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OK guys.......got a new to me 09 DL 650 and so far kinda like it. BUT... I've been a shaft guy for more years than I remember........anyway its time to learn a bit about chains............could anyone point me in the right direction for some good reading material? And I realize chain maint info might be a little subjective........ just like everything else........ but I am starting from scratch...... want to know tools needed, whats important to know when changing......... all that stuff........so any idea on which way to look? Thanks.


NJJim
09 DL 650
few others in various disarray
 

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Use the google search on this forum, there are a zillion threads on this.

My $0.02 - Better to have the chain a little loose than a little tight. Use one of the aerosol teflon wax lubes about every 500 miles for street riding.
 

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Here is a short list of items needed to replace chain/sprockets

- Socket for wheel axle
- Socket for front sprocket bolt
- Socket for rear sprocket bolts
- Torque wrench
- Blue loctite
- Chain breaker/Riveter (you could avoid the Riveter with screw on master links)
- Dremel to grind head of chain pin off before using chain breaker
- Axle bolt locking pin
- Breaker bar to get front sprocket bolt off
- Center stand
- Chain lube
- WD40 to clean front sprocket area
- Small wrenches to adjust chain tension

Did i miss anything? Once you have everything it is a half hour job to replace it all.
 

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Chain adjustment--
--Bike on the sidestand, middle of the lower run of chain, lift & lower the chain very lightly. 1" to 1-1/8" lift is just right.
--Adjust the chain to the spec, then sight down the chain over the rear sprocket to be sure it runs straight off the sprocket. Don't trust the marks on the swing arm.
--Put a dab of antiseize paste on the rear axle threads, then torque the nut to about 58 lbs-ft. This is less than the book calls for, but with the antiseize you won't have seized threads.


Chain lube--
--Good rule of thumb is to lube every other tank of gas, or every tank in the wet or in grit.
--Not much cleaning is needed. If you want, just a wipe with a dry rag is OK. Never, ever run the chain under power and get near it with a rag or your hand. It will cut off your fingers if they get between the chain & sprocket. Ditto for a power-off wheel spun by hand.
--http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/more-motorcycle-chain-lubes-reviewed/
--Or, ask your local bike shop which lube they sell that doesn't make a big mess.


Chain replacement--
--Good for 20,000+ miles if lubed.
--If you can pull slack in the chain at the 3:00 position on the rear sprocket, or if there are stiff links, or if you see rust coming out under rollers, it's time for a new chain.
--The master link is riveted. You'll need a rivet tool. Cheap ones from Cycle Gear or Harbor Junk work OK a time or two. $100 tools work great. Cut the old chain off or grind off the rivet head & push out the pin--don't try to push out the head.
--Any top line o-ring (x-ring, etc.) chain from any good chain maker is good. Size is 525. Length is 118 links.
--Renew the sprockets at the same time you renew the chain.
 

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...

Chain lube--
--Good rule of thumb is to lube every other tank of gas, or every tank in the wet or in grit.
--Not much cleaning is needed. If you want, just a wipe with a dry rag is OK. Never, ever run the chain under power and get near it with a rag or your hand. It will cut off your fingers if they get between the chain & sprocket. Ditto for a power-off wheel spun by hand.
--http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/more-motorcycle-chain-lubes-reviewed/
--Or, ask your local bike shop which lube they sell that doesn't make a big mess.


Chain replacement--
--Good for 20,000+ miles if lubed.
--If you can pull slack in the chain at
....
Lot of good info there!

I think a better rule of thumb is to lube with every tank of gas and every ride in the rain. Forget about cleaning. I do that (using Wurth HHS2000) and my chains last over 40,000 miles.

..Tom
 

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new chain

not sure about any one else i rarely have to adjust my chain its very simple just dont OVER TIGHTEN IT
 

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If you are in the market for a new chain and sprockets, Blair at SV Racing has them to fit your Strom. He is a site supporter, and you can find him on the vendor list. Welcome to our world!
 

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A very dumb question if I may, I am also new to the chain world, I know in my previous chain driven bikes back in the bronze age, the master link could be identified by the link having the little clip thing that could be removed. How does one identify the master link on the chains on the vstrom. I've spun my rear wheel while lubing, or just looking, and they all look the same to me.
 

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The strom comes from the factory with an endless chain. It was put on before the swing arm pivot shaft was installed. There is no master link.

A replacement chain with a riveted master link shows the riveted heads. In any case, when removing, just cut the chain off, or grind off the head of any pin and push it out with the rivet tool.
 

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The strom comes from the factory with an endless chain. It was put on before the swing arm pivot shaft was installed. There is no master link.

A replacement chain with a riveted master link shows the riveted heads. In any case, when removing, just cut the chain off, or grind off the head of any pin and push it out with the rivet tool.
So I am wondering if the folks around here that do a lot of long distance riding carry any extra parts for this, or is it just not common. I don't recall messing with the chain much back in the 60's, but I was young and dumb and didn't worry about much of anything, in fact, I don't recall much of anything from the 60's
 

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So I am wondering if the folks around here that do a lot of long distance riding carry any extra parts for this, or is it just not common. I don't recall messing with the chain much back in the 60's, but I was young and dumb and didn't worry about much of anything, in fact, I don't recall much of anything from the 60's
I carry an air compressor that I can hook up to my battery and a (string type) flat repair kit. I have used the flat kit 5 times on the road. Before I learned how to get chains to last well over 40,000 miles I used the tool kit to tighten a failing chain on the road. Apart from that I have ridden over 307,000 km or about 191,000 miles on the road and haven't needed to do anything else. (Knock wood.)

..Tom
 
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