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Discussion Starter #1
I have a Harbor Freight tire changer that I've used on my ST1300's wheels. Out of the box, the HF unit had a vertical shaft that screws into a socket on the Y shaped tire gripper and extends up through the center of the wheel. The only fly in the ointment is this shaft is too large for the ST's wheels so I made two smaller mandrels, one for each axle size. These screw into the HF factory thread and also fit nicely through the wheel bearings.

I'm lucky because one of these mandrels will fit the 20 mm axle size of the rear wheel (posted by Greywolf in another thread here). However, the front wheel axle is 17 mm (again, noted by GW) and neither my two mandrels nor the HF bar will fit.

What to other Harbor Freight Tire Changer owners do? If the bar does not fit thru the wheel and into that threaded hole you have nothing to brace the NoMar bar (or equivalent) against. I'd hate to make another mandrel for only one mc wheel, though no doubt it will fit other bikes too.
 

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Sometimes I don't even use the bar. Simply use the tire changer to lock down the rim. Then get out the spoons and start cussing. Sometimes quite a bit of cussing. I have and sometimes use the aftermarket bar that has the nylon contact points. Even that is hard on painted rims. So, the spoons and some plastic coffee can pieces to put under the spoons is my go to technique.

Learning how to use the c clamps to keep the bead in the center of the rim, along with RuGlyde, make life a lot easier. Less cussing.
 

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I've got a few bikes, all seemingly with different axle sizes. I've slid a piece of pvc over the rod, I've wrapped duct tape around the portion of the rod that lines up with the bearing, etc. Lots of possibilities.
 

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I have the MoJo blocks and have used no rod, but recently I bought a 5/8 rod from Home Depot and just dropped into the hole, does not screw in, but works pretty well.
 

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Sometimes I don't even use the bar. ... Sometimes quite a bit of cussing. I have and sometimes use the aftermarket bar that has the nylon contact points. Even that is hard on painted rims. So, the spoons and some plastic coffee can pieces to put under the spoons is my go to technique.
Learning how to use the c clamps to keep the bead in the center of the rim, along with RuGlyde, make life a lot easier. Less cussing.
Get one of those "Yellow Thing" gadgets. They are pricy but they really work. No need for C clamps, just 3 or 4 wood blocks to keep the rest of the tire in the center of the rim. Tire hot, keep it in the sun for a while, well lubricated as you say and the mounting bar works pretty well.
 

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I don't use the vertical extension that holds the bar, it's not mounted on my changer.

I use a solid steel rod (1/2"ish) about 3' that fits through the wheel and goes into the hole on the changer. Doesn't screw in, loose fit.

Mojo Blocks and the Mojo lever also.

What I've found works best is to center the wheel on the stand and insert the rod. Then adjust the 2 pinned blocks keeping the wheel centered then screw down the last block to hold the wheel. A tie down strap around one of the cast wheel spokes and around an arm on the changer keeps the wheel from rotating.

I use a wood block to keep the opposite bead down when mounting. Easy, peasy compared to wrestling a tire on the ground with spoons!
 

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I don't use the vertical extension that holds the bar, it's not mounted on my changer.

I use a solid steel rod (1/2"ish) about 3' that fits through the wheel and goes into the hole on the changer. Doesn't screw in, loose fit.

Mojo Blocks and the Mojo lever also.

What I've found works best is to center the wheel on the stand and insert the rod. Then adjust the 2 pinned blocks keeping the wheel centered then screw down the last block to hold the wheel. A tie down strap around one of the cast wheel spokes and around an arm on the changer keeps the wheel from rotating.

I use a wood block to keep the opposite bead down when mounting. Easy, peasy compared to wrestling a tire on the ground with spoons!
I like the Idea of a strap around one of the cast wheel spokes and around an arm on the changer keeps the wheel from rotating.
 

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That strap is essential in my book when changing the tire with a dismount/ mount bar. Without the strap the rim likes to slide and rotate in the clamps.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I don't use the vertical extension that holds the bar, it's not mounted on my changer.

I use a solid steel rod (1/2"ish) about 3' that fits through the wheel and goes into the hole on the changer. Doesn't screw in, loose fit.

Mojo Blocks and the Mojo lever also.

What I've found works best is to center the wheel on the stand and insert the rod. Then adjust the 2 pinned blocks keeping the wheel centered then screw down the last block to hold the wheel. A tie down strap around one of the cast wheel spokes and around an arm on the changer keeps the wheel from rotating.

I use a wood block to keep the opposite bead down when mounting. Easy, peasy compared to wrestling a tire on the ground with spoons!
I have the Yellow Thing, made some mojo blocks, and have the NoMar bar as well as big wood working clamps and all sorts of wood blocks to keep the bead centered in the rim. Your steel rod (and the other suggestion to use a piece of rebar) are what I will do.

Thank you all!
 

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I have the HF changer...none of the aftermarket stuff. Only use it to break the bead. Then, I have a dedicated stack of pallets to spoon the tire on/off.
Maybe I should get those blocks and things!
 

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I have the HF changer...none of the aftermarket stuff. Only use it to break the bead. Then, I have a dedicated stack of pallets to spoon the tire on/off.
Maybe I should get those blocks and things!
Spoons will work, but they are godawfull hard on the powder coating and almost impossible on the heavy sidewalled tires I run.......Mitas E07 and before those the Heidy K60 Scouts.

Since I went to the HF and mentioned accessories....no more damage to the rims and a lot less cursing.
 

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I just acquired a used HF changer. Just haven't accepted the fixed foot print it uses when not in service. It risks suffering "flat surface syndrome" much like an exercise machine.
Leaning toward a set of drop in anchors with bolts in them when not in use.
 

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I would look into the tire changing accessories that is offered by No-Mar tire changer.

There's a possiblity that tools/accessories can be adapted to be used on the HF and make your life easier.
 

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Spoons will work, but they are godawfull hard on the powder coating and almost impossible on the heavy sidewalled tires I run.......Mitas E07 and before those the Heidy K60 Scouts.

Since I went to the HF and mentioned accessories....no more damage to the rims and a lot less cursing.
Rim protectors either pre-made or DIY are your friend when it come to protecting wheel finishes.
 

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I would look into the tire changing accessories that is offered by No-Mar tire changer.

There's a possiblity that tools/accessories can be adapted to be used on the HF and make your life easier.
The yellow thing and mount/dismount tool will work but really nothing else off the main machine can be harvested for the NoMar and repurposed to the HF unit.
 

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I don't use the vertical extension that holds the bar, it's not mounted on my changer.

I use a solid steel rod (1/2"ish) about 3' that fits through the wheel and goes into the hole on the changer. Doesn't screw in, loose fit.

Mojo Blocks and the Mojo lever also.

What I've found works best is to center the wheel on the stand and insert the rod. Then adjust the 2 pinned blocks keeping the wheel centered then screw down the last block to hold the wheel. A tie down strap around one of the cast wheel spokes and around an arm on the changer keeps the wheel from rotating.

I use a wood block to keep the opposite bead down when mounting. Easy, peasy compared to wrestling a tire on the ground with spoons!


This is exactly how i use mine
Works great
Just i use the yellow thing instead of blocks
Pain free tire changes now
Even mounted to plywood, so its mobile
Might even make a hit h attachment over winter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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