Suzuki has to state chain slack while on the side stand as a main stand is an optional accessory, and as you state this can vary a little depending on bike sag.
However, some here have checked both side and main stand measurements and say that any difference is minimal.
If you have a main stand try it.

Putting the bike in gear and rolling it back to remove all slack from the upper run is not recommended. In neutral, as you push down on the lower run the countershaft sprocket will turn to remove the slack from the upper run.

Incidentally, although Suzuki recommends 20-30mm chain slack (while on the side stand) experience here has shown that 30-40mm is a far safer recommendation. As a chain ages the slack at one point can vary from another.
Far better a little loose than a little tight.

 

Suzuki has to state chain slack while on the side stand as a main stand is an optional accessory, and as you state this can vary a little depending on bike sag.
However, some here have checked both side and main stand measurements and say that any difference is minimal.
If you have a main stand try it.

Putting the bike in gear and rolling it back to remove all slack from the upper run is not recommended. In neutral, as you push down on the lower run the countershaft sprocket will turn to remove the slack from the upper run.

Incidentally, although Suzuki recommends 20-30mm chain slack (while on the side stand) experience here has shown that 30-40mm is a far safer recommendation. As a chain ages the slack at one point can vary from another.
Far better a little loose than a little tight.

This is what i was missing. Thank you!

I should have known that keeping the bike in neutral and moving the chain up and down will allow the countershaft sprocket to freely rotate giving me the answer I am looking for.

I know I am being way too technical but thought I might check in anyway. I'll put the bike in neutral and check the slack and just not worry. If I am "only" at 30mm I'll let it ride as the bike is brand new and yet to be ridden and a little bit of stretch is to be expected the first few hundred miles.

I have had the bike for over a month but some work matters and scorching hot weather along with wildfire smoke has delayed me; not to mention getting all the accessories I wanted. Some of them had to come out of Europe as US suppliers did not have what I was after. It is all good now, first rides are Monday and Tuesday and hopefully a multi-day trip to Canada towards the end of the month. Fingers crossed the borders open.

NC

 

If you are using raising or lowering links make sue to set the chain slack toward the loose end of the range.

 

Adjusting a chain is not that technical. Not rocket science. Close is good as the tension varies contantly with the load on suspension. If the tension was that much of a deal it would have active tensioner on it. Chains are very forgiving.

 

I like that RR. If I understand correctly, With the droop set correctly on a lowered bike, the swing arm would be flatter in relation to the pivot point. Therefore it would require less chain movement to meet the requirements of wheel travel.

 

Touche!