be giving a healthy 14.2v.

Any suggestions ?

Cheers.
 

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What year? I assume it is like first generation DL and has the exposed magnets in the stator cover so you should check those. Pull the connector for the stator and measure the AC voltage out of the stator at 5K - guessing a good number would be around 70 volts between each two of the three wires. Could also be a poor connection somewhere in the charging circuit - check connectors and any screws holding down wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The KLV is the '04 onwards> Strom.

Magnets looked good when I fitted the stator. I've worked out I was testing AC from stator incorrectly. I wasn't going pin to pin at 5k...I was doing 'pin to battery negative'...which is to check nothing is going to ground. (Well, I did say you I was no electrical genius). Will check properly this evening.

The more I think about it, bad earth at ground is a possibility. Will check for corrosion on the bolt.

Cheers
 

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"Magnets looked good"? I have seen several owners over the years say they looked good, but didn't pay attention to the gap between them. The gap between them MUST be equal on ALL of them. Which will be about 1/4" or so. ANY larger or smaller gap means the magnets have moved out of position. This is a cause of low voltage readings.

Beyond that, replacing the stator and R/R with new ones is not a guarantee of success. There are many cases of new aftermarket stators not performing right out of the box.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Realshelby...right on the money ! Magnets looked good. Spaces....not so good. (Confirmation that I'm no electrical genius.)

Magnets now removed and cleaned, except for one. It just does not want to move, so it can stay there.

Stator was giving 55v AC.

Are tile spacers the best way to keep the spaces even whilst bonding the magnets back in, and if so, any idea what size spacers ? (I'm no tileing expert either.)

What is recommended for bonding the magnets in place and as for the holes in the rotor, do they need to be kept clear?

Thanks for all the input folks. Really is much appreciated.
 

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As an aside, your K1000 Kwaker was an effort back them for Kawi and Suzuki to share research and parts. My 03 ZR7S had a lot of the same running gear as the Suzukis of the same vintage. Swing Arms, wheels and other things were a shared effort.
Too hip to have a Kawi Strom! Wished I'd kept my ZR7S, nice bike.
 

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Are tile spacers the best way to keep the spaces even whilst bonding the magnets back in, and if so, any idea what size spacers ? (I'm no tileing expert either.)

What is recommended for bonding the magnets in place and as for the holes in the rotor, do they need to be kept clear?
Anything that keeps the spacing equal is fine. You want to be able to remove them as it sets up. You can, in most cases, set the spacing and remove the "spacers" and the magnets will stay in place. The holes in the rotor, which are only on the earlier years and not on replacement rotors, are going to be exactly in the center of the spaces of the magnets. So, you could use those as a guide also.

Standard JB Weld. White tube with red and black lettering. 24 hour cure. Do NOT use the fast setting type!!!! This stuff has metal particles and is attracted to the magnets. But don't worry too much about looks. Get the gap filled 1/3 to 1/2 full and try to use a fairly equal amount in each gap. Then about 1 1/2 hours later you will find the JB Weld starts to get more solid. You can take a knife or razor and trim/scrape excess off easily. Wait 24 hours before reassembly. No need to put epoxy under the magnets, that can lead to more problems if not very, very careful. I hope you marked the magnets before removing? They must be reinstalled with the correct polarity.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
??? No on mentioned marking them before removal. I've refitted them N-S-N-S-N-S...and so on, using the one I couldn't remove as a starting point. (Oh please let that be correct !!)
 

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Another happy ending!

I have been a firm believer that moving magnets are hard on stators. In the past year I seen so many cases like this that I tell about everyone I talk to about clutch baskets to inspect their magnets in the rotor. I would do the JB Weld fix to any DL 1000 even before it needed it.
 
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