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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Pressed and riveted a DID 525VX chain. I'm never 100% sure if the flare is good enough without overdoing it. Since the pin is a tight fit in the plate to start with, any flare should be enough, right? I cranked on the rivet tool pretty good, I think it will work.
http://www.moto-dude.com/vstrom/chain7.jpg
 

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Pressed and riveted a DID 525VX chain. I'm never 100% sure if the flare is good enough without overdoing it. Since the pin is a tight fit in the plate to start with, any flare should be enough, right? I cranked on the rivet tool pretty good, I think it will work.
That looks pretty good. Are they both the same diameter? Does the link move freely?

I would measure mine for you, but I am on a Tenere now........:wink2:
 

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I use the D.I.D. KM500 Chain Tool, and with it you simply cant over-flare it. To get it into peining mode, tighten the tool 'til it stops...and DONE, a perfect inverted bowl shape every time. The same tool doesnt allow pressing the side plate on too far either, as it has a measured channel that serves as a stop. This stop provides the correct protrusion for the subsequent flaring operation.
 

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As mentioned, the side plate is a press fit, so any small amount of flare will be wider than the hole in the plate. As for cranking on it "really hard", I tried with an old link to see how much it would take to break it. Cranked on it with a wrench till my hand hurt, still did not break the pin.
 

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The easiest and best way is to measure the flare with digital calipers. They can be had cheap at many places including Harbor Freight. Pin diameter(you can measure that before flaring) and final flare diameter should be published someplace in the chain paperwork or on line.

A under flared pin is weak since it does not compress the side plate and provides too little of surface area to hold the link in place. An over flared pin can split or crack then later break off an let go.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That looks pretty good. Are they both the same diameter? Does the link move freely?

I would measure mine for you, but I am on a Tenere now........:wink2:
Haha, show off. How I wish there was a shaft version of the Strom.

Yes, it moves freely, and they are not identical but fairly close.


I use the D.I.D. KM500 Chain Tool, and with it you simply cant over-flare it. To get it into peining mode, tighten the tool 'til it stops...and DONE, a perfect inverted bowl shape every time. The same tool doesnt allow pressing the side plate on too far either, as it has a measured channel that serves as a stop. This stop provides the correct protrusion for the subsequent flaring operation.
I wish I had known about that tool before. I have the Motion Pro PBR, it works pretty well but does not have a "stop".
 

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Scorch, I have 2 of these DID Chain tools, use them all the time. A couple of things: 1) If I am replacing the chain I dont use the tool to push out a pin--I use a pneumatic cutoff wheel to slice through both side plates of a link and the chain is off in 45 seconds tops. If you need to reuse the chain, then I'll grind the pin ends flush with the side plate and use the tool's pusher pin to separate the chain. A new DID master link, and I'm back in business. In both instances I lock the rear tire with a wood block through the spokes and against the swingarm, transmission in neutral, then loosen the countershaft sprocket nut. If you have a 1 1/16" wrench or a large Crescent wrench and a 1/2" drive 19mm(3/4") socket and ratchet, youre there.
The 1st couple of times you really have to pay attention as to where the pin will come out, nd where to place the pin heads while pressing on the side plate. The "A" and "B" positions and whether the tool is right-side up or upside-down are the keys to this.
But once youve mastered it, it's literally a 5-minute operation. Here ya GO!
 

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Almost all the chain riveting tools do have a stop, on mine, it's in the design of the riveting pin. The end of the pin is a half dome and then a flat lip that is wider than the dome and the same diameter as the body of the pin. You press until the lip of the pin around the dome is flush and that's your gauge.
 
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DID specs

16a. FLARE DIMENSIONS
05.4mm to 5.6mm .............520V
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................525V
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................530V
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................532ZLV
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520ERV3
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520ZVM2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................525ZVM2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................530ZVM2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520ZVM-X
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520VX2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520VM
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................525VM2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................530VM
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520ATV
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520VT2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520NZ
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................525NZ
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................530NZ
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520DZ2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520MX
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520ERT2
5.7mm to 6.0mm................*525ZVM-X, 530ZVM-X, 525VX & 530VX
*Note: Make sure that the Cutting pin has a groove if you are riveting the 525ZVM-X, 530ZVM-X,
525VX and 530VX chains. These


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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I would paint them fuschia to give them even more flare!
 
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Discussion Starter #11
DID specs

16a. FLARE DIMENSIONS
05.4mm to 5.6mm .............520V
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................525V
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................530V
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................532ZLV
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520ERV3
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520ZVM2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................525ZVM2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................530ZVM2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520ZVM-X
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520VX2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520VM
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................525VM2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................530VM
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520ATV
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520VT2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520NZ
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................525NZ
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................530NZ
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520DZ2
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520MX
5.5 to 5.8mm.......................520ERT2
5.7mm to 6.0mm................*525ZVM-X, 530ZVM-X, 525VX & 530VX
*Note: Make sure that the Cutting pin has a groove if you are riveting the 525ZVM-X, 530ZVM-X,
525VX and 530VX chains. These
Ok, thanks for that, so mine is pretty close, I feel better now.



Almost all the chain riveting tools do have a stop, on mine, it's in the design of the riveting pin. The end of the pin is a half dome and then a flat lip that is wider than the dome and the same diameter as the body of the pin. You press until the lip of the pin around the dome is flush and that's your gauge.
Ah, I see, yeah, that makes sense...but why do so many sites caution the user from overflaring the rivet??
 

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If you use the right tool you dont need to measure anything. The peining will be machine-perfect each and every time.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Because you can crack the flare and/or bind the link.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
How do you crack the flare if the tool has a built in stop?
 
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