I'm installing new chain and not sure I rivetted it sufficiently. I'm using mikesxs tool. I now see traces of riveter on connecting plate, so I guess this is about as far as I can go...
I'll try to post few photos - does it look right to you?
Thanks a lot!
tmcgee is correct. Most of us who have done our own, FIRST chain, usually will "crush" the link. I did that and my first chain lasted about 3,000 miles. I have gotten pretty good at it now. I think I just installed my forth or fifth set of sprockets and new chain.
From MotionPro's website:
"The amount of flare of a rivet–type master link varies among chain manufacturers. Some specify as little as 0.006” and generally no more than 0.028”. This is a very small amount of flare."
This picture (below) is also from their website. I generally use a micrometer to measure the diameter of the "flare" so that I can obtain what the chain manufacturer recommends and to be sure I don't over compress the pin.
The chain did not fall apart after my 400+ test ride.
But I checked the link again - and it's not as smooth as other links, there's some initial stickiness when I try to twist the chain at master link. It's not very stiff, but it's definitely present.
What's the best course of action? Replace master link with a new one?
(I also replaced both sprockets; would not want tight link to damage them.)
I had a similar issue with the Mike's XS tool. I had an EK chain that came with spacers. Unfortunately, with the spacers in, the tool wouldn't allow me to sufficiently push the side plate on, so I removed the spacers before pushing the side plate on and mushrooming the rivets. This left me with a master link that was slightly "sticky" (didn't move as freely as the other links). I decided to ignore it, and I currently have about 4k miles on my chain with no obvious issues.
I don't have the Mike's XS tool in front of me at the moment, but from my memory I think the problem was that the holes in the back/non-moving side of the tool that are designed to support the rivets are drilled too deeply (or I suppose that the rivets on the EK chain could be shorter than other chains). This means that as you're pushing the side plate on and then mushrooming the rivets, the rivets are free to get pushed farther "back" than they were originally. With the rivets pushed farther back, not enough of the rivets sticks out through the side plate that you're pressing on if the spacer things are in place, which was why I removed the spacers included with the new chain. My plan is to put some sort of epoxy/liquid metal stuff in those holes to make them just a little shallower before the next time I replace a chain.
A forum community dedicated to all Suzuki Strom owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, troubleshooting, purchasing, reviews, accessories, maintenance, and more!