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Changing my stearing steam bearings

1370 Views 6 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Black Lab
Hi guys i need some help here.

I did change my stearing steam bearings and followed Blacklabs walkthrough. Everything went fine but after taking the bike for a test spin i notice that the bike now kinda wobbles. At the speed 50-70km/t the bike seems to drag to the right, just to tip over to the left. Then it goes to the right again tip over ... and so on. Almost moves like a fish.

Anyone got any ideas what i might hva done wrong. The bearings was firmly bashed at place and the the forks seems to be at the same hight.

Please help!
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Hi guys i need some help here.

I did change my stearing steam bearings and followed Blacklabs walkthrough. Everything went fine but after taking the bike for a test spin i notice that the bike now kinda wobbles. At the speed 50-70km/t the bike seems to drag to the right, just to tip over to the left. Then it goes to the right again tip over ... and so on. Almost moves like a fish.

Anyone got any ideas what i might hva done wrong. The bearings was firmly bashed at place and the the forks seems to be at the same hight.

Please help!
Sounds like the bearing adjustment is too snug. Did you replace them with tapered rollers? Those are more sensitive to adjustment than the stock ball bearing type are.
 

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Almost moves like a fish.
Should be great in the rain.

What Rich said. The bearing lock nut setting is just to take any free play out of the bearings (unless there is a specification for certain free play* or certain preload, which there isn't in this application). Try taking off the upper lock nut and check the feel of the lower lock nut. If it is loose, snug it down (but not beyond snug). If it is tight, loosen it to the just-snug point. Secure it and take it for a test ride.
The bearings was firmly bashed
Bashing too firmly damages bearings. You did bash only against the race that had the friction fit, didn't you? No bashing against the seal or the other race?


*An example of specified free play is in auto wheel bearings. Timken specifies axial play (in & out looseness) of 0.001" to 0.007" after the lock nut is correctly tightened and the cotter key hole lined up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
btw i used tapered rollers i guess.
i was carefull when bashing in the bearings using a tube with the exact right dim.

A year with my wee and never had this smooth stearing while riding. I bought the bike used and with damaged bearings i guess. Awsome feel now. Love my wee :)
 

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Thanks Davidoff74. I am glad you had success.

What Rich Desmond and others have posted is correct. When I first installed my new bearings, I too had them too tight. At slower speeds, the bike would "weave" its way down the road. I would particularly feel this when decelerating to "in town" speed limits; the motorcycle would begin to wander.

A "weaving", "wandering" motorcycle is most likely stem bearings that are too loose.

A "wobbling" motorcycle is usually a symptom of stem head bearings that are too loose.

On the DL-650, a good place to start for proper tension is to snug up the adjusting nut until it really takes, "extra" strength to move it. Then, back it off no more then one half turn. Tighten the locking nut, making sure that when you do, the adjusting nut doesn't also spin; it stays put where you have set it.

I place a black Magic Marker dot on the adjusting nut, and also on the rubber cap that fits over the stem head bearings. I make sure that these two do not move and become misaligned when tightening up the lock nut.

B.L.
 
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