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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone give me some tips from experience on the V about force on chain when checking slack? I am not new to motorcycles or chain adjustment, but i am new to this bike. I have found each bike has a sweet spot. Following the manual, it doesn't specify whether to push down and up, just up, etc, or with how much force. My old bikes repair manual stated how much slack when hanging a weight. Not that i did that every time, but it was a starting point until i just knew it was right.
 

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For the last 15 years (since I started riding again) I have always believed that the links were stronger than my fingers. On the side stand, not the the center stand, I push down with my left index finger until the chain dosen't move anymore. I press upward with the left thumb until the chain is tight.

For the Vee the specs say 20-30 mm slack, between 20 mm and 35 IMO is great.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i adjusted very similar to you, probably with not as much force as you, but moderate both ways. It just seems much tighter than other chains i have adjusted. It seems especially tight on the upper part of the chain. Does the V just like tighter chains? It is brand new, only 200 miles on the oem chain, well lubricated.
 

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Moderate force is a good way to go. If you go out of spec, slightly too loose is better than slightly too tight. Using full force to measure slack can put you in the "too tight" range.
 

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i adjusted very similar to you, probably with not as much force as you, but moderate both ways. It just seems much tighter than other chains i have adjusted. It seems especially tight on the upper part of the chain. Does the V just like tighter chains? It is brand new, only 200 miles on the oem chain, well lubricated.
A new chain is rigid until broken in. I have never checked the tension on the upper part of the chain. If in doubt about the chain being to tight simply give it a bit more slack ie 25 mm to 35mm instead of the recommended 20-30 (Vee). Your middle finger is not as strong as your index or thumb, maybe use it to tension the chain. I get good mileage from my chains in the 30,000 to 40,000 km range. When they start to kink I change them. My preference in chains is DID.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #7
when i say brand new chain, its the oem chain, new bike. It seemed a bit loose by factory settings. However, tightening by the manual it seems a little tight. The only variable can be how much force is pressed on the chain. Maybe ill just reset it looser. Anybody with a factory repair manual that might explain the tightening procedure differently?
 

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when i say brand new chain, its the oem chain, new bike. It seemed a bit loose by factory settings. However, tightening by the manual it seems a little tight. The only variable can be how much force is pressed on the chain. Maybe ill just reset it looser. Anybody with a factory repair manual that might explain the tightening procedure differently?
Checked service manual. It's pretty much identical to owner's manual when it comes to chain adjustment. 20-30mm of slack at the mid point. Nothing about how much force should be used to measure it. If you're really that concerned about it, why not take pics or video of the chain in all the way up and all the way down position and post it here?
 

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I use my bike key or the top of my fingers to give it a little jiggle. I think the idea, in my mind, is that it moves freely only 0.5" up or 0.5" down (1" slack total).
Either way it seems that it only really stretches the first thousand miles or so then it's good.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 

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A loose chain is better than a tight chain. I tend to adjust mine to where when I push it up with a bit of tension, it touches the bottom of the swingarm. Notice I said "with tension". It should now be able to slap the swingarm.

If you adjust it too tight, you can screw up your output shaft bearings. No bueno!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I readjusted the chain to loosen it up a bit. Had my wife sit on it whose lighter than me and it was tighter than I would like. It’s at the very top of the range, a little out if you force it. Out of all the bikes I’ve had the adjustment on this is pretty temperamental. A 1/32 makes a HUGE difference, I chock it up to new factory chain. I’ll keep an eye on it for the first 500 miles.
 

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I keep mine about 1-1/4" to 1-1/2". As has been noted the tension increases as the suspension is compressed until front and rear sprockets and swingarm pivot are in a line. Like others said, just push up and down with a finger and moderate pressure, you don't want to go gorilla on it. I have also seen recommendations to rotate the wheel a little and check slack at several points. If measurements are different adjust at the tightest point. Probably not an issue on a new chain, though. I guess it goes without saying (but I will anyway) that you measure to the same point on the chain when pushing up and down, eg, to the same point on the bottom edge of the chain for both measurements. And be sure to recheck the slack after tightening the axle nut, as it can move slightly when tightening. Would be a good place to also mention to put some anti-seize on the axle nut and reduce the torque (I think 15% -20% to compensate for the lubricant) to prevent galling of the axle and nut.
 

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I have also seen recommendations to rotate the wheel a little and check slack at several points. If measurements are different adjust at the tightest point.
Spot on! All the chain-driven bikes I've had would develop looser/tighter spots, over time. This is where having a center stand or pit stand is very beneficial. Only takes ~30 seconds to find the tightest spot in the chain and that is where the measurement should be taken.
 

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I use my bike key or the top of my fingers to give it a little jiggle. I think the idea, in my mind, is that it moves freely only 0.5" up or 0.5" down (1" slack total).
Either way it seems that it only really stretches the first thousand miles or so then it's good.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Way too tight. A tight chain is likely to cause a failure of the primary shaft bearing.

Much better to have a loose chain then tight.

People way over think this. Find a mid point on the swingarm, chain should just touch when pushed up from the bottom, bike on sidestand.

When you sit on the bike the chain gets tighter that's why you want slack available.
 

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For those who prefer a visual aid, there are a good number of youtube videos, like
. I hear you say thats not a V-Strom.
Then for V-Strom related search "v-strom chain adjustment", for example,
,
 
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