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Discussion Starter #1
dealer said my chain is too loose, how do i know how tight it should be. got the cotter pin out and axle bolt loose and am working on the tension bolt. do i pull off the sprocket or where the chain sags in the middle to test tension. thanx. jon, 03 k1000
 

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You'll want to push the chain up at the midpoint of the front and rear sprockets until it starts to get tight. If you go by the owner's manual, this should be done with the bike on the side stand. I usually adjust to the loose side of the spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
do i adj. the tension bolts on both sides of the wheel? i dont have a manual yet, it's on order... thanx, jon
 

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Yes, adjust both sides. Ususally it is better to measure the same distance on both sides with a steel rule but the swing arm marks appear to line up fairly well. This is imperative to keep the chain/wheel lined up. I think the measurement for chain tension is .8-1.2 inches. I also go on the looser side.
 

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Just did this last night and you are correct, .8 - 1.2 inches (for the 650).


dan-c said:
Yes, adjust both sides. Ususally it is better to measure the same distance on both sides with a steel rule but the swing arm marks appear to line up fairly well. This is imperative to keep the chain/wheel lined up. I think the measurement for chain tension is .8-1.2 inches. I also go on the looser side.
Mike
Tampa, Fl
DL650K5
 

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Discussion Starter #6
sorry to be so dense, but am i measuring the length of the tension bolts with the metal ruler ? how do i know both sides are adj the same. thanx again. it would help if i had a maual but wont get it til next week some time. meanwhile i'm riding a few hundred miles this weekend and i want to be safe. jon
 

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Try here;

http://www.stromtrooper.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=511&highlight=chain

You only need the ruler to measure the slack in the chain. The index marks on the swing arms (facing out on the rear of each swing arm) should be the same foe both sides. If this isn't clear let me know and I'll post a picture.

Mike
Tampa, FL
DL650K5


jet7271 said:
sorry to be so dense, but am i measuring the length of the tension bolts with the metal ruler ? how do i know both sides are adj the same. thanx again. it would help if i had a maual but wont get it til next week some time. meanwhile i'm riding a few hundred miles this weekend and i want to be safe. jon
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i found the hash marks, much easier now. thanks for all your expertise. ride on! jon
 

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Discussion Starter #9
one more question, don't have a torque wrench yet, will borrow or buy later, but for the short term, i assume it's safer to err on side of overtightening instead of under, the axle nut? it was hard to get off, so i cranked on it with ratchet and pipe extender. btw mike the link to the chain tensioning adj page helped lots. thanks again... jon
 

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I like to error on the side of correct :lol:

Over tightening can be just as bad as loose. Too tight and you could end up with no threads.

Make sure the toque wrench can handle the load the read axel nut is tightened to 100 N-m (72.5 Ib-ft) on the 650.

I guess if you really wanted to you could rig up a home made toque wrench. Take a long pipe and measure out to say 7.25 feet and hang a 10 pound weight at that point (7.25 ft x 10 lbs = 72.5 ft-lbs) while the pipe is horizontal. You may have to push down on the pipe a LITTLE to overcome initial friction. Find a kid that weighs 72.5 lbs and stand on the end of a one foot wrench, etc...

After thinking about this I've come back to edit this. Unless you can remember your calculus, don't use a long pipe and a weight. You need to factor in the weight of the pipe too.You'd need to intergrate the weight over the length of the lever arm.

Mike
Tampa, FL
DL650K5
 

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Harbor Freight usually has a 1/2" drive torque wrench for around $20. It's not top of the line but it will get the job done. If you don't have a torque wrench, I would just tighten it very snug with a typical 1/2" socket wrench. Getting it tight with a bar on the wrench is probably too tight.

I actually stripped my axle nut on the third chain adjustment but I'm almost certain that it was cross threaded from the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
none of my friends could find their torque wrnches, will go to harbor freight and pick one up. rode 350 miles this weekend and everything seemed fine. thanks for your input. jon
 
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torque wrench

In relation to this thread, I am a new owner and going to purchase a torque wrench to get comfortable with doing my own adjusting. What are some recommendations that work good for this bike and hopefully portable to take with on trips. Recommended sizes or brands?
Thanks
Lance
 

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Re: torque wrench

Ghostdog said:
In relation to this thread, I am a new owner and going to purchase a torque wrench to get comfortable with doing my own adjusting. What are some recommendations that work good for this bike and hopefully portable to take with on trips. Recommended sizes or brands?
Thanks
Lance
I have 3 and would like a 4th. SnapOn is very good and the one I haven't bought yet. I have a Husky clicker from Home Depot 10-150 ft./lb that I really like and use the most often. You can do almost anything on the bike with this. For very low torque I have a Craftsman clicker that does like 25-250 in./lb. The last one I have is a simple Craftsman beam type that is only about $20. The good thing about the beam type vs. a clicker is it never needs to be calibrated other than bending the tab and you can do that yourself. The bad thing about the beam type is you don't have as much control and you need to be looking at the gauge while your are applying the torque. A word of caution: I've had a couple of Craftsman torque wrenches give up the ghost early in their life and they are NOT covered by the lifetime warranty like other Craftsman tools. IIRC the Husky does have a lifetime warranty and just seems to be of a better quality. Make sure you always set the torque wrenches back to their lowest setting and don't go below this. You will find they will hold their calibration longer if you do this. 8)
 
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