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What chain wax/lube do you PRIMARILY use?

  • DuPont (Teflon Chain-Saver)

    Votes: 104 32.5%
  • Maxima (Chain Wax)

    Votes: 69 21.6%
  • BelRay (SuperClean Chain Lube)

    Votes: 24 7.5%
  • Tirox (Chain Wax)

    Votes: 6 1.9%
  • Motul brand

    Votes: 19 5.9%
  • Ipone brand

    Votes: 1 0.3%
  • Wurth brand

    Votes: 15 4.7%
  • Motor oil (used/new?)

    Votes: 14 4.4%
  • WD40

    Votes: 10 3.1%
  • (other: please post and specify!)

    Votes: 58 18.1%

  • Total voters
    320
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1.) I still use the original DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Dry, Wax Lubricant as I stocked up before the formula changed. I ride mostly pavement but do some gravel and dirt roads. No trails or off road, at least not on purpose. Rain or shine but no snow or ice.

2.) When touring I lube every evening while the chain is still warm. Otherwise, about every 500 miles and I try to do that too when the chain is still warm. I do not clean the chain; stopped quite a few years ago.

3.) Last chain lasted 23,700 miles and probably had a little more life left in it but the front sprocket was showing signs of hooking and I had a 4,700 mile trip coming up. Stretch was in spec and no signs of kinking.

4.) Chain is a DID 525 ZVMX.

YMMV
 

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I switched last fall to a 50/50 mix of 90wt gear oil/bar oil. I squeeze a few drops at a time on a little sponge on a stick (something I found in a drawer) and simply roll the chain past it. It is way less messy than sprays and I am finding there is actually less fling than lighter spray lubes. So far, the chain is staying clean by itself. It seems more slippery too than heavy gunk-like sprays. I will not be able to do this on trips though, because experience showed me the little bottle does not travel well. But good at home for daily riding. Can't verify, but I suspect a chain would last longer with the sponge application than spray, which can be spotty. I am liking it and it is quick. Only downside is (as of now) it's limited to my garage. For trips, I will revert to Maxima Chain Wax which worked well for me in the past. I clean with diesel a few times a season when using the wax mostly.

I have a DID X-ring with Superlight steel sprockets with about 9,000 miles on them. Not sure how long they ll go.
 

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Use the dupont teflon dry lube (still available at Lowes in Canada, at least in greater Toronto area). Use the spray bottle after approximately every 400km (250 miles) when chain is warm and also after riding in the rain. Use the liquid bottle while traveling longer distances on a daily basis. Clean the chain with kerosene when it gets really dirty (after very dusty roads esp). 30,000km (18,000miles) and still on original chain and sprockets. Look fine.
 

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...

Also: For those of you using ScottOiler/similar auto-oiling systems, what do you think of them vs the manual lubing/waxing method? Are they messy? Expensive to maintain/refill? I've been thinking of trying it out; I've read that they're fantastic for keeping the chain lubed but can be quite messy.
I'm using a Tutoro and like it. How easy they are to refill depends on where you mount the unit and I expect most are the same in that regard.
I think there are distinct advantages over manual spray-can lubing, but they're not a set and forget forever thing either. You have to keep an eye on the applicator tips and tubing and watch for damage depending on how you mount things. You also have to set the feed rate to suit how and where you ride and how much mess you will tolerate. If you park your bike for extended periods you might be better off with one of the sticky lube sprays for long term rust protection. There's nothing stopping you from using both, and using the sticky spray right before you park the bike for winter might be a good idea.
As for cleaning I might wipe the chain down once in a while with an oily rag, but that's it. I'm against any scrubbing that might damage the o/x/z-rings.
 

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I have used the DuPont stuff and some no sling that slung like mad.:headbang: But I also clean my chain with rags and the old motor oil out of the bike first. I am changing my chain and sprockets tomorrow at 32K miles.
 

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I think 80/90 gear oil should be included as it used to be recommended in some Honda (I think Honda) owners manuals. Please dont ask me to prove it but I am convinced they did and I used it. Bike stunk like gear oil all the time though!
 

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informative thread, thank you for sharing.

i have a question to add:

do most lube when the chain is warm?

and if so, do you purposely warm the chain with a ride before you lube?

tia

be well.

rob
In the old days before O and X ring chains, it was standard practice to warm the chain before lubing it. Another common practice was to remove the chain and soak it in warm oil over night, or even put it in an oven on low heat in a bath of oil and "bake" it for awhile. Now, with modern chains, it's not really necessary unless it just makes you feel better about it. The O or X rings permanently seal the internal lube in, so all you really need to do is spray, wipe or drip some lube on the outside do the rollers to reduce friction a little bit.

Now, that being said, when I lube my chain, it's only because I'm on an extended ride and I've stopped for gas or whatever and decide to lube the chain and it's warm because I just finished riding. Hope this helps.
 

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In the old days before O and X ring chains, it was standard practice to warm the chain before lubing it. Another common practice was to remove the chain and soak it in warm oil over night, or even put it in an oven on low heat in a bath of oil and "bake" it for awhile. Now, with modern chains, it's not really necessary unless it just makes you feel better about it. The O or X rings permanently seal the internal lube in, so all you really need to do is spray, wipe or drip some lube on the outside do the rollers to reduce friction a little bit.

Now, that being said, when I lube my chain, it's only because I'm on an extended ride and I've stopped for gas or whatever and decide to lube the chain and it's warm because I just finished riding. Hope this helps.
And what you mentioned is why I highly do not recommend really cleaning a chain, other than simply wiping off with a rag. I like to use the Dupont chain de-greaser and a saturated rag, that is all I clean with.....never scrub, especially with those terrible grunge brushes.
 

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Motorex Road Strong
This lube seems to stick great and and lasts a long time between applications.
Very easy to clean off if you over lube.
Tested it against Belray Super Clean and Blue Tac. Moterex will be the one I will continue to use.
Super clean did not last very long and blue tac was messy and gummed up my clutch pushrod severely.
Hope this info helps someone.

Cheers,
Ray B.
 

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informative thread, thank you for sharing.

i have a question to add:

do most lube when the chain is warm?

and if so, do you purposely warm the chain with a ride before you lube?

tia

be well.

rob
The heat just helps pull the lube under the rollers. Think of it like soldering ,heat up the joint and it wicks up the solder.
 

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Lately I've been using the Honda Pro chain lube which is a teflon/wax type. Works well, I like lighter lubes since I ride on dirt often. I do miss the DuPont dry teflon lube, the yellow motorcycle version they have now doesn't seem the same to me.

Mainly I'm looking for rust prevention and something that doesn't attract too much dirt. The Honda chain lube stays on and yet it's easy to wipe off during cleanings. On pavement the lube lasted over 1,000 miles with at least 4 rain showers I had to ride through. At 1300 miles its still fully coated, but the chain needed cleaning due to dirt build up on the plates, center rollers stayed clean. Pretty good stuff, better than the gooey chain wax IMO. I like many of the Honda lube/cleaning products and it actually cost less at my local bike dealer than a can of DuPont chain lube at Walmart... go figure.
 

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Use the dupont teflon dry lube (still available at Lowes in Canada, at least in greater Toronto area).
If the blue can doesn't have Wax on the label, then it is the new, inadequate formula.

I use Schaeffer's #227 Moly Roller Chain Lube
"Schaeffer's Moly Roller Chain Lube combines the penetrating action of a superior quality penetrating oil with the lubricating ability of molybdenum disulfide - the most slippery substance known. The result is a chain lube that not only penetrates and lubricates, but also will not attract dust."
Schaeffer Oil | Moly Roller Chain Lube, Chain Lubricant
 

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Ride completely on the street, almost never in the rain. I try to warm up the chain first, good excuse to go for a ride. Used to use PJ-1 Black label. It was easy to apply but would sling all over the wheel, etc (previous motorcycle). The only lube I've used on the new Strom is Liquid Performance. I actually use it as a solvent to clean the chain first - spray on and wipe off right away with a rag until the chain is nice and shiny. Then go over it again to saturate the rollers and plates. Don't have a fixed interval but probably about every 400 miles or so. Will do it if I notice the chain getting especially noisy. Haven't gotten enough miles to wear through a chain yet.
 

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Dupont Teflon for me, mainly due to price. I've only put 600 miles on my 2014 DL650, so much too early to tell. I ride year around, rain or shine. During the rainy winter I wipe the chain clean with a rag and use the Dupont spray. Summer I typically go 300 miles. Other bike has 8000 miles on the chain and sprockets with no noticeable wear and has never been adjusted.

The best data so far appears to be from V-Tom.

Oh, and by the way, this is my first post!:thumb up:

Howdy all!!!
 

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I use Honda chain lube with Moly.
That Molly girl is pretty clean. Doesn't fling her stuff all around the back of the bike. And any mess she makes cleans up right quick with a little WD40.

I get more than 20k miles but less than 30k miles out of chains and I use stock style but not endless chains.
 

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I have a scottoiler on this bike, the last one had one too. I replaced my sprockets on the last one early because of an alignment issue, so no idea on mileage.
 

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Kerosene ....and Dry Wax Lubricant

I use mostly Dupont Dry wax lubricant after each time I fill the tank or riding in rain. I plan to try Liquid Wrench Dry wax lubricant next.

However, I still think it is necessary to periodically bathe the chain in Kerosene and I don't think going over it with a Grunge Brush hurts the o-rings during the process. Removing some of the grime and old chain wax may allow the Kerosene to better saturate the O-rings. I do have the bristles of my Grunge Brush trimmed a bit so they slide over the chain nicely, though.

I recall a comparison study on the old VSRI forum before it became virus infected where a guy took some of the more popular cleaner/lubricants(Kerosene, WD-40, mineral sprits, etc.) and soaked chain O-rings by themselves in each of the cleaners to see which caused them to deteriorate. Kerosene was found not only found to be the safest, but also to soften the o-rings the best. It was a well-done study where he soaked them for days and periodically noted the progress and took lots of photos.

My OEM chain has 26,000mi and has not hardly stetched at all. It was noisey yesterday so I did the Kerosene-with-parts-brush-scrub-quickly- with-grunge-brush treatment without any dry wax lubricant and it quieted the chain nicely and removed all of the old wax residue and collected dirt/grime. I didn't even bother to apply any dry wax lubricant. It sat overnight and sounds very quiet today. (Note:I mark my rear wheel with a piece of chalk and have measured 2 1/8 rear tire rotations with my 16T front sprocket is one complete revolution of the chain.)

I think you could just use Kerosene alone on the chain and be fine, but it is not as easy to apply on the road as a spray can of lubricant. I think Kerosene is great for the chain, rollers and o-rings. JMHO.
 

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I have a Scottoiler vSystem on my 2012 DL650 - fairly recently installed, after using ChainWax.

I'm definitely sold on it - so simple, works really well. The vSystem install took me about two hours, which wasn't a big deal. The most annoying part was the tank lift to cut the vacuum line. The only problem I had with it is that I put the dispenser nib to close to the chain and destroyed it - but you can make new ones from the vacuum tubing quite simply, and they supply a couple of spares with the kit anyhow.

You have to keep an eye on the setting to make sure it's not overconsuming oil. I didn't realize that at first and went through the first reservoir really quickly.

It turned out the easiest way to get more oil away from home was to get a Lube Tube, which came with a 250mL bottle. So now I have the installed too, simple to do except that when they tell you that you need to squeeze the air out the tube first, they're not kidding. I didn't, and wound up with a fountain of oil!

Otherwise it keeps the chain nice and slick and clean - which is far simpler than having to carry kerosene whenever I go out on multiday trips.
 
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